Walking the Camino Le Puy - Day 27

欣然 密州

May 14, 2025, Sunny, 10-22°C


Day 27, Arzacq-Arraziguet to Pomps, 22km, +300m/-400m

Including yesterday, the three consecutive stages (23, 24, 25) were all over 30 kilometers long. I split stages 24 and 25 into three days. Today’s walk was 22km, and from now on, daily distances won’t exceed 25 kilometers. I walked with my backpack today, no issues. Yesterday, I saw the majestic Pyrenees mountains from a distance. Today, I saw them even more clearly. The scenery along the way was picturesque.

I left the Gite at 8 a.m. and spotted Matt in the distance, so I hurried to catch up. Matt’s got some luck. The day before yesterday, he took a wrong turn onto a highway but accidentally avoided a muddy path. Yesterday, with some foresight, he suggested walking on the road 3km before Pimbo, dodging another muddy mess. Today, Matt was aiming for over 30km, so we parted ways after 9.8km at a coffee shop. I wanted to take my time and enjoy the scenery. We made a plan to grab a beer together in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (SJPDP). Matt just retired two weeks ago, having managed eight or nine magazines in his career. He loves hiking and often writes for a magazine called Walks. He’s done plenty of hiking routes, mostly funded by work. This time, his hike in France is also sponsored—staying in hotels, eating at restaurants, with all his gear provided by brand sponsors.

At the coffee shop, I saw Jacqueline again. She’s also walking over 30km today, so I probably won’t see her again. We took a photo together to remember the moment. Jacqueline, 63, is hiking solo. These past few days, we’ve often stayed at the same Gite. At Gite, she always limps around, but the next morning, she heads out with a huge backpack. Yesterday morning, I saw her drinking beer, and she said it helps build muscle and is good for walking. At first, I thought she meant a specific type of beer, but when I asked, she clarified it’s all beer. Anyway, she’s drinking beer at every stops.

I arrived in Pomps before 2 p.m. today. The Gite doesn’t open until 4 p.m., but luckily, there was a place to grab a beer.

I passed a campsite.

The campsite has tents set up for those who didn’t bring their own. The French guy who helped Jacqueline through the mud yesterday is staying here.

The sign reads: “You’re awesome, you’ve walked 614 km from Le Puy. 908 km to go to Santiago.”

The distant Pyrenees mountains are becoming clearer and clearer.

A church at the roadside.

The interior.

At 10:15, I passed by a coffee shop. Fellow pilgrims stopped to rest.

Take a photo with Jacqueline.

A chapel in the village.

Inside the chapel.

Wild flowers.

The Pyrenees Mountains.

Passed by the 12th-century Saint-Pierre Monastery.

The church in the monastery.

The wheats have turned into golden.

　　Scarecrows.

The 12th-century Saint Quitterie Church.

After walking for an hour, I passed another church. I passed by five churches on the road today.

The interior.

I arrived in Pomps, a small village with a population of 290, at 2 p.m. There’s a tiny shop in the village selling beer, yogurt, and boiled eggs.


There’s only one Gite here, run by the local government, and it’s fully booked today. We had dinner in the gym. The accommodation is in two simple, shed-like rooms next to and behind the gym.

The room I’m in is small, with about four bunk beds and several single beds. This kind of crowded dormitory is common in Spain, but it’s the first time I’ve seen one like this in France. I was assigned a lower bunk near the door. The bed is fully enclosed on five sides, offering enough privacy. But something felt off. I noticed that everyone’s dozen or so pairs of shoes were less than a meter from my pillow.

I discussed with two female roommates whether we could ask everyone to move their shoes to the gym. They agreed and suggested I talk to the owner. The owner came to inspect right away, agreed with my reasoning, and arranged for us to move the shoes to the laundry room. I started notifying and urging everyone to move their shoes out of the room. One person refused to comply. I said I’d throw their shoes out, and another French person got up and took their shoes to the laundry room. This incident made the French folks take notice of me. Most people were friendly, but one person was defiant. In fact, all Gites require shoes to be left at the entrance, let alone in the sleeping area. This place was an exception. Even so, there was still an “opposition party.” No reform is ever easy. The other room had a shoe rack outside, but people quickly moved their shoes to the laundry room anyway.

What I can’t understand is that with so many pilgrims staying here every day, has no one ever raised the issue of the shoes over the years?

The dinner was served at the gym. Dinner included salad, pork chops, and rice. On the Le Puy route, guesthouse meals rarely include vegetables. Today’s meal had a relatively good amount of them.