梦寻西河古镇 情醉晥风徽韵

张文宏

西河古镇，即西河老街（西河村）位于安徽省芜湖市芜湖县红杨镇，得名于明洪武年间，2014年被列入第三批中国传统村落名录。这座蜷卧于青弋江畔的600年水乡，以未被商业浸染的淳朴与沧桑肌理，成为皖南古镇群中的“隐秘遗珠”。

Xihe Ancient Town, also known as Xihe Old Street (Xihe Village), is situated in Hongyang Town, Wuhu County, Wuhu City, Anhui Province. Its name dates back to the Hongwu era of the Ming Dynasty, and in 2014, it was included in the third batch of China's Traditional Villages List. This 600-year-old riverside town, nestled along the banks of the Qingyi River, has retained its unspoiled simplicity and weathered charm, untouched by commercialization, making it a "hidden gem" among the ancient towns of southern Anhui.

古镇依青弋江西岸而建，江水蜿蜒流淌，形成独特的滨水景观带，两岸古树掩映，与徽派建筑相映成趣，构成一幅天然水墨画卷。

The ancient town is built along the western bank of the Qingyi River, where the meandering waterway forms a distinctive riverside landscape. Ancient trees shade both shores, harmonizing with the Hui-style architecture to create a natural ink-wash painting.

西河古镇是天然水运码头，古往今来商业极为发达，南来北往的商家络绎不绝。现今的西河老街全长665米，既是街道也是沈公圩的堤防，由于连年如盯筑堤防汛，街面一直在增高，使得两边的房屋和店铺略低于现在的街面。

Xihe Ancient Town, a natural water transport hub, has been commercially prosperous since ancient times, with merchants and travelers continuously coming and going from north to south. The present-day Xihe Old Street stretches 665 meters in length, serving both as a thoroughfare and as the embankment for Shengongwei. Due to the ongoing elevation of the embankment for flood prevention over the years, the street level has been consistently raised, resulting in the buildings and shops on both sides being situated slightly below the current road surface.

古镇入口，石额高悬，墨痕苍劲，“西河古镇”四字如启一卷明清长卷。

At the entrance to the ancient town, a stone plaque hangs high, with bold and vigorous ink strokes reading "Xihe Ancient Town"—the four characters seem to unroll a long scroll from the Ming and Qing dynasties.

古镇以旱桥为界，分为上街和下街两处。上街大多为旧时传下来的老宅，老客栈，老物件，还有新四军纪念馆；下街有城市记忆纪念馆、书画展等。

The ancient town is divided into Upper Street and Lower Street, with a dry bridge as the boundary. Upper Street mainly consists of old houses, traditional inns, and antiques handed down from the past, as well as the New Fourth Army Memorial Hall. Lower Street features the City Memory Exhibition Hall and a painting and calligraphy exhibition.

上街旧时传下的老物件

Antiques passed down from the streets of yesteryear

古镇上街的老宅、老客栈

Old houses and old inns in the ancient town's Upper Street

新四军第四支队在河西纪念馆

The Memorial Hall of the Fourth Detachment of the New Fourth Army in Hexi

徽音堂

Huiyin Hall

下街城市创意及纪念展

Lower Street Urban Creativity and Commemorative Exhibition

西河古镇建筑群是活态的博物馆，完整保留1.2公里主街及七条巷弄体系，现存明清建筑群以"粉墙黛瓦马头墙，飞檐翘角花格窗"为典型特征，如百年理发店、裁缝铺等原貌商铺。

The architectural complex of Xihe Ancient Town serves as a living museum. It completely preserves the 1.2-kilometer main street and the system of seven lanes and alleys. The existing Ming and Qing dynasty architectural clusters are characterized by the classic features of "white walls, black tiles, and horse-head gables; upturned eaves and latticed windows." Shops that retain their original appearance, such as a century-old barbershop and tailor's shop, are also part of the complex.

故土难离的老人们，在他们的眼里，老街是永远的家，是心中永恒的纪念。

For the elders who are deeply attached to their homeland, the old street is not just a physical place—it is their eternal home, a timeless memento forever enshrined in their hearts.

西河古镇的渡口是游人的必到之处，这里曾是水陆交会商贾云集的必经之处，数百块青石板修筑的上下台阶已被磨得光滑如镜，由于坡度较陡，由上而下行走需注意脚下防滑，站在码头的最低处向上仰望，沧桑之感油然而生。

The ferry pier at Xihe Ancient Town is an essential stop for every visitor. Once a vital hub where land and water routes converged, bustling with traders and travelers, it is paved with hundreds of bluestone steps that have been worn smooth as mirrors over time. Due to the relatively steep slope, visitors are advised to tread carefully and be mindful of slipping when descending. Standing at the lowest point of the pier and gazing upward, one cannot help but feel a deep sense of history and the weight of time.

沿河一侧旧民宅，墙高壁陡，基部用麻石堆砌而成，拔地数丈，峭壁耸立，素有“江南吊脚楼”之美誉。堤埂内侧房屋店铺多为数进相连，从街心踏青石台阶而下，步入室内，可延伸十余米。

Along the riverbank, the old dwellings feature tall walls and steep foundations. Their bases are constructed from rough-hewn granite, rising several meters from the ground like sheer cliffs, earning them the poetic name "Jiangnan Stilted Houses." On the inner side of the embankment, the houses and shops are often connected through multiple courtyards. Descending from the street via bluestone steps into the interiors, one can find spaces extending over ten meters deep.

2015年8月被住建部等七部委联合授牌，启动系统性保护工程，重点修复了王家大院等20余处徽派古民居。

In August 2015, it was jointly awarded a commemorative plaque by seven ministries, including the Ministry of Housing and Urban-Rural Development, initiating a systematic protection project. The restoration focused on over 20 Hui-style ancient residences, with the Wang Family Compound being a key priority.

马忠的这首《月上西河》写出了西河古镇迷人的风光和街民的淳朴好客。

Ma Zhong's poem "Moon over Xihe" beautifully captures the enchanting scenery of Xihe Ancient Town and the sincere hospitality of its residents.

西河活态古镇的烟火气息 不同于周庄的喧嚣，西河仍延续着原生态的市井节奏。老茶馆里，搪瓷缸泡着炒青，老人们用芜湖官话闲聊民国往事；铁匠铺火星四溅，非遗传承人敲打铁画的叮当声穿透百年时光。

Unlike the lively hustle and bustle of Zhouzhuang, Xihe Ancient Town preserves the rhythm of an authentic, vibrant community. In the old teahouses, green tea is brewed in enamel mugs as elders chat in Wuhu dialect, reminiscing about tales from the Republic of China era. Inside the blacksmith shops, sparks fly as intangible cultural heritage inheritors hammer away at iron paintings—the rhythmic clanging seems to traverse a hundred years of time.

西河古镇拥有丰富多样的美食，以其独特的口味和制作工艺吸引着众多游客前来品尝。特色小吃如西河羊肉、蹄髈、馄饨、臭干子、羊汤面、小刀面等，深受游客喜爱。此外，古镇还以秘制腊味闻名，例如已有近300年历史的王家腊肠和王家腊肉，同样是不可错过的美味佳肴。

Xihe Ancient Town boasts a rich and diverse food culture, attracting numerous visitors with its unique flavors and traditional cooking techniques. Local specialties such as Xihe-style lamb, pork knuckle, wontons, fermented tofu, lamb noodle soup, and hand-shaved noodles are particularly popular among tourists. Additionally, the town is renowned for its secret-recipe cured meats, like the nearly 300-year-old Wang Family sausages and preserved pork, which are also must-try delicacies.

西河古镇的百家宴，宛如一颗璀璨的明珠，在古镇的文化长河中闪耀着迷人的光芒。当古镇与百家宴相遇，便是一场传统与热闹的盛大交融，展现出古镇居民的热情好客与团结和睦。

The Hundred-Family Banquet of Xihe Ancient Town is like a brilliant pearl, shimmering with enchanting light in the cultural river of the ancient town. When the ancient town meets the Hundred-Family Banquet, it becomes a grand fusion of tradition and liveliness, showcasing the warm hospitality and harmonious unity of the townspeople.

西河这座蜷卧于青弋江畔的600年水乡古镇，以未被商业浸染的淳朴与沧桑肌理，成为皖南古镇群中的“隐秘遗珠”。若我下次再来时，便宿于江畔民宿，夜听橹声欸乃，感受“西河枕水眠，一梦六百年”。

Nestled along the banks of the Qingyi River, Xihe is a 600-year-old water town that has preserved its uncommercialized simplicity and weathered texture, making it a "hidden gem" among the ancient towns of southern Anhui. If I return, I will stay in a riverside lodge, listening to the soft creak of oars at night, and immerse myself in the dreamlike experience of "Xihe sleeping by the water, dreaming through six hundred years."