吃在首尔: 8/28 - 9/4/2026

lin wang

<p class="ql-block">在首尔几天尝试了不同餐饮,有意思,值得记下来与我的吃货亲朋们分享一下首尔/韩国的饮食文化。</p> <p class="ql-block">头一晚刚到达,入住在明洞 (Myeongdong) 的Sky Park Hotel. </p><p class="ql-block">明洞是首尔主要的购物、美食和旅游区之一。</p><p class="ql-block">傍晚时分,主要步行街上会摆满小吃摊,供应烤奶酪串、鸡蛋面包(gyeran-bbang)、炒年糕(tteokbokki)和糖饼(hotteok)等美食。</p> <p class="ql-block">周围几条街都是摆摊档的,人头涌涌,热闹非凡。</p> <p class="ql-block">今晚我们就享受一下首尔著名的街头美食,吃大排挡,边走边看边吃吧😋😀</p> <p class="ql-block">著名街头美食:傍晚时分,主要步行街上会摆满小吃摊,供应烤奶酪串、鸡蛋面包(gyeran-bbang)、炒年糕(tteokbokki)和糖饼(hotteok)等美食。</p> <p class="ql-block">第二天去参观皇宮</p><p class="ql-block">地铁站出来就光到了皇家博物馆。旁边cafe店的点心广告排挺诱人垂涎三尺。所以参加完博物馆和观看了changing guards 后,就想先去尝尝。</p><p class="ql-block">店里坐滿人,一位在看书的女士给我们腾出了位置在同一餐桌坐下。</p><p class="ql-block">这里的cafe店都是自己到电子屏幕上点买所要的饮食。排队后,第一次点起来正真有些不知所措。花了好一阵,在一服务员和后面排队的顾客帮助下,终于点买好了。</p> <p class="ql-block">天气很热,我要了杯蓝梅酸奶smoothy,给为民兰了杯蜜糖桃子smoothy。</p><p class="ql-block">我点了小号的,可沒见店里其他人有比我们更大的杯子。</p> <p class="ql-block">喝一口这水果饮料,感觉比透心凉还凉!😶‍🌫️🤖</p><p class="ql-block">我前后才喝了几口,不到四分之一吧。</p><p class="ql-block">不久两人都急着要上厕所了。🤭 老人渣受不了凉?! 🤪</p> <p class="ql-block">cheese cake</p><p class="ql-block">Yummy😋</p> <p class="ql-block">忘了先照个相,也忘了叫什么。原形像waffle,中间是ice cream。旁边围着五六粒不同颜色中间有馅的糯米小球。</p><p class="ql-block">原形挺精致诱人的,切开后破相了。😜</p> <p class="ql-block">晚餐想吃面条。就在北村(五点关门,沒看成)一看似有面条的小馆坐下。</p><p class="ql-block">先上些韩国泡菜。其中少不了的Kimchi 不太辣。</p> <p class="ql-block">餐牌全是韩文,看图点鸳鸯吧。</p><p class="ql-block">结果是一个冷面,一个带饭的牛肉汤。没青菜,牛肉不少。</p><p class="ql-block">还不错。</p> <p class="ql-block">8/30: DMZ Tour</p> <p class="ql-block">中午跟团进了个自助餐店</p><p class="ql-block">好像是每人15000,$11左右吧,味道不错。我喜欢拿那seaweed包饭莱吃。韩国餐少见青菜,多是豆芽。</p> <p class="ql-block">回到城里已不早了,也不饿。晚餐就随便在地摊上买点儿吃的吧。</p> <p class="ql-block">8/31: 下雨天,逛国家博物馆后,到Starfield Library后,在mall里转来转去,想到一个五星的<span style="font-size:18px;">餐馆,走累了,就进了家火锅店(坐下才知道是火锅)。</span></p> <p class="ql-block">一个牛肉(左边的),一个鸡(右边的,半只鸡在汤里,另再给一点儿牛肉)</p><p class="ql-block">小碟/盘子自己加酱料及kemchi</p> <p class="ql-block">终于有青菜了,可借才<span style="font-size:18px;">一丁点儿!</span></p> <p class="ql-block">肉太多了,好饱!</p><p class="ql-block">还好回酒店要走走,坐地铁(来首尔怕鸡同鸭讲,不敢叫车或打的,学会了买单程票坐地铁),有时间消化一下。</p> <p class="ql-block">9/1: 还是下雨天,参观南山村(Namsangol Hanok Village)和南山(Namsan)</p> <p class="ql-block">中午在南山村公园一小亭子野餐: 桃子,韩国产的大绿葡萄,坚果和饼干。还最后吃完了烟台早餐时服务员阿姨让我们拿的几块小甜饼。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">晚餐到附近 rating 挺高的黄金牧场吃韩国烤肉</p> <p class="ql-block">先上小菜</p><p class="ql-block">韩国餐馆一般都会给瓶冷水</p> <p class="ql-block">给你戴上围裙</p><p class="ql-block">很喜欢那些包饭吃的莱叶子</p> <p class="ql-block">要了一份烤牛肉。</p><p class="ql-block">我们年纪大,牙齿不太好,就选了较嫩,软的牛肉,牛健?</p> <p class="ql-block">服务员帮烤,剪牛肉</p> <p class="ql-block">另一份牛骨汤面,骨头带着大块大块牛肉,吃不完。</p> <p class="ql-block">还要了个海鲜煎饼。</p> <p class="ql-block">饼太大,油也太多了。吃不完。</p> <p class="ql-block">吃得很开心😋😀</p> <p class="ql-block">牛肉挺嫩,好吃。</p> <p class="ql-block">在韩国吃牛肉多,探讨一下牛肉吧。</p> <p class="ql-block">一导游问:</p><p class="ql-block">两种牛: 一种滿山/地跑,户外放牧的牛,另一种关起来,只吃喝睡的牛,哪种好吃?</p><p class="ql-block">第一种健康,第二种好吃,fat,marbling! 😋</p><p class="ql-block">据一导游介绍吃牛肉的选择: 母牛比公牛好,没生过牛仔的更好。听起来有点儿惨忍。😉</p><p class="ql-block">问他韩牛好还是日本的好,他回答是韩国的好。</p><p class="ql-block">问AI。From Gemini :</p><p class="ql-block">Neither is universally "better"—it comes down to whether you prefer extreme melt-in-your-mouth richness or a balanced, deeply savory beef flavor.</p><p class="ql-block">Japan’s flagship Wagyu (such as Kobe, Matsusaka, or Miyazaki) is famous for its intense intramuscular fat (marbling). High-grade A5 Wagyu can consist of up to 50% or more fat, giving it a buttery texture that literally dissolves on your tongue. Because it is so rich, it is traditionally enjoyed in tiny, precise portions, such as thin slices in shabu-shabu or small griddled bites.</p><p class="ql-block">Korea’s premiere native cattle breed, Hanwoo, occupies a middle ground between American Angus and Japanese Wagyu. It typically features a fat content of roughly 20% to 30%, delivering significantly more marbling and tenderness than Western beef while retaining a robust, deeply beefy chew and high oleic acid profile. This balance makes Hanwoo ideal for tabletop Korean BBQ, where you can eat larger quantities without feeling weighed down by excessive fat.</p><p class="ql-block">| Feature | Japanese Wagyu (A5) | Korean Hanwoo |</p><p class="ql-block">|---|---|---|</p><p class="ql-block">| Primary Trait | Maximum marbling, silky, melt-in-mouth richness | Balanced fat and beef flavor, rich yet savory |</p><p class="ql-block">| Fat Ratio | Very High (~40%–50%+) | Moderate–High (~20%–30%) |</p><p class="ql-block">| Best Serving Style | Small portions, thin slices, lightly seared teppanyaki | Tabletop BBQ grates, charcoal grilling over multiple courses |</p><p class="ql-block">| Availability | Widely exported globally | Very rare outside Korea due to strict export limits & high domestic demand |</p><p class="ql-block">If you want a luxurious, decadent, "one-bite wonder" experience, Japan’s Wagyu takes the prize. If you want a steak or BBQ cut that strikes a sweet spot between intense tenderness and rich beef flavor you can enjoy throughout a full meal, Korea’s Hanwoo is hard to beat.</p><p class="ql-block">中文释译:</p><p class="ql-block">两者并无绝对的“优劣之分”——关键在于您更偏爱入口即化的极致浓郁口感,还是风味均衡、层次丰富的牛肉。</p><p class="ql-block">日本的旗舰级和牛(例如神户、松阪或宫崎)以其丰富的肌内脂肪(大理石纹)而闻名。A5级顶级和牛​​的脂肪含量可高达50%甚至更高,使其拥有如黄油般柔滑的口感,入口即化。由于其风味浓郁,传统上人们会以小份量享用,例如涮涮锅中的薄片或铁板小块。</p><p class="ql-block">韩国的顶级本土牛种韩牛,介于美国安格斯牛和日本和牛之间。其脂肪含量通常在20%至30%左右,相比西方牛肉,在保持浓郁牛肉风味和高油酸含量的同时,拥有更丰富的大理石纹和更嫩的口感。 这种均衡的口感使韩牛成为韩式桌面烤肉的理想之选,您可以尽情享用大份量,而不会感到脂肪过多带来的负担。</p><p class="ql-block">特点:日本和牛(A5级)韩国韩牛主要特征:油花分布均匀,口感丝滑,入口即化;脂肪与牛肉风味平衡,浓郁鲜美;脂肪比例:极高(约40%–50%以上)中高(约20%–30%);最佳食用方式:小份量,薄片,轻煎铁板烧;桌面烤架,炭火多道菜式烤制;供应情况:广泛出口全球;由于严格的出口限制和国内需求旺盛,韩国以外地区非常稀少。</p><p class="ql-block">如果您想要体验奢华、极致、一口惊艳的美味,日本和牛无疑是最佳选择。如果您想要一块牛排或烤肉,它既拥有极致的嫩度,又兼具浓郁的牛肉风味,让您在享用整顿大餐的同时,也能尽情享受,那么韩国韩牛绝对是您的不二之选。</p> <p class="ql-block">我们挺喜欢日本的和牛(三月份曾在日本东京及草津温泉享用过)。</p><p class="ql-block">加点来自Gemini 的信息吧。</p> <p class="ql-block">Wagyu stands apart because of its extreme intramuscular fat (marbling) and unique genetics. Wagyu cattle were historically draft animals bred for physical endurance, which led them to naturally store fat evenly inside muscle tissue rather than as a thick layer on the outside.</p><p class="ql-block">Why Wagyu Tastes So Exceptional</p><p class="ql-block"> * Melt-in-Your-Mouth Texture: The fat in Wagyu has a low melting point (around 77°F to 82°F / 25°C to 28°C), meaning it literally melts at human body temperature as soon as you put it in your mouth.</p><p class="ql-block"> * High Monounsaturated Fat: Wagyu fat is packed with oleic acid (the same healthy fat found in olive oil), giving it a sweet, buttery finish rather than a greasy aftertaste.</p><p class="ql-block"> * Intense Umami Aroma: Cooking Wagyu releases unique aromatic compounds (known as "Wagyu beef aroma") similar to coconut and peaches, enhancing the savory meat flavor.</p><p class="ql-block">How Wagyu Cattle Are Raised and Fed</p><p class="ql-block">Creating this level of marbling requires a strictly controlled diet and a long, stress-free lifetime:</p><p class="ql-block"> * Pasture Phase (0–10 Months): Calves spend their first year nursing and grazing on pasture grass to build strong bone structure and healthy organs.</p><p class="ql-block"> * High-Energy Grain Diet (10–30+ Months): Once fully grown, cattle are moved to farms for a long fattening period—often lasting 600 to 700 days (nearly double the timeline of standard beef). Their diet consists of:</p><p class="ql-block"> * Custom Grain Blends: Rice straw, steamed corn, barley, soybean meal, and wheat bran. Rice straw is critical because it aids digestion and helps yield white, clean-tasting fat.</p><p class="ql-block"> * Clean Fresh Water: Farmers often supply spring or pure mineral water to maintain liver health during the heavy feeding regime.</p><p class="ql-block"> * Low-Stress Living Environment: Stress causes adrenaline releases that burn fat and toughen muscle. To prevent this, Wagyu cattle are raised in quiet barns with small herd sizes, individual monitoring, constant ventilation, and clean bedding.</p><p class="ql-block">(Contrary to popular myths, everyday Wagyu cattle are not routinely given beer or daily massages—massage is only used occasionally on small-scale farms to relieve muscle tension in tight stalls.)</p> <p class="ql-block">中文翻译:</p><p class="ql-block">和牛之所以与众不同,在于其极高的肌内脂肪分布(大理石纹)和独特的基因。和牛历史上曾是役畜,因其耐力强而培育,这使得它们自然而然地将脂肪均匀地储存在肌肉组织内部,而不是像其他肉类那样在外部形成厚厚的脂肪层。</p><p class="ql-block">和牛为何如此美味?</p><p class="ql-block">入口即化的口感:和牛脂肪的熔点很低(约 25°C 至 28°C),这意味着它入口即化,几乎与人体体温融为一体。</p><p class="ql-block">高单不饱和脂肪:和牛脂肪富含油酸(与橄榄油中相同的健康脂肪),使其口感香甜顺滑,而非油腻。</p><p class="ql-block">浓郁的鲜味:烹饪和牛会释放出独特的芳香化合物(被称为“和牛牛肉香气”),类似于椰子和桃子的香气,从而增强了牛肉的鲜美滋味。</p><p class="ql-block"> 和牛的饲养方式</p><p class="ql-block">要达到如此高的油花水平,需要严格控制的饮食和漫长而无压力的生活环境:</p><p class="ql-block">牧场阶段(0-10个月):小牛出生后的第一年以母乳喂养和牧草为生,以构建强健的骨骼和健康的器官。</p><p class="ql-block">高能量谷物饲料阶段(10-30个月以上):成年后,牛会被转移到农场进行长期的育肥——通常持续600至700天(几乎是普通牛肉育肥周期的两倍)。它们的饲料包括:</p><p class="ql-block">定制谷物混合物:稻草、蒸玉米、大麦、豆粕和麦麸。稻草至关重要,因为它有助于消化,并有助于生产出洁白、口感纯净的脂肪。</p><p class="ql-block">洁净的饮用水:农场主通常会提供泉水或纯净的矿泉水,以在高强度饲喂期间维持牛的肝脏健康。</p><p class="ql-block"> 低压力的生活环境:压力会导致肾上腺素释放,从而燃烧脂肪并使肌肉变得僵硬。为了避免这种情况,和牛饲养在安静的牛舍中,牛群规模较小,并进行个体监测、持续通风和使用清洁的垫料。</p><p class="ql-block">(与普遍的误解相反,和牛并非每天都喝啤酒或接受按摩——按摩仅在小型农场偶尔使用,以缓解牛舍狭小空间内的肌肉紧张。)</p> <p class="ql-block">这篇文章是关于韩国美食的,也来看看韩牛的信息吧。</p> <p class="ql-block">中译文:</p><p class="ql-block">韩牛(Hanwoo)的生产结合了韩国传统农业技术与高科技、受政府监管的育种计划,旨在培育出最适合餐桌炭火烧烤的优质牛肉。</p><p class="ql-block">1. 育种与基因筛选</p><p class="ql-block">本土血统:韩牛(*Bos taurus coreanae*)是一种本土黄毛牛品种,在20世纪60年代转向专门的肉牛生产之前,曾作为役用牲畜长达2000多年。</p><p class="ql-block">国家种牛登记制度:韩国政府通过国立畜产科学院严格管控血统。只有经认证的优良种公牛才会被选用于人工授精,从而在不牺牲肌肉质感的前提下,稳步提升牛肉的大理石花纹(油花)潜力。</p><p class="ql-block">2. 饲养策略与饮食阶段:整个饲养周期长达28至30个月,通过精心设计的饮食方案,平衡脂肪沉积与浓郁的牛肉风味:</p><p class="ql-block">犊牛期(0–6个月):犊牛饮用母乳,并辅以高蛋白开食料及稻草,以促进胃部的健康发育。</p><p class="ql-block">生长期(6–14个月):牛只食用高粗纤维饲料(干草、牧草和稻草),以构建强健的骨骼和内脏机能。</p><p class="ql-block">育肥期(14–30个月):牛只转为食用高能量精饲料,成分包括玉米、小麦、大麦、豆粕和稻草。</p><p class="ql-block">发酵饲料(TMR):许多优质韩牛养殖场使用全混合日粮(TMR),其中包含发酵后的农业副产品——如米酒糟、蘑菇培养基质、柑橘皮和松针。发酵饲料中的益生菌有助于改善肠道健康,并赋予牛肉在烧烤时特有的甘甜与坚果香气。</p><p class="ql-block">3. 饲养环境与动物福利</p><p class="ql-block">小规模生态养殖:大多数韩牛养殖场为家庭经营,存栏量通常在50至100头以下。牛只饲养在整洁宽敞的室内外结合牛舍中,地面铺设锯末或稻壳作为垫料。</p><p class="ql-block">低应激管理:养殖场通过使用通风风扇、自动背部抓痒刷以及严格控制牛群规模来减少应激反应;这种管理方式有助于保持肌肉组织的柔软度,并防止因肾上腺素分泌导致的脂肪流失。 4. 溯源与冷链加工:根据韩国强制性的溯源体系,每头韩牛犊牛在出生时都会获得一个独一无二的12位RFID追踪编号。消费者在餐厅或超市扫描二维码,即可查看该牛只的具体产地(农场)、出生日期、饲养记录、屠宰场信息以及官方评级证书(采用JMGA标准)。</p> <p class="ql-block">哇,居然可以描码看牛的详情?!</p><p class="ql-block">下次有机会一定试试看。</p> <p class="ql-block">9/2: 去乐天大厦(?Lotte World Tower), </p> <p class="ql-block">第一次敢试坐taxi(以前总怕司机都只讲韩语)。碰上了个会讲英语的。居然还主动和我们聊天。</p><p class="ql-block">我们说起想吃面条。他马上就介绍我们去一家有名的面馆,明洞饺子。还说是Mechelin的。</p><p class="ql-block">半信半疑,进去瞧瞧吧。</p> <p class="ql-block">一进门就给我们一个菜单,就四样选择。排队点菜付款</p> <p class="ql-block">就给你划了个桌位号(25),进去就对号入座。</p> <p class="ql-block">机器人把餐从厨房推出耒,</p> <p class="ql-block">由服务员端上桌</p> <p class="ql-block">我们点的是菜单上的头两项:</p><p class="ql-block">刀削面和小笼包</p> <p class="ql-block">这面条比一般韩国面条有韧道,自称是刀削面。好吃。</p> <p class="ql-block">司机介绍这馆子的Kimchi特别好。</p><p class="ql-block">在这家餐馆之前吃过多次Kimchi。感觉可以接受,不太辣(在新疆和青岛的辣接受不了)。</p><p class="ql-block">可这家的Kimchi,哇! 一进嘴里就烧嗓子,赶紧吐出来,得把表面红红的辣椒去掉,才敢吃一点儿。🥵</p><p class="ql-block">也许这才是正宗的,特别好的韩国Kimchi😛😋</p> <p class="ql-block">自2017年以来获得MicheIin好评</p> <p class="ql-block">至今(2026)连续十年了</p> <p class="ql-block">From Gemini:</p><p class="ql-block">Yes, Myeongdong Kyoja has held a Michelin Bib Gourmand status continuously for years.</p><p class="ql-block">While it does not hold a traditional Michelin Star (which is typically reserved for fine dining), the Michelin Guide awards the Bib Gourmand to high-quality establishments offering exceptional food at affordable prices.</p><p class="ql-block">The Bib Gourmand is an official award given by the Michelin Guide, but it is distinct from a traditional Michelin Star.</p><p class="ql-block">Named after "Bibendum" (the official name of the Michelin Man mascot), it highlights restaurants that serve high-quality, delicious food at an affordable price.</p><p class="ql-block">Bib Gourmand vs. Michelin Star</p><p class="ql-block">| Feature | Michelin Star (1 to 3 Stars) | Michelin Bib Gourmand |</p><p class="ql-block">|---|---|---|</p><p class="ql-block">| Core Focus | Culinary artistry, innovation, and peak fine dining | Great quality cooking with exceptional value for money |</p><p class="ql-block">| Dining Style | Formal to upscale casual (tasting menus, luxury ingredients) | Casual, homestyle, or street food (short menus, iconic dishes) |</p><p class="ql-block">| Price Point | High to extreme ($100 to $500+ per person) | Budget to moderate (capped by local cost of living standards) |</p><p class="ql-block">| Ambiance | Refined service, formal atmosphere | Relaxed, bustling, neighborhood vibe |</p><p class="ql-block">Is it considered "as good" as a Michelin Star?</p><p class="ql-block">It isn't considered "worse"—it is evaluated on a completely different set of criteria:</p><p class="ql-block"> * In terms of food quality: Yes, the standards are rigorously high. Michelin inspectors use the same basic criteria for ingredients, flavor harmony, technique, and consistency to evaluate Bib Gourmand spots as they do for starred spots.</p><p class="ql-block"> * In terms of prestige: Michelin Stars hold a higher rank in terms of fine-dining prestige and global culinary acclaim.</p><p class="ql-block"> * In terms of practical enjoyment: Many diners actually prefer Bib Gourmand spots over Starred restaurants. Rather than long, multi-course tasting menus with high price tags, Bib Gourmand restaurants focus on doing simple, traditional, or regional comfort dishes brilliantly.</p> <p class="ql-block">译成中文:</p><p class="ql-block">明洞饺子馆(Myeongdong Kyoja)多年来一直保持着米其林“必比登推介”(Bib Gourmand)的荣誉。</p><p class="ql-block">虽然它并未获得传统的米其林星级(通常授予高端精致餐饮),但米其林指南会向那些以亲民价格提供优质美味佳肴的餐厅颁发“必比登推介”荣誉。</p><p class="ql-block">“必比登推介”是米其林指南颁发的一项正式奖项,但它与传统的米其林星级有所不同。</p><p class="ql-block">该奖项以“必比登”(Bibendum,即米其林轮胎人吉祥物的正式名称)命名,旨在表彰那些以实惠价格提供高品质美味佳肴的餐厅。</p> <p class="ql-block">9/4号坐车去机场路上和一中国籍朝鲜族的司机聊起来,提到明洞饺子店,她却不屑一顾说,那家面条不好吃,不如中华料理的炸酱面。那是由朝鲜战争后留在韩国的志愿军俘虏搞起来的,用的是韩国酱,所以有点儿偏甜,但肉末多。当时韩国较穷,<span style="font-size:18px;">吃炸酱面似乎是</span>奢侈,所以有大事要庆祝才去吃。后来就成了个传统,韩国人每到孩子毕业等大事都要去吃中国的炸酱面。</p><p class="ql-block">有意思。下回有机会再到首尔,一定要去试试<span style="font-size:18px;">中华料理的炸酱面。</span></p> <p class="ql-block">9/3号参加了个一日游。午餐时导游Peter推荐一间韩国餐馆及菜单上的#4</p> <p class="ql-block">bulgogi</p><p class="ql-block">韩式烤肉</p> <p class="ql-block">这次不是烤,而是在汤里涮一下。</p><p class="ql-block">好吃。</p> <p class="ql-block">用各种小莱拌饭(bibimbap)</p> <p class="ql-block">辣小菜和kimchi都还能接受</p> <p class="ql-block">听朋友说过首尔的冰沙/绵绵冰好吃。可一直沒见到过。</p> <p class="ql-block">9/2号: 一日游结束,到明洞刚下了旅游大巴,就看到路边一冷饮店的广告</p> <p class="ql-block">哈,这bingsu不就是许彤推荐的绵绵冰吗?</p> <p class="ql-block">终于看到,马上不吃晚饭就先吃了</p> <p class="ql-block">红豆+黑芝麻!😋</p> <p class="ql-block">上面点缀着两颗糯米小团子。</p> <p class="ql-block">搅混了吃。</p><p class="ql-block">好吃,绵绵的,不像刨冰那么冰渣,有点儿像ice-cream, 但又沒有<span style="font-size:18px;">ice-cream 那么rich。健康些?! 😜</span></p> <p class="ql-block">据朋友推荐,还有韩国的炸鸡和生鱼片值得试试。下次吧! 😄</p>