<p class="ql-block">今年夏天，我推着载满行李的自行车，从湿润葱郁的伊犁河谷出发，一路向西，往亚欧大陆桥的终点阿拉山口走去，车轮滚过1000多公里的风，把一段夏天的故事刻进了西北大地。</p> <p class="ql-block">出发前几天，我们先在伊宁落脚，六星街的指示牌写着浪漫的标语“向星辰许愿，在六星街相见”，路口就是鼎鼎有名的烤羊肉店，我们沿着香味拐进去，找了位置坐下，就着伊犁的晚风啃喷香的羊肉，连说话都沾着炭火气。</p> <p class="ql-block">出了城往阿拉山口走，G219的路碑一个接一个往后退。先是遇见了浪漫的520公里碑，红棕色的老桩牌配着爱心箭头，不少小情侣在这里停下拍照，我们也推着车凑过去，把满包行李往路边一靠，拍了张属于骑行者的纪念。</p> <p class="ql-block">再往前，就是977公里路碑，周围是光秃秃的褐红色山岩，风比伊犁大了好多，吹着山顶的电线嗡嗡响。路越来越宽，天也越来越蓝，远处的山从覆满绿植变成了裸露的石纹，空气里的湿润气一点点散掉，风里开始带着戈壁的干爽，我知道，离边境越来越近了。</p> <p class="ql-block">终于踩进阿拉山口口岸的时候，抬头看见中华人民共和国七个鲜红的大字嵌在门楼上，风从国门吹过来，带着国境线的辽阔。我们推着车在界碑旁停下，摸着冰凉的石碑，看着“中国·阿拉山口”几个红字，心里突然涨得满满的。</p> <p class="ql-block">这一路我们见过“铸剑为犁”的雕塑，安静立在边境的坡上，讲着和平的故事；也见过亚欧枢纽的大门，大货车排着队缓缓驶出，那是贸易往来的活水流过大陆桥；终于站在国门下的时候，才懂为什么那么多人都想要来这里走一趟——脚踩在祖国的土地上，抬头就是开阔蓝天，那种踏实和骄傲，是骑车走多少路都换不来的感动。</p> <p class="ql-block">往回走的时候我们重新回到伊宁，车站前摆着两只开屏的孔雀绿雕，层层叠叠的花围着尾巴，看得出来这座边城把日子过得有多用心。街边的树上结满了红透的果子，圆圆的坠在绿叶间，随手摘一颗擦干净咬开，酸甜的汁水迸开，是伊犁夏天最天然的味道。</p> <p class="ql-block">玩了几天我们拿到了定制的伊犁画报，头版就是我的骑行照，写着“今日宜拍照 属于你的专属头条”，把这一趟旅途的印记好好收了起来。每天骑完车，最幸福的就是坐下吃饭：刚煮好的手抓肉焖饭就着油香咸鸭蛋，烤饼撕一块泡进粥里，是运动后最满足的犒劳；晚上回到旅馆，就着冰汽水啃羊腿，一天的疲惫都顺着喉咙咽了下去。</p> <p class="ql-block">这段从伊犁河谷到阿拉山口的骑行，一头是塞外江南的柔美湿润，一头是国门边境的辽阔苍茫，我们用车轮一点点量过土地，把蓝天、微风、羊肉香和国门的风都装进了记忆里。这是属于夏天的冒险，也是属于我们自己的，穿越亚欧大陆桥的独家记忆。</p>
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