<p class="ql-block">文：仁飞试译</p><p class="ql-block">按，这是一篇目前尙未被关注的一篇英文报道，有关1939年许地山在中英文化协会所作的一次中国女装史研究演讲。</p><p class="ql-block">早在1935年许地山正式发表《近三百年来中国女装》。</p><p class="ql-block">他指出公服是命女的服装，自皇后以至七品命妇都有规定，礼服从民人说可以分为吉服与丧服两种，而平常的服装的形式最多，变化也比公服与礼服自由。有关许地山在研究服装史中重视钮扣，甚至庙宇神像的服饰等细节，在郑振铎、叶启芳等好友的回忆文章中可以看到。</p><p class="ql-block">1935年8月10日开始，以地山名义发表的《中国妇女脚的解放：三百年来的缠足文献》陆续在《盛京日报》发表。这是一篇目前尚没有被录入到各许地山文集中的学术文献，是许地山研究中国服装史、民俗变迁史的史料准备工作，从中搜集了清代三百年来对妇女摧残最厉害的各种史料，揭示许地山对这一恶俗的批判，呈现学术研究中的人文关怀。他引用史料指出：“国家关系于下的弊病，不是别的，皆因女子缠足。天下男子的聪明慢慢地会闭塞起来，德行慢慢地会丧坏起来，国家慢慢也就闭塞坏起来。”</p><p class="ql-block">笔者继续试译这一篇英文报道，然而因荒废阅读英文多年，翻译起来磕磕碰碰，有表达不一定准确的情形，敬请谅解。期待专家来翻译。</p> <p class="ql-block">Chinese Women's Costumes During The Last300 Years</p><p class="ql-block">许地山教授讲述近三百年中国女装</p><p class="ql-block">——Hong Kong Daily Press,1939-11-11,p7</p><p class="ql-block">"That the custom of foot-banding was started by court dancers who had to perform in a very small space and was maintained throughout the Manchu dynasty as a passive expression of patribotism;缠足的风俗，始于宫廷舞者在很小的范围内作表演,在有清一代成为爱国主义的负面存在。 that the kimono, which is worn by the Japanese, 日本人所穿的和服其实是中国古老的服装is really old Chinese dress; and而服装中的拉链在中国已存在了数个世纪 that a type af zip-fas- tener was known in China many hundred years ago, 许地山教授在他的“近三百年中国女装”演讲中阐释了令人着迷的问题were some of the fascinating facts revealed by Professor Hsu Ti-shan in the course of his talk on “Chinese Women's Castumes during the last 300 years." 这是昨日许地山在中英文化协会于香港大学冯平山图书馆上所作的主旨发言。given at the first meeting of the season of the Sino-Bitish Cultural Association, held at the Fung Ping- shan Library of the Hongkong University yesterday.shan Library 'of the Hongkong，演讲吸引了大量的听众，许地山教授向大家展示了各种服装名款的投影片及照片。</p><p class="ql-block"> A large number of people listened with great interest to the talk which was lustrated with lantern-sildes, and also viewed with delight a fine array of pictures depicting the famous styles and changes mentioned by Professor Hsu.</p><p class="ql-block">Mr. D. J, Sloss, C.BE. Vice- Chancellor of the University, 港大副校长施洛士主持演讲。中英文化协会荣誉秘书陈君葆朗读了港督的致歉信，称他有另一场重要活动不克参加。presided. Mr. Chan Kwan-po, honorary secretary of the Association, read a letter from His Excellencythe Governor apologising for his inabliity to attend due to another important engagement</p><p class="ql-block">Prof. Hsu said, In part:-.,以下是许地山演讲的部分内容</p><p class="ql-block">it was under the Manchu yoke that costumes of the Chinese people unaerwent a great change. 在满族的统治下，中国人的穿着发生很大的变化。On account of the fact 事实证明中国人有悠久的文明与文化史，比其他地区的人民更爱国that the Chinese possessed a long history of civlization and culture. and naturally were more patriotic than the rest of the subjected peoples, the Manchu emperors in the beginning of the dynasty compelled them to adopt Mancnu costumes, 清朝帝王为了削弱敌意，强迫人民接受服装，以作为服从他们统治的一种手段as a sign of submission on the one hand jand in order to reduce their racial feeling on the other..</p><p class="ql-block">It was after the last great war that Chinese Ladies began to follow the styles of European or Amerlcan movie stars. So orlginallty可以说，中国女性开始接受欧美影视明星的时尚是近世一场很大的战争，这也导致中国时尚创新的损失， and creativeness are lost in Chinese fashion. Headdress and toilette re- main a very important part in female costumes。传统的女性服装中帽子与礼物依然很重要。 </p><p class="ql-block"> The costumes of Chinese women during the past, three hundred years have undergone a great change on account most y of the contact with foreign civilizion And from now on Chinese ladies may adopt entirely foreign styles for which I have reasons to remister a deep regret。在过去三百年中，特别是接触外国文明的中国女性完全接受外国服装款式后，中国女装发生了巨大变化，这也是我深深遗憾的原因。</p><p class="ql-block">I hope a study of the old Chinese costumes may stimulate the interest of our people so that' a revival would be possible of a t ie natonal costurme for our ladies.我希望对中国传统服装的研究，能引起人们的兴趣，以复兴我们国家的女子服装。</p><p class="ql-block">SPEAKER THANKED</p><p class="ql-block">在演讲结束之时，Hon, Mr. M. K, 佛斯特教授致词时表示，今天中国女装是令人满意的东方与西方之间的折中。</p><p class="ql-block">Proressor Hsu was thanked at the canclusion of his talk by the Hon, Mr. M. K, LD.</p><p class="ql-block">Proressor L. Forster, who also spoke, said that present-day Chineae ladies’ dress seemed to him to be a happy compromise between the East and the West。</p>