银川篇 Yinchuan 2025 1209-13

劳伦斯

银川是宁夏回族自治区的首府，也是西北地区的重要中心城市和历史文化名城。它不仅处于全国性综合交通枢纽之上，更是全国重要的能源产业基地和西北先进制造业基地。

Yinchuan is the capital of the Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region, as well as an important central city and a renowned historical and cultural hub in Northwest China. It not only serves as a national comprehensive transportation hub, but also stands as a major national energy industry base and a leading advanced manufacturing centre in the northwest.
宁夏博物馆展览了宁夏的历史文化和地方特色的民俗文化。让来到博物馆参观的游客身临其境地感受到这片土地的伟大和美丽。

The Ningxia Museum showcases the region's history, culture, and distinctive local folk traditions, allowing visitors to experience firsthand the greatness and beauty of this land.
从旧石器时代水洞沟遗址的原始牛头化石、新石器时代马家窑文化的豆荚纹双耳彩陶壶、战国时期的青铜透雕牌饰、汉代的回首卧式错金银铜羊……，时光仿佛穿越了数万年。

From the primitive bison skull fossil of the Paleolithic Shuidonggou site, to the double-handled painted pottery jar with pod patterns of the Neolithic Majiayao culture, to the bronze openwork ornament of the Warring States period, and the gold-and-silver inlaid reclining bronze sheep of the Han dynasty… it feels as though time has traversed tens of thousands of years.
宁夏博物馆的“镇馆之宝”，鎏金铜牛，代表了西夏时期铸造工艺的最高水平。以铜牛为随葬品反映了西夏农耕经济的兴盛。

The Ningxia Museum's "treasure of the collection," the Gilded Bronze Ox, represents the highest reaching of casting craftsmanship during the Western Xia period. Its use as a burial object reflects the prosperity of the Western Xia agrarian economy.
银川鼓楼矗立在解放东路与鼓楼街交汇的环旋路口中央。这里没有红绿灯控制交通，参观者需在繁忙车流的间隙中穿行，才能进入鼓楼。

The Drum Tower of Yinchuan stands at the centre of the roundabout where Jiefang East Road and Drum Tower Street intersect. With no traffic lights to regulate the flow, visitors must weave through busy passing vehicles to reach the tower.
鼓楼的东面有一处小园林和玉皇阁。

To its east lies a small garden and the Yuhuang Pavilion.
回族人民普遍信仰伊斯兰教。银川的回族文化，民俗风情、宗教信仰等多重特色，成为中华文明中的一颗璀璨明珠。

The Hui people generally follow Islam. The Hui culture of Yinchuan, with its rich folk customs and religious traditions, has become a shining jewel within Chinese civilization.
宁夏最大的清真寺，南关清真大寺。

The largest mosque in Ningxia, the Nanguan Grand Mosque.
清真美食是银川回族饮食文化的一大特色。服务员热情地介绍说，他们的食材只选用宁夏滩羊，肉质细嫩、毫无膻味，被誉为‘羊中贵族’。平日不吃羊肉的我，也难抵美食的诱惑，索性‘豁出去’尝试了一口——果然鲜美异常！

Halal cuisine is a distinctive feature of Yinchuan's Hui culinary culture. The waiter enthusiastically explained that they use only Ningxia Tan sheep, known for its tender texture and lack of any gamy taste, earning the title "noble among sheep." Although I usually don't eat lamb, I couldn't resist the temptation of such delicacies and decided to give it a try — and it turned out to be truly delicious!
西夏王陵是银川这个塞上古城的名片，是探索西夏王朝遗迹的游客必来的景点。

The Western Xia Imperial Mausoleums serve as a cultural emblem of Yinchuan, the ancient city on the frontier, and are a must-visit destination for travellers seeking to explore the legacy of the Western Xia Dynasty.
西夏王陵中的帝陵共有9座，我们前往3号陵。

There are nine imperial mausoleums within the Western Xia Mausoleums, and we headed to No. 3 Mausoleum.
王陵位于银川市贺兰山东麓中段，陵园以北方黄土夯筑技术为主。“贺兰山下古冢稠，高下有如浮水沤”是古人对西夏陵的描述。 The imperial mausoleums are located in the middle section of the eastern foothills of Helan Mountain in Yinchuan. The tombs were primarily constructed using the traditional rammed-earth technique of northern China. The ancient description of the Western Xia Mausoleums goes: 'At the foot of Helan Mountain, ancient tombs cluster.’ 西夏陵以高大宏伟的密塔状陵台为中心，将贺兰山与黄河、都城等融为一体，是规模最大、保存最完整的西夏历史遗存。

At the heart of the Western Xia Mausoleums stands a grand, towering pagoda-shaped platform, integrating Helan Mountain, the Yellow River, and the ancient capital into one landscape. It is the largest and best-preserved historical relic of the Western Xia Dynasty.
贺兰山岩画是中国游牧民族留下的艺术画廊。贺兰山在古代是匈奴、鲜卑、突厥、回鹘、吐蕃、党项等北方少数民族驻牧游猎、生息繁衍的地方。在南北长200多公里的贺兰山腹地，有20多处遗存岩画，贺兰口岩画是其中最具有代表性的地方。

The Helan Mountain Rock Art serves as an open-air art gallery left by China's nomadic peoples. In ancient times, the Helan Mountain range was a vital habitat for northern ethnic groups such as the Xiongnu, Xianbei, Turks, Uighurs, Tibetan Empire (Tubo), and Dangxiang, where they herded livestock, hunted, and thrived. Spanning over 200 kilometers north to south, the mountain's heartland contains more than 20 rock art sites, with the Helankou (Helan Pass) site being the most representative.
岩羊，栖息活动于高山裸岩、高山草甸和山谷草地，听、视觉都很灵敏，行动敏捷，善于登高走险。

The blue sheep inhabits alpine bare rocks, mountain meadows, and valley grasslands. It has highly sensitive hearing and vision, moves with agility, and is adept at climbing and navigating steep terrain.
韩美林艺术馆收藏了韩美林先生数十年来创作的千余件艺术精品，这些作品由他捐赠给银川市人民政府。银川市在岩画遗址公园内兴建此馆，旨在借助韩美林先生以当代艺术形式对贺兰山岩画的解读，使古老的岩画文化更加直观、更贴近民间，并开辟出一条古岩画与现代时尚相融合的全新道路。

The Han Meilin Art Museum houses over a thousand masterpieces created by Mr. Han Meilin over decades, all donated by the artist to the Yinchuan Municipal Government. Established within the Helan Mountain Rock Art Heritage Park, the museum leverages Mr. Han's contemporary reinterpretations of Helan Mountain rock art to make this ancient culture more accessible and relatable to the public, forging a new path that bridges prehistoric rock carvings with modern aesthetics.
韩美林先生前后七次来到这里，观摩岩画艺术，汲取创作灵感。贺兰山岩画也因此被韩美林先生视为自己艺术创作的重要转折。

Mr. Han Meilin visited this place seven times to observe the rock art and drew creative inspiration. As a result, the Helan Mountain rock art came to be regarded by him as an important turning point in his artistic career.
手抓羊肉在宁夏也简称“手抓”，选用散养滩羊，带骨羊肉先煮后蒸，把脂肪蒸出，香而不腻，保留了羊肉本身的鲜美滋味。今天我继续尝试这味银川美食。连肉带骨一起啃，非常过瘾。

In Ningxia, hand-grabbed mutton, often simply called 'shou zhua,' is made from free-range Tan sheep. The bone-in lamb is first boiled and then steamed, allowing the fat to melt away so that it is fragrant but not greasy, while preserving the meat's natural savory flavor. Today I once again tried this Yinchuan delicacy—gnawing the meat together with the bone was truly satisfying.
石嘴山沙湖旅游景区距离银川市42公里，景区里22.5平方公里的沙漠与45平方公里的水域毗邻而居，有沙、水、苇、鸟、山五大自然景观。融合江南水乡之灵秀与塞北大漠之雄浑为一体，被誉为“丝路驿站”上的旅游明珠。

The Shizuishan Shahu Tourist Scenic Area is located 42 kilometers from Yinchuan. Within the site, 22.5 square kilometres of desert lie side by side with 45 square kilometres of water, forming five natural landscapes of sand, water, reeds, birds, and mountains. It blends the elegance of the watery towns of Jiangnan with the grandeur of the northern frontier desert, earning the reputation of being a "tourism jewel" along the Silk Road.

今天景区的游客加上我一共只有四位。沙漠与湿地的景点已经关闭，只能乘坐观光船游览沙湖。沙湖由黄河古河道洼地的地下水溢出汇聚而成，并接受大气降水与地表水的补给。站在这里，我是不是就算见到黄河了？

Today, including myself, there were only four visitors in the scenic area. The desert and wetland attractions were closed, so the only option was to tour Shahu Lake by sightseeing boat. Shahu Lake was formed by groundwater seeping from the ancient Yellow River riverbed depressions, supplemented by rainfall and surface water. Here I stand—have I truly come face to face with the Yellow River?

观光船票价是80元，再付多1元送小火锅，有鱼片或者牛肉片。在寒冷的天气中游船河，能喝上一口热汤，热菜，真是很贴心！

The sightseeing ticket costed 80 yuan, and for just 1 yuan more each got a mini hotpot with either fish slices or beef slices. Cruising on the river in cold weather, being able to enjoy a sip of hot soup and a warm dish felt truly thoughtful!

在银川三日游期间，小陈是我的司机兼向导。小陈不仅帮助我规划了西夏王陵、贺兰山岩画等特色路线，还推荐了几家地道的回民清真餐馆。我一一去尝试了，有“同心泰”的优质刀削面和凉拌韭菜；“坊上人碳火餐馆”的红烧带鱼和葱爆牛肉；“老毛手抓”的手抓羊肉等当地美食。这些餐馆食材新鲜、分量扎实，特别实惠，体现了西北人民的实在与热爱生活。我真心再次感谢她的陪伴与帮助！

During my three-day tour in Yinchuan, Madame Chen served as both my driver and guide. She not only designed an itinerary featuring unique attractions like the Western Xia Tombs and Helan Mountain Rock Art, but also recommended several authentic Hui Muslim halal restaurants to me. I tried each one of them, savoring the high-quality hand-cut noodles and cold-mixed leek at "Tongxintai"; the braised ribbonfish and scallion-stir-fried beef at "Fangshangren Charcoal Fire Restaurant"; and the local delicacy of hand-grabbed mutton at "Laomao Shouzhua", among other dishes. These restaurants offered fresh ingredients and generous portions at affordable prices, reflecting the sincerity and zest for life of the people in the northwest. I sincerely thank her again for her company and assistance!