李承融：世界著名冲浪胜地贝尔斯海滩——分析强右卷海浪的形成原因 2026.1.12. （文图 原创 ）

李承融

　　澳大利亚东南海岸有好多适合冲浪的海滩，由于冲浪运动的兴盛，该地区的郡名也改为冲浪海岸郡（ Surf Coast Shire )。 托尔基（Torquay )镇是该郡中最著名冲浪镇。冲浪海滩依冲浪难度不同而定为业余和专业的级别。托尔基的贝尔斯( Bells )海滩，因有连续强烈的右卷浪（Right-hand point break）而成为世界著名的专业冲浪比赛地。

　　贝尔斯海滩名字源于早期土地拥有者威廉·贝尔( William Bell )。上世纪四五十年代海滩上就开始了冲浪运动。从1962年起，世界著名冲浪器具商瑞普酷（ Rip Curl ）于每年的复活节，在贝尔斯海滩举办年度的世界冲浪比赛，至今已64年。

贝尔斯海滩能成为世界冲浪胜地，是由特殊的地理气候条件造就的。澳大利亚东南海岸洋流主要受 南大洋强劲的南极绕极流（Antarctic Circumpolar Current, ACC）影响。洋流沿着南纬高纬度地区持续向东流动。贝尔斯地处南纬38.3度，又处于西风带 (Roaring Forties)的强风吹拂下。强烈的西北风会增强南极来洋流的动能。

　　维多利亚州南部海岸，从奥特威岬（Cape Otway)到威尔逊（ Wilson’s )的东南点（ South East Point )呈V形状面对南大洋。在维尔逊半岛那一侧由于有塔斯马尼亚（Tasmania )岛的阻隔，南大洋来的海浪势能会弱于涌向吉朗和贝尔斯海滩的。南大洋的强势洋流涌向吉朗和贝尔斯海岸时，并无任何陆地阻碍。逐渐收缩的V形海岸能积聚放大海浪的能量，这成就了这一带有较多可冲浪的海滩

　　贝尔斯海滩的浪涛比相邻几个海滩的更大，这是由特殊的海岸和水底礁岩形状造成的。贝尔斯海岸有耸立的山岩，海滩前有一个被称为“The Bowl”的深水区，接着是浅水区和岸部陡峭礁岩。当强劲的涌浪遭遇陡峭的礁岩阻挡时，后续涌浪迫使近礁壁前海水快速变窄上冲，形成高浪。上冲的海浪在海滩北端边缘能部分流出，无法流出的部分又汇入续来的涌流中，再次冲撞礁壁，激荡出阵阵的海浪·····

　　为什么贝尔斯海滩的海浪都呈现向右转的螺旋状？此问题在谷歌的AI和微软的Copilot 搜索的结果：贝尔斯海滩底部的礁岩呈右螺旋状而使海浪右旋。由于无人能钻到水底看海浪的形成过程，现有的答案只是人们的大致推测。由于我觉得网络上现有的解释不够准确合理，激起了我写此文的兴趣。根据海滩的地形图和我在实地看到的情况，我想分析判断得更合理而准确些。

　　贝尔斯海滩以凹陷形状沿西南向海岸阵列，凹形海滩北端突出部受涌向东北洋流冲击的强度比南端的更大。北端礁岩突出部呈105度角，汹涌向北的涌浪受阻挡，沿突出部转角冲上来呈右转螺旋状。激浪不断澎湃涌来，贝尔斯海滩飙出阵阵的右旋巨浪。数千年持续不断的海浪冲击，会逐渐在贝尔斯海滩北端礁岩上，冲出易于激浪涌出的凹痕

　　由于冲浪总是冲破旋转翻滚的卷浪，澳洲最著名的冲浪器具制造商取名为Rip Curl。 "RIP"词刻在墓碑上时，意为安息Rest in Peace 三个词的缩写。但Rip还有：撕开、冲破之意。Rip Curl中的Rip是指指冲浪中快速切开、突破的动作； "Curl"词意为卷曲，指环形状海浪。Rip Curl合在一起意为：冲破卷浪—— 勇敢地突破翻卷涌浪而成自由的“弄潮儿”。

　　贝尔斯海滩能成为优秀的冲浪比赛场，不仅有强劲的右旋海浪，还有较好的观赛条件。贝尔斯海滩有悬崖环绕，现在北部岩岸上已用木板搭建了一个永久的看台。之所以搭建在贝尔斯海滩的北端，是因为北端转角处激浪奔涌，飞涛四溅， 景象万千。每年复活节比赛还会在岸滩上部搭建临时的看台，以供观赛。

　　托尔基是澳洲重要旅游景点大洋路（ The Great Ocean Road )东端的起点。大洋路每年到访的游客约二百五十万到二百八十万人次，是澳大利亚最受旅游客人青睐的景点之一。当你去观赏大洋路的海景时，不妨在贝尔斯海滩稍作停留。

　　当你欣赏海浪拍打着的沙滩，海阔天空之下，能感受到这片海的魅力不仅在于它的地理结构，还在于海的磅礴壮美。

凝视浩瀚无垠的碧海蓝天，能开阔你的心胸视野，忘却烦忧和不适；

面对奔涌激荡的波澜海涛，可昂扬你的豪情意气，摒弃俗意和消沉。

愿我们都能常抽出时间，回归自然，感受自然之美，生活得更自然而健康！

附录

李泽民：

文章确实不错，与众不同，通过仔细观察客观情况，有理有据的推理分析讲述，很让人佩服。虽然现在的AI已经能查很多东西，但很多都是人云亦云的东西，通过自己掌握的知识和仔细观察，确实能描述出很多别人没有的内容。

金色小草：

作者以细腻的笔触描绘了贝尔斯海滩的风景秀丽，把洋流风带、右手浪等海水运动，冲浪文化深入浅出的介绍，使读者渐入佳境，知识性、趣味性融于一体。知晓大洋路著名景点沿线又多了一个好去处。

沧海一粟：

与其它虚头巴脑的作品不同，这样图文并茂的文章很有生气，还特别接地气，更赢得了人气。

相信这是普罗大众，尤其是喜欢地理和旅行朋友所欣赏的美文[强][玫瑰]

邓菲：

@李承融  优美的照片不必多说。读文章时大开眼界，不时忍不住晃头晃脑地分辨东南西北。向右旋转的浪，太美了 [强][强][强]

肖山：

仔细看了，我觉得写的不错，有自然风光描写，同时也有一定的专业讨论。非常好！

英文版

World-famous surfing resort - Bells Beach

Winston Lee. 2026.1.12. (Original)

There are many beaches suitable for surfing on the southeast coast of Australia. Due to the flourishing of surfing, the county name of the area has also been changed to Surf Coast Shire. The town of Torquay is the most famous surfing town in the county. Surfing beach is set for amateur and professional levels according to the difficulty of surfing. Bells Beach in Torquary has become a world-famous professional surfing competition venue for its continuous strong right-hand point break.

Bells Beach is named after William Bell, an early landowner. Surfing began on the beach in the 1940s and 1950s. Since 1962, Rip Curl, a world-famous surf equipment merchant, has held its annual World Surfing Competition in Bells Beach every Easter. It has been 64 years since then.

Bells Beach can become a world surfing resort due to special geographical and climatic conditions. The southeastern ocean current of Australia is mainly affected by the strong Antarctic Circumpolar Current (ACC) of the Southern Ocean. Ocean currents continue to flow eastward along the high latitudes of the south latitude. Bells is located at 38.3 degrees south latitude and is under the strong winds of the Roaring Forties. The strong northwest wind will enhance the kinetic energy of the Antarctic Ocean current.

On the southern coast of Victoria, from Cape Otway to the South East Point of Wilson's, faces the southern ocean in a V-shape. On the other side of the Wilson Peninsula, due to the barrier of Tasmania Island, the waves from the Southern Ocean will be weaker than those to Geelong and Bells Beach. When the strong ocean currents of the Southern Ocean rush to the coast of Geelong and Balls, there is no land obstruction. The gradually shrinking V-shaped coast can accumulate the energy to amplify the waves, which makes this area more beaches for surfing.

When you enjoy the beach beating the waves, under the wide sky, you can feel the charm of this sea not only in its geographical structure, but also in the magnificence of the sea.

Staring at the vast blue sea and blue sky can broaden your horizons and forget your worries and discomfort;

In the face of the surging waves, you can exalt your pride and abandon vulgarity and depression.

May we all take time to return to nature, feel the beauty of nature, and live a more natural and healthy life!

The waves of Bells Beach are greater than those of several adjacent beaches, which is caused by the special coastal and underwater reef shape. There are towering rocks on the shores of Bells, and there is a deep-water area called "The Bowl" in front of the beach, followed by a shallow water area and steep reefs on the shore. When the strong surge is blocked by steep reefs, the subsequent surge forces the seawater near the reef wall to quickly narrow and rush up, forming high waves. The rushing waves can partially flow out of the edge of the north end of the beach, and the part that cannot flow out flows into the continuous surge, hitting the reef wall again, stirring up bursts.

Why do the waves on Bells Beach spiral to the right? The search result of this question in Google's AI and Microsoft's Copilot : the reef at the bottom of Bells Beach spirals to the right, causing the waves to spin to the right. Since no one can go to the bottom of the water to see the formation of the waves, the current answer is just a general guess. According to the topographic map of the beach and what I have seen on the ground, I want to make a more reasonable and accurate analysis.

Bells Beach is a concave southwest coast array, and the northern protrusion of the concave beach is more intensely impacted by the northeast ocean current than the southern end. The northern reef protrusion is at a 105-degree angle, and the surging waves to the north are blocked and rush up along the corner of the protrusion to turn right in a spiral. The waves kept surging, and there were bursts of right-handed waves on Bells Beach. The waves that have been going on for thousands of years will gradually wash out dents that are prone to surges on the reefs at the northern end of Bells Beach.

The reef at the northern end of Bells Beach

Because surfing always breaks through the swirling waves, Australia's most famous surf equipment manufacturer is named Rip Curl. When the word "RIP" is engraved on the tombstone, it means the abbreviation of the three words Rest in Peace. But Rip also has the meaning of tearing and breaking through. Rip in Rip Curl refers to the action of rapid breakthrough in surfing; the word "Curl" means curl, ring-shaped waves. Rip Curl together means: breaking through the rolling waves - bravely breaking through the rolling waves and becoming a free "tidebreaker".

Bells Beach can be an excellent surfing competition venue, not only with strong right-handed waves, but also better conditions for watching the competition. Bells Beach is surrounded by cliffs, and now a permanent stand has been built with wooden boards on the northern rocky shore. The reason why it is built at the northern end of Bells Beach is that the waves are surging at the corner of the north end, the waves are splashing everywhere, and the scene is thousands of. Every year, a temporary stand will be set up in the upper part of the beach for spectators.

Torquary is the starting point at the eastern end of The Great Ocean Road, an important tourist attraction in Australia. About 2.5 million to 2.8 million tourists visit Ocean Road every year, and it is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Australia. When you go to enjoy the sea view of the Great Ocean Road, you might as well stop at Bells Beach.