2025 0505 葡萄牙杜罗峡谷 Douro Valley

劳伦斯

5月4日
今天我们从波尔图坐火车去杜罗峡谷。

星期天的巴士少，早上的巴士更是没有按时到达，我们决定还是走到火车站去保险一点。酒店到火车站距离有3公里，半路开始下雨了，还好一路都是走下坡，带着行李没有太麻烦。

May 4th
Today, we would take the train from Porto to the Douro Valley.

There were fewer buses on Sunday, and our morning bus did not arrive on time. We decided it was safer to walk to the train station. The distance from our hotel to the station was about 3 kilometres. Halfway through, the weather started to rain, but luckily, it was all downhill—so carrying our luggage wasn't a much trouble.

罗河谷作为世界上最古老的葡萄酒产区，以其独特的自然风光闻名遐迩。湛蓝清澈的杜罗河水蜿蜒流淌，两岸层叠的葡萄梯田依山而建，共同勾勒出一幅壮丽的自然画卷。 As the world's oldest wine-producing region, the Douro Valley is renowned for its breathtaking natural beauty. The crystal-clear blue waters of the Douro River meander through the landscape, while terraced vineyards cascade along the canyon slopes, together painting a magnificent natural masterpiece. 波尔图到杜罗河谷的观光列车服务没有受到正在罢工的影响。

一辆老式的柴油机机车，以30公里/小时的速度，沿着杜罗河畔载着我们踏上历史之旅。

The tourist train service from Porto to the Douro Valley was not affected by the ongoing strike.

An old diesel locomotive, running at a speed of 30 km/h, carried us on a historical journey along the banks of the Douro River.

这一段区域被联合国教科文组织列为世界遗产。我们从车厢大窗户观赏沿途风景。

老式车厢里只有一排一排的大座位，没有显示屏，没有喇叭广播。列车途经停站，乘客要自己知道在哪一站下车，就连那二扇大铁门也得自己打开。
This section of the area is listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. We enjoyed the scenery along the way from the large windows of the carriage.

In the old-fashioned carriage, there were only rows of large benches, no display screens, no announcement. The train making stops on the way, the passengers had to know where to get off. Even the two big metal doors had to be opened by ourselves.
我们在雷加站下车。雷加正式名称是佩索达雷加 。佩索达雷加坐落于杜罗河河畔，在波特酒的生产和销售中发挥着重要作用，因为酒桶从这里通过被称为 “拉贝洛” 的特殊平底木船运，穿过狭窄的河谷，运往加亚新城。葡萄酒则存放在当地的葡萄酒窖中陈酿。 We got off at the Régua station. Régua, also known as Peso da Régua. Situated on the banks of the River Douro, Peso da Régua played a fundamental role in the production and sale of Port wine, for it was from here that the barrels were transported in the special boats known as barcos rabelos, a flat-bottomed wooden boat, to navigate the narrow river gorge to Vila Nova de Gaia, where the wine was left to age in the local wine lodges. 雷加站到我们酒店还有十几公里。夏夏眼快，看到路边有一辆大的出租车，马上叫住，载我们去拉梅戈镇的酒店。

From Rega station, it was still more than ten kilometres to our hotel. Xia-Xia was quick to notice a large taxi on the side of the road, so she immediately stopped it and took us to the hotel in Lamego Town.
拉梅戈也是一个小镇。酒店的前台人都没有。我们请打扫房间的阿姨打电话去叫人，我们乘等候的时间，就地把随身带的面包当午餐了。

Lamego is also a small town. There was no one at the hotel front desk. We asked the cleaning lady to call someone, and while we were waiting, we ate the bread we brought with us for lunch.
5月5日
今天游览杜罗峡谷。整个行程是121公里。我们包了昨天租用过的出租车去杜罗山区和河边游览。

May 5th
Today we would tour the Douro Valley. The entire journey covered 121 kilometres. We hired the same taxi we used yesterday to explore both the Douro Mountain area and the riverside.
第一站是维拉雷亚尔（意为“皇家城镇”）始于1272年，是一座繁荣的农业中心，坐落于群山环绕的高原上。1895年，它成为葡萄牙第一个通电的城镇。

First stop was Vila Real (meaning "Royal Town"), founded in 1272 as a thriving agricultural centre on a plateau surrounded by mountains. In 1895, it became the first town in Portugal to have electricity.
维拉雷亚尔的市政厅建于19世纪。

Vila Real town hall was built in the 19th century.
一个工作人员热情地欢迎地我们参观，还让我们进了市政厅的会议室。另有一位女工作人员还让我们坐上会议室市长的桌子和市议员和官员们的椅子，主动还给我们拍照。

A staff member warmly welcomed us and let us into their meeting hall. Another female staff member even let us sat in the mayor's table and the chairs of the councillors; and she offered to take group photos for us.
市政厅里有一个小小的咖啡室。我们进去的时候工作人员也开始晨间休息。我们想把空间让给他们；咖啡室有规矩，吃喝的东西都不能够拿出去。我们就只能在这挤满人的小咖啡馆里凑热闹。
There's a small coffee room inside the city hall. When we entered, the staff had just begun their morning break. We were leaving to give them the space, but café rules prohibited taking food or drinks outside. So, we stayed put and joined the bustle in that crowded little café. 维拉雷亚尔大教堂。

Vila Real Cathedral.
维拉雷亚尔城内拥有众多引人入胜的古老建筑，其外墙采用优雅的石材装饰，门廊上装饰着原主人的盾徽，许多原主人的后代至今仍然居住于此。 Vila Real is home to many fascinating old buildings with elegant stone facades, their portals adorned with the coats of arms of the original owners, with many of whose descendants still live here today. 马特乌斯宫是一座位于维拉雷亚尔市的宫殿。其主要建筑包括庄园、酒庄和教堂。

酒庄建筑可追溯至 16 世纪，葡萄牙著名的半甜型桃红起泡酒，蜜桃红（Mateus）品牌就是出自这里。 1910 年，酒庄被列为国家历史文物。宫殿现归马特乌斯基金会所有。
The Palácio de Mateus is a palace located in Vila Real. The three primary buildings are the manor, the winery and the chapel.

The winery buildings date from the 16th century and were modified in the 1800s. It gives the name to the Mateus rosé wine brand. In 1910, it was classified as a National Monument. The palace is owned by the Mateus Foundation.
马特乌斯宫花园是经典的法式花园，花园于1930年进行了扩建。在20世纪50年代和60年代，并增加了湖泊，如同一面镜子映照着庄园的景色。20世纪70年代，这里又种植了茂密的栗树和橡树。通过修剪灌木和乔木植物 ，创造人工化的“自然美”。1981年在水中安装了“沉睡”的女子雕塑。 The Mateus Palace Gardens are classic French gardens. The gardens were expanded in 1930. In the 1950s and 1960s, a lake was added, reflecting the estate's scenery like a mirror. and in the 1970s, dense chestnut and oak trees were planted here. By trimming shrubs and trees, artificial "natural beauty" is created. The sculpture of a "sleeping" woman in the water was installed in 1981. 下一站是萨布罗萨，这里至今仍保留着新石器时代定居点的各种遗迹，以及一些铁器时代的山顶堡垒。

萨布罗萨是十五世纪葡萄牙伟大航海家、首位环球航行者费尔南·德·麦哲伦的出生地。
我们沿着蜿蜒的乡间小路追寻他的根源，寻找这位探险家童年的故居。
Our next stop was Sabrosa, it still retains various features from the time of its settlement in the Neolithic period and some hill-top forts from the Iron Age.

Sabrosa was the birthplace of Fernão de Magalhães (Magellan), - Portugal's legendary navigator who pioneered global circumnavigation. We traced his roots along winding country paths, searching for the explorer's childhood home.
司机推荐我们去“门户酒庄”午餐。

Our driver recommended to have lunch at Casa das Pipas / Quinta do Portal.
杜罗河谷在秋高气爽的日子里葡萄藤蔓覆盖的山坡呈现出深红色、赤褐色和金色的色彩，空气中弥漫着浓郁的葡萄香气。在九月葡萄酒收获季节，许多的游客加入葡萄酒庄工人采摘葡萄，修剪葡萄藤。有几家酒庄游客也可以体验赤脚在他们称之为“拉加雷斯”的传统花岗岩槽中尽情踩踏葡萄。 In the crisp autumn air of the Douro Valley, the vine-covered slopes blaze in deep crimson, russet, and gold, while the scent of ripe grapes hangs heavy in the air. During September's harvest season, visitors join vineyard workers to pick clusters and prune vines. At select quintas, visitors can even experience the traditional grape-stomping barefoot in granite troughs called 'lagares' - a winemaking ritual unchanged for centuries. 今天的餐厅里只有我们二台人。因为是淡季餐厅只提供一个品尝菜单。我们再要了一瓶酒庄自产的白葡萄酒。干杯!

We were the only two group diners in the restaurant today. Since it's the off-season, the restaurant offered only a tasting menu. We also ordered a bottle of the estate's house white—Cheers!
N313-2号公路如丝带般缠绕在起伏的群山之间，狭窄的车道迫使车辆在攀升途中不断急转。半小时后，我们抵达杜罗峡谷的制高点——圣莱昂纳多-迪加拉富拉观景台。山谷的壮丽景色尽收眼底：杜罗河游走于两边陡峭的梯田葡萄园之间，在群山中绵延数公里。 The N313-2 highway snakes through winding hills, its narrow lanes demanding constant sharp turns as our car climbs upward. Half an hour later, we reach the pinnacle of the Douro Gorge—the São Leonardo de Galafura viewpoint. Before us unfolds a breathtaking panorama: the serpentine Douro River carving through steep terraced vineyards that stretch for kilometres. 接着，我们从杜罗河峡谷山顶的观景台驱车来到河谷的底部，皮尼昂小镇。

Next, we drove from the commanding heights of the Douro Valley Viewpoint to the bottom of the valley, the small town of Pinhão.
皮尼昂小镇火车站的墙壁上装饰着精美的瓷砖，保存完好的大型面板描绘了周边地区。这里是游客打卡热点。

The walls of the Pinhão train are decorated with exquisite tiles and large, well-preserved panels depicting the surrounding area. The train station is a popular spot for tourists to check in.
今天仅有少数的游客。在一年一度葡萄采摘的秋季，来自各地的采摘爱好者汇聚在小镇，小镇欢声笑语不断，变得热闹非凡。

Only a handful of visitors were here today. But during the annual autumn grape harvest, the town comes alive with laughter and excitement as picking enthusiasts from all over converge on this little village.
回酒店之前司机带我们来到又一个山顶观光点。这个隐居的观光点处位于上杜罗河谷更高的山头上，海拔约730米处。这里可以俯瞰到周边十个大大小小镇的壮丽景色。

Before heading back to the hotel, our driver took us to another mountaintop viewpoint. Tucked away in the Upper Douro Valley at an elevation of about 730 meters. This secluded spot offers a breathtaking panoramic view of ten surrounding towns and villages scattered across the landscape.
山顶上还有一座教堂，它被一片宽阔的空地环绕，周围环绕着围墙和栏杆。教堂外的说明：教堂位于一块花岗岩露头上，这块岩石被认为是祈求生育的岩石，这一传统源于原始罗马对生育女神的崇拜，许多君主都曾前往此处祈求神灵保佑子孙后代。

There is a church on the top of the hill, surrounded by a large churchyard and surrounded by walls and railings. Explanation outside the church: The church is located on a granite outcrop, which is believed to be a rock for praying for fertility. This tradition originated from the primitive Roman worship of the fertility goddess. Many monarchs have gone here to pray to the gods to bless their offspring.
我们的司机叫何塞·努诺，原来经营一家小的旅游公司，有五辆小型旅游车。2020年新冠疫情之后生意下落，这几年他把车子都卖了。他刚到出租车公司上班。 公司里有一辆大的商务的士，他有开这类型车的驾照。 今天是他上班的第五天，就带我们在杜罗河谷旅游。正因如此，凭借多年的经验，他今天轻松地在杜罗河谷弯曲险峻的山路上穿梭自如。
Our driver, José Nuno, used to run a small tourism company with five minibuses. After the pandemic hit in 2020, his business collapsed. Over the past few years, he sold off all his vehicles and recently started working for a taxi company. Though they have a large passenger van in their fleet—which he's licensed to drive—today marked only his fifth day on the job. That's why, with his years of experience, he navigated the treacherous mountain roads of the Douro Valley with ease today. 当我们从观景台下来，返回车上时，何塞给了我们一个惊喜：他拿出父亲酿的波特酒，还有他亲手烤的小蛋糕。憨厚诚朴的何塞请我们一起分享他的喜悦。这份真挚如同礼物，——出乎意料，却又甜蜜——比波特酒更醇厚，比蛋糕更甜蜜！ As we descended from the viewpoint and headed back to the car, José surprised us with homemade port wine made by his father and little cakes he had baked himself. Kind-hearted José shared his simple joy as genuine as the gifts. That gesture—unexpected and sweet—that felt richer than the port and sweeter than the cakes! 本期美篇的照片和视频均由我们大家提供，并共同创作。
The photos and videos in this edition of Meipian were provided by all of us, and the narratives were created together.