<p class="ql-block">跑马拉松真的是我的副业，徒步在山山水水之间才是我的终极目标！但终究我要以怎样的态度来对待每一程呢？喜欢闺蜜苏格兰老公引用John Muir 的这段话：Hiking - "I don't like either the word or the thing. People ought to saunter in the mountains - not hike! Do you know the origin of that word 'saunter?' It's a beautiful word. Away back in the Middle Ages people used to go on pilgrimages to the Holy Land, and when people in the villages through which they passed asked where they were going, they would reply, 'A la sainte terre, 'To the Holy Land.' And so they became known as sainte-terre-ers or saunterers. Now these mountains are our Holy Land, and we ought to saunter through them reverently, not 'hike' through them." But，此刻的我还沒有答案。</p> <p class="ql-block">在计划伦马的时候，徒步苏格兰高地是必须要有的安排，很幸运有同道，跑蜜冬青第一时间说YES，徒蜜仲瑶夫妇未久也决定加入，四人成队啦！走过此路的大师兄提供了关键信息，很快我们决定由EASYWAYS WALKING SCOTLAND安排<span style="font-size:18px;">住宿与行李托运</span>，全程照搬大师兄的West Highland Way七天八夜（4/25-5/3/2024）self-guided 徒步计划，从Milngavie 到fort William，总长96英里（154公里)，苏格兰的第一条徒步长路并长期占据受欢迎榜首，徒步爱好者必须打卡的精典。</p><p class="ql-block">仲瑶问我“抓她是不是因为要她来计划？”，这肯定不是原因，但从此由她来操持真的是必然的结果，谁让她长了一个AI脑袋还携带强强保镖，我再费个什么劲？时不时出个漏子还让她笑话；当然我也有优点，立马完全放弃自主想法，进入一切行动听指挥的模式，连功课也不做了😭。</p> <p class="ql-block">冬青与我，先期到达伦敦，4/21跑完了伦马之后分头行动数天，4/24又汇合，当晚上了11:45pm的夜行火车CALEDONIAN SLEEPER，躺平着于第二天早上7:30am到达苏格兰第一大工业重镇Glasgow，从这里我们再坐区间地铁前往徙步起点Milngavie 。</p> <p class="ql-block">喜欢欧洲的夜行火车，妥妥麻雀虽小五脏俱全，而且十分干净，省了时间省了酒店费用，而且火车站都在市中心交通方便，一直是我心目中的欧洲长徒迁徙首选。这不我才建议了一下，冬青便噼里啪啦订好了票，无忧启程啦。</p> <p class="ql-block">早上6am火车上供应了周正的苏格兰早餐，美味佳肴谈不上，倒有我极喜的豆子，肚子饱了就有力气开逛了，</p> <p class="ql-block">看起来睡得不错吧😜。</p> <p class="ql-block">火车真准时，今时今日更感慨了！火车站寄存行李，轻轻松松地走上了街头，踏上了苏格兰的土地，天空飘着吹不散的浓云，气候明显比伦敦暖和，而接下来的日子真的是越北越暖，什么情况？</p> <p class="ql-block">几步之遥即是Glascow市中心George Square,</p> <p class="ql-block">Good Morning，发明蒸汽机的瓦特先生，我的记忆里有太多的英国科学家与艺术家了！</p> <p class="ql-block">而就在近旁的Mural Trail @ Glasgow 太过惊艳！</p> <p class="ql-block">Fellow Glasgow Residents，it shows all types of animals found in Glasgow’s parks and green space appearing through what looks like holes in the wall，晴蓝天色下，着实华彩夺目。</p> <p class="ql-block">春天的繁花盛开，是Mural Trail上的画龙点睛，这不正是我向往的苏格兰春天？</p> <p class="ql-block">冬青讲早上查了Glasgow玩什么，Mural Trail第一个跳了出来，让二眼一抹黑就坐上了夜行火车的我根本没有料到苏格兰第一站竟然亮瞎了双眼。因为这些街头艺术，断然否绝了进Museum的选项。</p><p class="ql-block">Strathclyde University，The “Wonderwall” celebrates the people of the University of Strathclyde and their many significant achievements. Almost 200 metres long from start to finish and incorporating three 7- storey gables the project was completed by Art Pistol with Rogue-One and Ejek.</p> <p class="ql-block">the Dansken equatorial telescope featured, which was once used to teach nautical astronomy. And the Land-Ship was a mock up navigation bridge on the roof of the School of Navigation in the Royal College, used to teach the principles of compass adjustment.</p> <p class="ql-block">St Enoch and Child (#2 Glasgow Mural Trail)，The mural is a contemporary interpretation of the city's founding story; St Thenue/Enoch cradling her beloved St Kentigern/Mungo. 满满母爱的光辉！</p> <p class="ql-block">St. Mungo (#3 Glasgow Mural Trail，他就是St Enoch怀中的小宝宝)，Glasgow的主保圣人，发现了艺术家愿意用圣人救治小鸟来表达宽仁与神力，这样一来圣人们护助穷苦大众应该更不在话下了。</p> <p class="ql-block">走过Strathclyde University最古老的校园，</p> <p class="ql-block">一路走来，一路赞叹，我跟着冬青一起去探访Glasgow Cathedral，the most complete medieval cathedral on the Scottish mainland, having survived the Protestant Reformation almost intact. 苏格兰留存最完整的中世纪天主教堂，始建于1100s，现在仍然提供功能服务。</p> <p class="ql-block">每天9:30am教堂方打开大门迎接访客，此刻黑门紧闭，晨光下的梨花正婀娜盛开。</p> <p class="ql-block">环顾四周一派早春明媚生机盎然，</p> <p class="ql-block">苏格兰在我心中投影出无以形容的纤细柔美。</p> <p class="ql-block">我们是今天的第一批访客，带上耳机听起了历史，照片里是曾经的白色内墙，如今已全部是裸露的大石头，愈发厚重而显得拙朴；</p> <p class="ql-block">我的眼睛永远盯着 stunning stained glass window, 里面才是看不够的风景色彩和故事。</p> <p class="ql-block">The awe-inspiring building dedicated to St Kentigern, also known as St Mungo, was built in the 1100s and drew countless pilgrims to his shrine. </p> <p class="ql-block">找到了后庭玻璃窗上的Glasgow主保圣人 St Kentigern（亦称 St Mungo)：Kentigern is believed to have been the first bishop of the area that is modern Strathclyde. His influence spread widely, and it was later claimed he led a diocese stretching from Loch Lomond to Cumbria. It’s thought that Kentigern was buried on the cathedral site around 612.</p> <p class="ql-block">晨光透过了玻璃窗洒入，斑驳的彩影随形，幽暗的肃穆的中堂竟也活泼生动起来；</p> <p class="ql-block">画，总会赢得我的青睐，这里值得拍的只有一幅？ 反正很少，想念意大利了。诞生的耶稣被一束光影追着，很卡拉瓦桥，圣母与圣婴的头上均没有光环，巴洛克久矣，画面更具人性平和的魅力。</p> <p class="ql-block">教堂里的玻璃彩窗多是1800s开始换上的古典主义艺术，由各大家族与信众捐建，唯有二扇是当代作品，除了层次丰富的色彩，又能从中端祥出什么呢？我的脑子里全是草泥马，乱云飞！😂</p> <p class="ql-block">Step down into the crypt built in the mid-1200s to house the tomb of St Mungo (St Kentigern)。</p> <p class="ql-block">THE SACRISTY圣器收藏室</p><p class="ql-block">This beautifully designed apartment dates from the 15th. century. On the capital of the centre pillar are the arms of King James 1 and of Bishop Cameron, 1426-1446, the builder, whose shield is also seen above the fire-place.</p> <p class="ql-block">The oak door is the only original one left in the church. The leaden bullets em--bedded in the timber speak of stormy times. </p> <p class="ql-block">Wow，近千年长寿的木门！木头门，不是大理石，强调一下🥹。</p> <p class="ql-block">Glasgow Necropolis，a Victorian cemetery in Glasgow, Scotland, established in 1832. </p> <p class="ql-block">It is the final resting place of over 50,000 people, including notable figures such as John Knox, William Miller, James Cleland Richardson and Sir William Arrol . The cemetery is situated on a hill overlooking the city and is a popular tourist attraction due to its impressive architecture and historical significance. </p> <p class="ql-block">登高望远，白云点缀的晴蓝无边♾️；</p> <p class="ql-block">可惜没看到Sir William Wallace Memorial，认真找了，其余皆掠过，真心不了解。</p> <p class="ql-block">离开教堂区域走回城中心了，顺路撞到Glasgow 最古老的民宅，建于1471年，外观普普通通的泥砖墙结构，探了一眼否？竟完全失忆。</p> <p class="ql-block">回程又走上了High Street，此刻再看已经是老相识的亲切了；</p> <p class="ql-block">咦，这边瞧去远远横街有新的壁画，必须岔出去看，BOW DOWN, HONOUR THE ROOTS (#29 Glasgow Mural Trail) ，Created as part of COP26, and in collaboration with local community organisations and Indigenous people in Glasgow, this mural activity was led by Fearless Collective; a South Asia-based public art and storytelling project, founded by Indian artist Shilo Shiv Suleman. 这里的壁画与背景建筑完美契合，不由赞叹不绝！</p> <p class="ql-block">伫立商街的钟楼漂亮挺拔；</p> <p class="ql-block">谷歌地图显示前方又有一壁画，紧跑慢跑去看：</p> <p class="ql-block">Study Of A Woman In Black（#9 <span style="font-size:18px;">Mural Trail）</span></p> <p class="ql-block">Billy Connolly (#9 Mural Trail），In commemoration of Billy Connolly’s 75th birthday， this particular installation is based on John Byrne’s “Billy Connolly”.</p> <p class="ql-block">城市不大，一天可以耒回画格子，St Enoch Center 里面吃了一碗日本面，Wagamama在Boston也有，连锁店出品，规矩太多，no comment😜。</p> <p class="ql-block">吃完面继续画格子，CR Mackintosh (#24 Glasgow Mural Trail)，时不时有新的壁画跳入视线，等待着仲瑶强强飞机降落Glasgow的消息。</p> <p class="ql-block">经过建于1700’s的被移至此地的 McLennan Arch，如今成为绿地公园的西大门，</p> <p class="ql-block">走入2014年举办大英全运会的绿地，</p> <p class="ql-block">跨过流经公园的Clyde River，于河岸尽头荒芜之地，是巨大的古老的小麦蒸溜罐，又得一幅壁画，I RISE WE RISE: Blended Scotch whisky Chivas, has partnered with three artists local to Glasgow to create striking murals on the 9.4m tall, rounded tanks at its Strathclyde Distillery, one of oldest grain distilleries in Scotland. 哈哈，让我们一起喝高！</p> <p class="ql-block">从18世纪开始的传奇，Chivas and Strathclyde share a long and storied history; “As a location, it’s close to the hearts of everyone at Chivas and we’re honoured to be able to highlight its importance to us through the creation of these murals. We’re passionate about paying forward the kindness shown to us by the community here, so it felt right that we work with artists who either live nearby or have a clear connection to Glasgow and the Strathclyde region.”</p> <p class="ql-block">走到这里看到了一堵留白的高墙，这里会出现什么呢？ 我还有机会再来吗？</p> <p class="ql-block">下午1:14pm终于在长江黄河的呼叫声中传来了仲瑶赖强成功着陆的消息，小担心😕变成大欢喜，我们也因为手机充电问题的困扰，决定早早前往Milngavie，高地徙步的启始点，20分钟的地铁。</p> <p class="ql-block">Welcome to the start of the WEST HIGHLAND WAY</p> <p class="ql-block">拖着行李箱，东张西望地走了将近半个小时，到达了Premier Inn，我们八夜七天的首夜。</p> <p class="ql-block">Easyways Walking Scotland 早已将self-guided的文书寄到了酒店，一纸公文解答所有的问题；</p> <p class="ql-block">搞清楚明天早上行李托运的细节，Baggage Freedom将负责运送我们的箱包，明天早上7:45am之前放在旅店门口。记得冬青与我来耒回回几次到前台问这问那，前台女士总是胸有成竹笑嘻嘻用浓浓的苏格兰口音应对着，每天她要安置多少刚刚到达的问题多多的徒步客？</p> <p class="ql-block">担心明天午饭的着落，冬青与我又去附近的超市逛了一圈，街旁樱花盛开着……</p> <p class="ql-block">6pm稍过，我们终于坐下吃上了苏格兰牛肉，看着菜单担心吃不下12oz的肉，二人分享吧，实际上比美国少？ 反正没吃很饱😂。</p> <p class="ql-block">正吃着看到了黄河的身影，队伍集结待发……</p>