2024苏格兰高地徒步,-West Highland Way Day 5️⃣,04/30/2024

可妮视角

<p class="ql-block">Stage 5 - Tyndrum to Inveroran</p><p class="ql-block">A shorter and easier stage today. After the initial climb from Tyndrum the route gives easy walking through the glen floor with road and railway alongside to reach the Bridge of Orchy under the dominating Beinn Dorian Mountain and continue on to the beautiful but isolated Inveroran Hotel.</p><p class="ql-block">Stage 6 - Inveroran to Kingshouse</p><p class="ql-block">Today we have the opportunity to cross Rannoch Moor, one of the classic stages of the West Highland Way. Following the line of Telford's Parliamentary Road across an otherwise vast wilderness of heather and bog encircled by grand mountains.</p><p class="ql-block">In fine weather this is a place of otherworldly beauty - in a storm it is wild, forbidding and exposed at Kingshouse, the historic Inn located in brooding Glencoe.</p> <p class="ql-block">第五日因为有20英里的超长徒步计划,我们7:45am已经吃完冷早餐打开佳明走入了细雨,小镇Tyndrum远远看一眼,蛮热闹的;</p> <p class="ql-block">黑脸羊羊来跟我们道别吗?我们遇见过吗?</p> <p class="ql-block">昨天雨中行,我们忙着夺路而逃,竟然没有一张集体照,今天补,狠狠的补😂。</p> <p class="ql-block">而昨日的大雨也催生了不少后备方案,脑子里仿佛有很多计划,万一雨大就打的?如果风狂就不走?……只是我们脚步依然坚定地走入了眼前的峡谷(英文是Glen,Valley的一种),我更换上了黑科技鸟衣来抵挡无可躲避的雨。</p> <p class="ql-block">A glen is a valley, typically one that is long and bounded by gently sloped concave sides, unlike a ravine, which is deep and bounded by steep slopes. </p> <p class="ql-block">Stage5&6的20英里的前路唯一可以不是特别担心的是路况本身相对“EASY”,看着眼前遮天蔽日的如盖重云,理工徒蜜仲瑶研究好了云雨图乐观表示“今天的雨量小很多,但有二个雨阵经过此域”,且看我们如何算计这一路的雨😜。</p> <p class="ql-block">山石上挂下的水帘,算是“有名的瀑布吗”?现在看到任何此类地理现象,都会笑侃一番,算是我们独家拥有的一个梗。</p> <p class="ql-block">这个漂亮周正的锥形山头是进入Glen的第一眼,哪个Beinn呢?</p> <p class="ql-block">我们在山谷里绕着走,脚下曾经是军用公路,感谢和平年代的到来;二个shapely mountain Beinn Odhar 和 Beinn Dorain 在右手边了,</p> <p class="ql-block">正见火车在山脚环行,</p> <p class="ql-block">牛牛也耒抢占我们的步行道,谁怕谁?(冬青最喜欢的抓拍),</p> <p class="ql-block">其实我们是耒求合影呀🥹。</p> <p class="ql-block">风声鹤唳,凄雨绵绵,今天真的容易走吗?</p> <p class="ql-block">跨过铁轨,咦,我们的睡觉夜行火车也达到这里 Bridge of Orchy,a village in Glen Orchy in Argyll and Bute, Scotland. It is named after the crossing over the River Orchy, which was constructed by British Army during the pacification of the Highland Clans following the Battle of Culloden in 1746. </p> <p class="ql-block">进入小村庄,</p> <p class="ql-block">第一个雨阵中,于10:30am到达the Bridge of Orchy Hotel,走得不慢(已走七英里),果断进入,</p> <p class="ql-block">一杯热热的Cappuccino一块甜美的香蕉蛋糕,弥补冷早餐的缺憾,又正好躲过头顶上正在倾泻的雨水;</p> <p class="ql-block">墙上的画是夏日正午与冬季黄昏的Buachaille Etive Mòr?山色湖光冏然不同,野牛淌水戏嬉,好喜欢。</p> <p class="ql-block">再次走上步道时,第一阵云雨果然已经北去,成功躲过雨阵尾势大雨;一缕阳光透过云层洒到了我们身上,真的只有失去了才晓得什么是最可珍贵的东西呀!</p> <p class="ql-block">Bridge of Orchy,站在上面看风景;</p> <p class="ql-block">也在穿越WHW的狗狗凑热闹,端坐中间,真会上相👍。</p> <p class="ql-block">再回首,所有的屋宇浓缩成了一个小村庄,渐渐退出了视线,再见了👋……旅行,是相遇与告别,与难忘的风景与攀谈的同道与追求的目标!</p> <p class="ql-block">仲瑶干了什么?😂😂😂</p> <p class="ql-block">Loch Tulla 与 Black Mountain相携出现了,我们走上了无名的高地;</p> <p class="ql-block">今天第三张集体照!路人甲乙丙丁真不少呢。</p> <p class="ql-block">从高地下来便是Lowlands了,Inveroran Hotel是stage 5的终点,今天的必经必停之地,不知为什么餐厅不开放,服务员十分生硬让大家去酒吧间,傻傻站了一会儿,愿意拼桌也坐位不够,肚皮也没那么饿,走吧,</p> <p class="ql-block">Hotel 外墙上的图不错,收集了一路的图示,</p> <p class="ql-block">还有很长的路等着我们,再好走也是路呀,</p> <p class="ql-block">目测河水非常浅,清澈见底,</p> <p class="ql-block">咦,这里有孔雀,拍照真不配合,头太小肯定比狗狗笨🥲,</p> <p class="ql-block">路标把我们引到了 Telford’s Parliamentary road. Named after Thomas Telford, a Scottish engineer commissioned to improve travel throughout Scotland. These roads were used not only by military troops but by local farmers driving cattle and other livestock to market. 军用商用民用,造福一方百姓的一条老路,今天我们来了;</p> <p class="ql-block">The path got much flatter after the pull up through the trees, and the landscape opened out with absolutely wonderful views in all directions! Telford Road 从Rannoch Moor 当中穿了进去,</p> <p class="ql-block">道旁的沼泽地是漂亮又可怕,荒凉没有尽头!</p> <p class="ql-block">远远望去,一座又一座圆润的Bonnie 山头,这是苏格兰高地的标志。the Scots language word "bonnie" means pretty, attractive.</p> <p class="ql-block">自拍,也可以有集体照,</p> <p class="ql-block">大步流星的走在Glen里,演了好几趟,实在喜欢这里的高端大气的苏格兰风。</p> <p class="ql-block">这桥真结实,结构十分紧凑合理,叫什么名?没有牌子有谷歌,结果谷歌起了个名“Rannoch Moor Bridge”,这真是偷懒了!真名是Ba Bridge,什么时候建的无从考证,Because Telford’s Road here coincides with the old military road, no one is sure whether was originally built by the army, or later by Telford’s commission (in the 1700s). </p> <p class="ql-block">大家都冲到桥下去拍照,挺好玩的,风景这玩意全看心情,雨阵终于着急忙慌的北上了,我们可不想追赶😂。</p> <p class="ql-block">远远望去又是一座桥,Bonnie! 沼泽地里都是水潭,“架桥铺路”拆不散的,</p> <p class="ql-block">我们又偷懒休息了一会儿,第五张集体照了。</p> <p class="ql-block">可以走到天荒地老……</p> <p class="ql-block">永不回头!我们真的是一条道走下去的😜,只要有闲话可以聊,我抛出惊天大瓜只为仲瑶可以忘记骨刺的疼痛.没想到真的有用。</p> <p class="ql-block">千万不要问我会不会变心😜!</p> <p class="ql-block">Big excitement when Buachaille Etive Mòr came into view!</p> <p class="ql-block">Glencoe mountain区域,main peaks that are known in the area are Bidean nam Bian, Aonach Eagach and Buachaille Etive Mor; however Glencoe is home to plenty of beautiful mountains. Geologically, Glencoe is part of the remains of the great range that stood almost 400 million years ago. Also Glen Coe is regarded as the home of Scottish mountaineering and is popular with hillwalkers and climbers.</p> <p class="ql-block">哇,有新人在这里拍婚纱照❣️</p> <p class="ql-block">今天的Glencoe特别brooding,绝对出大片呀,</p> <p class="ql-block">我坚决盛情要求与他们合影😂,</p> <p class="ql-block">私有领地神圣不可侵犯,</p> <p class="ql-block">可以天天看Buachaille Etive Mòr的日照金山,我保证不厌,</p> <p class="ql-block">Buachaille Etive Mor aerial view of West Highland Way walk path,苏格兰人宠爱的登顶之选。</p> <p class="ql-block">无缘靠近,多合几个影,</p> <p class="ql-block">这个角度实在美炸,</p> <p class="ql-block">干脆走入沼泽泥泞之中拍拍拍😂,</p> <p class="ql-block">我们目标Kinghouse Hotel,有一条高速公路cut through West Highland Way;路上车子疾施,这里没有礼让徒客一说,也实在荒郊野外的车速太快,停下耒非急刹车不可,我们耐心等一会即可;</p> <p class="ql-block">这一路强强虽是导航,却往往压阵,偶有出手纠偏,基本无事可干,于是挑起了拍我们背影的重担为副业,出超赞大片无数👍。</p> <p class="ql-block">The Kings House Hotel is a remote inn at the eastern end of Glen Coe in the Scottish Highlands. The inn, which is in an isolated position about 2 km east of Glen Etive, stands on the edge of Rannoch Moor. It faces Buachaille Etive Mor which makes it a popular hostelry with rock climbers. <span style="font-size:18px;">17pm稍过,我们终于到达了,今天徒步里程完成!我们今夜并不住此地,强强约定5:30pm,会有行程里已包含的Taxi把我们接到</span>Park View B&B @海滨小镇 Ballachulish。</p> <p class="ql-block">门口正有人拿胡萝卜喂野鹿,</p> <p class="ql-block">顿时忘了脚疼,冲上去拍照片,</p> <p class="ql-block">这鹿以为我们也有吃的?就这么凑了上来,辛亏没有大几角,好悬!</p> <p class="ql-block">5:30pm,的士准时出现,车子在Glen Coe里疾驰,窗外的一切令人神往,明天,期待明天。</p> <p class="ql-block">15分钟就到达目的地,哎,车程与脚程,真是不在一个层面。</p> <p class="ql-block">屋主本也是徒步爱好者,特别中意沙漠,典型的缺什么想什么症状😜,忙季经营着小旅馆,淡季走世界。墙上挂着诺大的世界地图,他让我们在中国960万平方公里上贴标记,盼望中国人可以多起耒。</p> <p class="ql-block">出门觅食,天边的乌云已撕开了口子,太阳光☀️抚上了山脊;</p> <p class="ql-block">樱花树下的风景,与Glencoe反差太大了。</p> <p class="ql-block">苏格兰菜单翻不出花样来,</p> <p class="ql-block">我又点了炸鱼,靠海的鱼必须也真新鲜,吃了一片冬青的Pizza,炸土豆给强强,我们吃成了一家人。</p> <p class="ql-block">再来一个冰淇淋,原味就图个奶香,完美。</p> <p class="ql-block">今天的苏高兰高地愈发雄浑壮阔,连片的积雨云,转瞬即逝的阳光,在潮湿冷酷的荒原上,只有徒步客的身影,还有羊牛与鹿的日常;当雨点如约而来,又很温柔很轻巧很迅捷地掠过只留下满天的乱云,至此我们开启了狂拍模式,尽情享受着a place of otherworldly beauty……</p><p class="ql-block">Hoka依然给力,我的脚步轻快无比,但徒蜜的脚跟骨刺真的疼啊,见她后半程止痛药片一颗又一颗已经不太管用,我们讲着笑话大瓜分散她的注意力,终于5pm到达了Kingshouse。</p><p class="ql-block">今天轻轻松松拿下一路向北的20.5英里,爬升仅2618英尺。</p>