2025-06-26,甪直古镇(上)

DJR

<p class="ql-block">今天我们将驱车离开千岛湖,<span style="font-size:18px;">在网红的千岛湖灯塔打个卡。从青溪入口上高速,然后</span>前往甪直古镇游览,最后返回上海。</p><p class="ql-block">整个路程至少耗时约5个小时。</p> <p class="ql-block">7:40 在悦·湖咖啡厅享用自助早餐。</p> <p class="ql-block">9:40 抵达千岛湖的网红灯塔打卡</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">水涨时的灯塔,有种荷兰风格的美,原图直出很惊艳啊!</p> <p class="ql-block">视频展示的景色,似乎更加流畅真实…</p> <p class="ql-block">今天是晴到多云的天气,气温上升到36摄氏度,体感是40摄氏度。难怪太阳照在身上,皮肤感觉火辣辣的。</p> <p class="ql-block">10:00,我们离开打卡地,驱车进入青溪高速入口。</p> <p class="ql-block">12:55,德清休息区</p> <p class="ql-block">14:45,我们抵达了甪直古镇</p><p class="ql-block">甪直镇隶属苏州市吴中区,位于苏州市东南部,北靠吴淞江,南临澄湖,西接苏新工业园区,东衔昆山,水路交通十分便捷。镇内河道纵横,素有“五湖之厅”(澄湖、万干湖、金鸡湖、独墅湖、阳澄湖)和“六泽之冲”(吴淞江、清水江、南塘江、界浦江、东塘江、大直江)之称。</p> <p class="ql-block">甪直原名“甫里”,因镇西有“甫里塘”而得名。后因镇东有直港,通向六处,水流形有酷如“甪”字,故改名为“甪直”。又传古代独角神兽“端”巡察神州大地路经甪直,见这里是一块风水宝地,因此就长期落在甪直,故而甪直有史以来就没有战荒,没有旱涝灾害,人们年年丰衣足食。</p> <p class="ql-block">甪直全镇总面积120平方公里,古镇区总面积1.04平方公里。</p><p class="ql-block">甪直具有2500多年的悠久历史,文化底蕴深厚,名胜古迹众多,人文景观棋布。甪直古名甫里,是太湖流域保存完好的水乡古镇,镇外湖、荡、潭、池星罗棋布,是典型的江南水乡。</p><p class="ql-block">多年来,甪直古镇已荣获了“国家AAAA级旅游区、中国历史文化名镇、全国环境优美镇、中国旅游名镇顾客十大满意品牌、中国最具吸引力的地方、中国民族建筑优秀魅力名镇”等荣誉称号。</p> <p class="ql-block">用直古镇旅游资源丰富,名胜古迹众多,人文景观星罗棋布。其中,保圣寺为江南名刹,寺内半堂塑壁罗汉堪称国宝,是首批全国重点文物保护单位;甪直水乡服饰被誉为中华服饰文化奇葩和水乡文化活化石,</p><p class="ql-block">2006年被列入全国首批非物质文化遗产。古镇内的叶圣陶纪念馆、沈宅、萧宅、王韬纪念馆、万盛米行、水乡妇女服饰馆、历史文物馆等历史人文景观品位高雅、别具特色,让游客在充分领略江南水乡风情的同时,更多地体味小镇深厚的历史文化内涵。</p> <p class="ql-block">游客中心码头</p> <p class="ql-block">“水乡泽国”牌坊</p> <p class="ql-block">甪直桥</p> <p class="ql-block">甪直古镇自2012年起被列入更新的《中国世界文化遗产预备名单》‌</p><p class="ql-block">‌国家级荣誉‌:包括国家4A级旅游景区、中国历史文化名镇、中国特色景观旅游名镇等称号‌。</p> <p class="ql-block">甪端广场</p> <p class="ql-block">15:00 我与太太沿下塘街向东而行,</p> <p class="ql-block">永宁桥</p> <p class="ql-block">甪直古镇的街道分为两类,沿河并行为街,河西、河北为上塘街,河南、河东为下塘街,多为商用房和居住地,一般街面宽2.5-5米。与河垂直为弄(巷),一般宽约1-3米,最悠远的巷子长达150米,里弄内的房屋有3进、5进…,也有仅容一人通过的备弄,是居住街坊之间的分隔。</p> <p class="ql-block">街巷都以石板或弹石铺成,流水通畅,雨停路干。两旁或商铺林立,或粉墙黛瓦。</p> <p class="ql-block">街上静悄悄的,没有多少游客</p> <p class="ql-block">永安桥</p><p class="ql-block">桥的基本功能是辅助交通,但其造型万千,风格多样,构成了古镇景致中的重要一笔。</p> <p class="ql-block">古镇房屋外部的木构部分多为褐、黑、墨绿等颜色,与白墙、灰瓦相映,色调雅素明净,与周围自然环境相得益彰,形成景色如画的水乡风貌。</p> <p class="ql-block">枕水阁楼,是江南古镇的典型建筑类型。江南古镇,在地理学上泛指“长江以南的古镇”,尤其以江南水乡古镇为典型。江南水乡古镇的建筑大多贴水而筑,临水而建。小桥流水人家,是水乡建筑的最大特点。</p> <p class="ql-block">枕河人家是一卷风俗民情画,主人用水方便自不待说,还可在河埠石级上捣衣洗菜,闲坐石栏上喝茶聊天,或看乌蓬船悠悠划过,一派“朱门白壁枕湾流”“家家门外泊舟航”的动人景象。</p> <p class="ql-block">水乡河多桥也多,多就地取材,以石筑桥,又为方便河中小舟穿行而桥拱隆起。</p> <p class="ql-block">跨过香花桥,香花弄的北端就是保圣寺了。</p> <p class="ql-block">香花桥是我们在甪直遇到的最有特色的石桥之一,望柱上雕有对称的石狮,彰显了石桥的威严。</p><p class="ql-block">香花桥为清乾隆之前(约1735年前)‌,单孔石拱桥,花岗石材质,桥面两侧设方形望柱和栏杆,中间4根望柱上雕刻有蹲坐的小狮子,栏杆两端为抱鼓石‌。桥身造型精巧,保留清代石雕工艺,兼具实用性与艺术性。</p><p class="ql-block">因邻近保圣寺(江南四大古刹之一),“香花”寓意“香火”,反映其宗教背景‌。</p> <p class="ql-block">香花弄的建筑,斑驳的墙面,显示了年代的久远。</p> <p class="ql-block">井亭</p><p class="ql-block">方形亭体,四角飞举,曲线优美。粉墙漏窗,简洁明快。体量轻盈,小巧秀雅。亭中设井一眼,井水清澈甘冽。寺前设井,实例不多,具有一定的地方特色。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">The Well Pavilion</p><p class="ql-block">This elegantly proportioned square pavilion features gracefully upturned eaves at each corner, their sweeping curves embodying classical Chinese architectural aesthetics. Its whitewashed walls, punctuated by lattice windows, create a harmonious balance of simplicity and refinement.</p><p class="ql-block">At the heart of the structure lies a crystal-clear well. The well water is clear, cool, and sweet. Such well-pavilion combinations at temple entrances remain rare in Chinese architecture, making this a distinctive example of regional design traditions.</p> <p class="ql-block">15:20 保圣寺</p><p class="ql-block">保圣寺创建于梁天监二年(503),至今已有1500多年历史。是“南朝四百八十寺”之一,积淀了丰富的文化遗存。寺内有六朝造像石、唐代经幢、北宋幡杆夹石、明代建筑天王殿、清初铸铁大钟,而最为珍贵的镇寺之宝,当推唐代塑圣杨惠之所作的罗汉塑像塑壁,1961年公布为全国重点文物保护单位。寺西院,有碑廊、唐代诗人陆龟蒙墓及现代教育家叶圣陶纪念馆。寺内的千年银杏、百年枸杞和紫藤,并称“古木三绝”。</p> <p class="ql-block">Baosheng Temple</p><p class="ql-block">The temple was built in 503 CE (the second year of the Liangtianjian period of the Southem Dynasty) with a history of over 1,500 years. There are a number of cultural relics in the temple such as the rock statues of the Six Dynasties(222-589), sutra pillars of the Tang Dynasty(618-907), paired flagpole pillars of the North Song Dynasty(960-1120), the Hall of Heavenly Kings of the Ming Dynasty(1368-1644), and a large cast iron bell of the early Qing Dynasty(1644-1912), etc. Among them, the statues of arhats made by master sculptor Yang Huizhi in the Tang Dynasty are the most precious treasure of the temple, which were designated as a key national-level cultural heritage site in 1961. In the west courtyard of the temple, there is a stele corridor, the tomb of the Tang Dynasty poet Lu Gimeng and the memorial hall of the renowned educator Ye Shengtao in modern times. The temple also boasts the millennium-old ginkgos, century-old wolfberry and ancient wisterias, which are together called "Three Unique Ancient Woods"</p> <p class="ql-block">百年枸杞</p><p class="ql-block">作为爬藤植物,百岁有余,为寺内古木“三绝”之一的稀奇之物。老本枸杞,穿云裂石,垂持于湖石峰顶。初春银枝隐翠,盛夏紫花争艳,深秋红果漫冠,寒冬苍藤抱石。一木四季成趣,韵致横生,不妨细细品味。</p> <p class="ql-block">Ancient Wisteria</p><p class="ql-block">With its rugged, time-worn trunk and luxuriant foliage casting pools of dappled shade, this magnificent wisteria truly lives up to the poetic description "a single sprawling frame creating its own forest world". Its ancient branches twist and intertwine in mesmerizing patterns - now coiling like playful serpents, now arching like soaring dragons frozen in mid-flight.</p><p class="ql-block">Come mid-spring, the vine transforms into a breathtaking spectacle as countless delicate pale-purple blossoms burst forth in cascading clusters, each flower shaped like a tiny butterfly taking wing. This annual floral pageant never fails to captivate visitors, who linger beneath the perfumed canopy in quiet wonder.</p><p class="ql-block">Having weathered centuries of seasons, this remarkable plant - where gnarled old wood continually gives birth to tender new growth - stands as one of the temple's celebrated "Three Arboreal Marvels". More than mere vegetation, it represents nature's enduring artistry and the timeless Chinese appreciation for beauty that deepens with age.</p> <p class="ql-block">北宋幡杆夹石</p> <p class="ql-block">听松轩</p> <p class="ql-block">天王殿</p><p class="ql-block">明崇祯三年(1630)重建。面阔三间,进深七檩。单檐歇山顶,简瓦覆盖。戗角起翘,轻巧若飞。微有“侧脚”的角柱和“四铺作插昂”斗拱,仍存宋代建筑遗风。而浮雕“神童牡丹”纹饰的覆盘式柱础,系宋代原物。该殿是研究明代建筑的绝好实物资料。</p> <p class="ql-block">Hall of the Heavenly Kings</p><p class="ql-block">Rebuilt in the 3rd year of the Chongzhen reign (1630), this structure features a thre-bay facade and seven-purlin depth. Its single-eave hip-and-gable roof is covered with cylindrical tiles, with upturned flying eaves creating an elegant soaring effect. The slightly inclined corner columns (cèjião) and bracket sets with downward-pointing cantilever arms (sipuzuòchã'áng) retain distinct Song Dynasty architectural characteristics.</p><p class="ql-block">Notably, the inverted-bowl shaped column bases carved with "Divine Children and Peonies" relief patterns are original Song artifacts. This hall stands as an exceptional physical specimen for studying Ming Dynasty architecture.</p> <p class="ql-block">古紫藤</p><p class="ql-block">主杆粗拙道劲,枝繁叶茂,浓萌匝地,“蒙茸一架自成林”。虬枝交缠攀援,藤蔓弯曲回绕,似灵蛇相戏,如蛟龙飞舞。暮春三月,串串淡紫色蝶形花朵,烂漫绰约,引人驻足。老藤新枝,年复百载,为寺内古木“三绝”之一。</p> <p class="ql-block">Ancient Wisteria</p><p class="ql-block">With its rugged, time-worn trunk and luxuriant foliage casting pools of dappled shade, this magnificent wisteria truly lives up to the poetic description "a single sprawling frame creating its own forest world". Its ancient branches twist and intertwine in mesmerizing patterns - now coiling like playful serpents, now arching like soaring dragons frozen in mid-flight.</p><p class="ql-block">Come mid-spring, the vine transforms into a breathtaking spectacle as countless delicate pale-purple blossoms burst forth in cascading clusters, each flower shaped like a tiny butterfly taking wing. This annual floral pageant never fails to captivate visitors, who linger beneath the perfumed canopy in quiet wonder.</p><p class="ql-block">Having weathered centuries of seasons, this remarkable plant - where gnarled old wood continually gives birth to tender new growth - stands as one of the temple's celebrated "Three Arboreal Marvels". More than mere vegetation, it represents nature's enduring artistry and the timeless Chinese appreciation for beauty that deepens with age.</p> <p class="ql-block">大铁钟</p><p class="ql-block">铁钟通高1.8米,口径1.12米,壁厚0.11米,重约1.5吨。钟顶提梁为双首四爪龙式,造型生动。钟口外撇,呈多瓣莲花状,曲线委婉。</p><p class="ql-block">钟具上部环铸凸弦纹框面,中部四面铸有“国泰民安”、“八方无灾"、“风调雨顺”、“五谷丰登”。钟体秀美,质地坚实,撞之有声,体现了我国明末清初高超的治炼技艺。</p><p class="ql-block"><br></p> <p class="ql-block">Da Tiezhong (Great Iron Bell)</p><p class="ql-block">The iron bell stands 1.8 meters tall, with a diameter of 1.12 meters and a wall thickness of 0.11 meters, weighing approximately 1.5 tons. The bell's top handle is shaped like a double-headed, four-clawed dragon, crafted in a vivid and dynamic style. The bell's mouth flares outward, forming a graceful mult-petal lotus shape with elegant curves. The upper part of the bell body is encircled with raised decorative bands, while the midsection is cast with four inscriptions: "A Prosperous Nation and a Thriving People",</p><p class="ql-block">"Freedom from Calamity in All Directions", 'Favorable Winds and Timely Rains", and "Bumper Harvests of All Grains". The bell is exquisitely shaped, solid in structure, and produces a resonant sound when struck, reflecting the advanced metallurgical craftsmanship of late Ming and early Qing China.</p> <p class="ql-block">保圣寺经幢</p><p class="ql-block">经幢是唐代创始的一种佛教石刻。保圣寺经幢始建于唐大中八年(854),后经历代修缮,现存部分为宋代风格。经幢以青石雕凿,共分为17层,分基座、幢身和幢顶三部分。幢身刻有《佛顶尊胜陀罗尼经》经文及佛教浮雕图案,工艺精湛,体现了唐宋时期江南地区佛教艺术的独特风格。经幢造型庄重,保存完好,是研究古代佛教文化、建筑与雕刻艺术的重要实物资料。</p> <p class="ql-block">Baosheng Temple Sutra Pillar</p><p class="ql-block">The sutra pillar is a type of Buddhist stone carving originating from the Tang Dynasty. The Baosheng Temple Sutra Pillar was first erected in the 8th year of the Dazhong era (854) during the Tang Dynasty and underwent repairs in subsequent dynasties, with the existing structure reflecting the Song Dynasty style. Carved from bluestone, the pillar consists of seventeen tiers and is divided into three parts: the base, the shaft, and the top.</p><p class="ql-block">The shaft is inscribed with the UsnisaVijayaDharani Sutra and decorated with intricate Buddhist reliefs,</p><p class="ql-block">demonstrating the superb craftsmanship and unique artistic style of Jiangnan Buddhist art during the Tang and Song periods. With its solemn form and excellent preservation, the sutra pillar serves as a significant historical artifact for the study of ancient Buddhist culture, architecture, and sculptural art.</p> <p class="ql-block">(未完待续)</p>