Seeing Sydney 悉尼印象

非文

5/21/2023

小娄游世界之二十三篇。原文地址：lucidlunacy.org 网页链接

Sydney Opera House, viewed from the Harbor Bridge. 从海港大桥上看悉尼歌剧院，。

My last stop in Australia was Sydney, where I had a week with no particular plans. Here, thanks to the combination of staying for a longer time and lacking a laundry list of attractions to check off, I was able to go back to a slower pace of travel – four to six hour days instead of ten to twelve hour days, taking the time to duck into random side streets and storefronts that catch my eye, etc…. I found that I enjoyed this a lot more than zipping down a list of attractions, constantly keeping track of time in your head and worrying that you won’t have time to see what you want to see. It avoids sightseeing fatigue, that feeling that you get when yes, the thing you’re looking at is pretty impressive, but you’ve seen three other things like it today and what you’d really like to see right now is a hamburger and bed. It also means you find a lot of interesting things whose experience is only enhanced by the fact that you have no idea what to expect going in – there are no expectations to disappoint.

我在澳大利亚的最后一站是悉尼，在那里我度过了一周，没有任何具体的计划。由于停留的时间比较长，加之没有特别的计划，使我能重新回到慢节奏的旅行——每天四到六个小时，而不是十到十二个小时，花时间晃进街边的小巷或者吸引眼球的小店，等等......我发现我更喜欢这样的旅行，而不是急急忙忙地按着景点清单走过场，不停在脑海中记算时间，担心看不完想看的东西。不再有观光疲劳－－那种当你看到的东西时，你觉得应该令人印象深刻，可是今天你已经看了三个这样的东西，而你现在真正想要的是汉堡包和床的疲倦感。这也意味着你会发现很多有趣的东西，因为你不知道会发生什么，于是这种经历和感受就更强烈——没有期望就不会有失望。

Sydney skyline from the Harbor Bridge. You can actually climb the side of the bridge if you want, although it’s expensive, tiring, and you’re not allowed to take cameras for safety reasons. Alternatively, you can climb one of the bridge pylons, which is 1/20 the cost, nearly as high, and allows cameras. 😃。 来自海港大桥的悉尼天际线。如果你愿意，你可以在桥顶上行走，不过很贵，也很累，而且出于安全原因，不能带相机。或者，你也可以爬上其中一个桥塔，成本是1/20，几乎一样高，并允许相机。😃。

One attraction which did not disappoint despite the high expectations I had of it was the Sydney Opera House; it really is as arrestingly eye-catching as it looks in pictures (although it’s smaller than I thought – all those pictures that make it look like it’s a dominant part of the Sydney skyline are very carefully staged, I think). I originally intended just to look at it from the outside, but ended up enamored enough to sign up for a tour (there was only one spot left on the tour, too!). I was glad I did – the inside was just as impressive as the outside, and learning about the design principles as well as the checkered history of its construction was really interesting.

我对悉尼歌剧院抱有很高的期望，而且它并没有让我失望；它确实像照片中看起来一样引人注目（尽管它比我想象的要小——我认为，所有那些让它看起来像悉尼天际线主导部分的照片都是精心设计的）。我原本只是想从外面看看，但最终被诱惑，报名参加了一个导游带领的小团（最后一个位置！）。我很高兴我参团了——剧院内部和外表一样令人印象深刻，有机会了解设计原则以及其建筑历史真的很有趣。

Gorgeous interior of the Sydney Opera House’s concert hall. The tour guide gave a long explanation of how the acoustics in the hall work, which I didn’t really follow, but one thing which stuck in my head is that the wood panels are laser etched with a sound wave pattern to facilitate transmission. Very cool! 悉尼歌剧院音乐厅的华丽内饰。导游长篇大论地解释了大厅的声学是如何运作的，我并没有真正理解这一点，但让我印象深刻的事是，木板用激光蚀刻了声波图案，以方便传输。非常酷！

Sydney Opera House, silhouetted against the sunset. 悉尼歌剧院，在夕阳下剪影。

Attending the tour gave us access to heavily discounted tickets for a ballet performance being held in the opera house, so given how much I enjoyed the tour I decided on a whim to go see the ballet. Unfortunately, I did not do much research into what the ballet actually was, figuring that I knew so little about ballet that it’d probably all be Greek to me anyways. Alas, it turned out that this was one of the first “modern” ballets, “modern” in this case meaning that it had no plot. Instead, it was a lot of abstract movements and colors intended to evoke the spirit of a place or time, none of which I’d been to, while paying homage to various famous ballets, none of which I’d seen. I’m sure a ballet connoisseur would appreciate the technical brilliance and envelope-pushing subtlety (and indeed, it’s apparently considered one of the classics), but for a first-time ballet-goer like myself I had no idea what was going on.

参团游让我们可以优惠购买在歌剧院举行的芭蕾舞表演的门票，考虑到我非常喜欢这次参观，我一时兴起决定去看场芭蕾舞。不幸的是，我对芭蕾舞没有太多的研究，知之甚少，反正对我来说就是在听外语，啥也不明白。唉，原来这是第一批“现代”芭蕾舞剧之一，换言之，“现代”意味着它没有情节。它所有的是，许多抽象的动作和颜色旨在唤起一个地方或时间的精神（我没感觉到），同时向各种著名的芭蕾舞剧致敬（我也没看出来）。我相信芭蕾舞鉴赏家会欣赏它的技术水平和让人回味的微妙之处（事实上，它显然被认为是经典之一），但对于像我这样的第一次观看芭蕾舞的人来说，我真的不知所云。

Man using the seaside cliffs as a driving range. One mishit and your club is broken… 一位男士把海边的悬崖作为高球练习场。若有一个误击，球杆就不保了......

Dew drops falling from a spiderweb. 露珠从蜘蛛网上落下。

Sydney felt very much like a “normal” city to me, which was a bit surprising – it’s older than Melbourne, but it doesn’t have the same historic feel and architecture. Whereas Melbourne felt like a modern city built on a historic one, with vestiges of classical architecture organically present where development hadn’t yet reached, the historical buildings in Sydney felt very much preserved, intentionally left alone while the modern city grew around them.

对我来说，悉尼感觉就像一个“正常”的城市，这有点令人惊讶——它比墨尔本更古老，但它没有同种古老的感觉和建筑。墨尔本感觉就像一个建立在历史基础上的现代城市，古典建筑的遗迹有幸出现在尚未发展的地方，而悉尼的历史建筑感觉保存非常好，在现代城市周围发展时，特意保留下来。

A nice side effect of this urbanity was the public transit system, which was excellent. Not only did Sydney have an extensive network of subways and trams connecting the city, it also had regular train services to many of the attractions in the surrounding countryside and to other cities in Australia. The trains and subways were remarkably nice, too – not the standard plastic seats on either side of the train car, but double decker cars with rows of padded seats which can be flipped around for when the train changes direction or large groups board.

城市化的一个很好的方面就是出色的公共交通系统。悉尼不仅拥有四通八达的地铁和有轨电车网络，还定期提供前往周围乡村许多景点和澳大利亚其他城市的火车服务。火车和地铁也非常好——不是那种廉价塑料座椅，而是带有一排排软垫座椅的双层车厢，当火车改变方向或一伙人一起乘车时时，座椅可以翻转改变方向。

Vividly-colored rocks on the seaside cliffs. 海边悬崖上色彩鲜艳的岩石。

One thing which I hadn’t paid attention to in Melbourne but was very noticeable in Sydney was the pub culture – it felt like every day at 5 PM, all the pubs in the city suddenly filled with people (mostly men) drinking and chatting the day’s stress away. Most pubs had limited seating, so the majority of people stood, beer in hand – there were often so many that it was difficult to walk through the bar! Gambling also seemed to be quite popular – I couldn’t walk a minute in the city center without seeing an advertisement for a gambling lounge, something which I hadn’t noticed in other cities.

一个在墨尔本我没有注意到但在悉尼却非常引人注目的现象是酒吧文化——感觉每天下午5点，城市里所有的酒吧突然都挤满了人（主要是男人）在喝酒和聊天，籍此消除一天的压力。大多数酒吧的座位有限，所以很多人就站着，手里拿着啤酒——通常很拥挤，以至于人们很难穿过酒吧！赌博似乎也很受常见——在市中心走不到一分钟就会看到赌博室的广告牌，这是我在其他城市没有看到的。

Waves crashing against the rocky shoreline. 海浪冲击着岩石海岸线。

One of the most popular attractions in Sydney is the coastal trail, which winds through rocky cliffs, sandy beaches, and vertiginous panoramas alike. This is a part which goes through a historic cemetery. Sobering, but a beautiful final resting place. 悉尼最受欢迎的景点之一是沿海小径，蜿蜒穿过岩石悬崖、沙滩和令人眩晕的全景。这是穿过一个历史悠久的墓地。伤感而美丽的最后安息之所

The other highlight of Sydney, for me, was the Sydney fish market, which had delicious fresh caught seafood prepared in a variety of different ways for a relatively inexpensive price (I say relatively, though, because Sydney in general was quite expensive, even more so than Melbourne). Despite the lobster being far and away the most expensive item, I actually didn’t like it that much – the cooking style (called “mornay”) filled the shell with a base of mashed potatoes and then put cheese on top of the lobster, but I wasn’t a huge fan of the mashed potato. What I really liked, though, were the scallops. Their cooking style was called “aburi”, in which the shell is filled with a base of sushi rice, on top of which the scallop and aioli sauce is added, with a layer of melted cheese on top of that and a sprinkling of fish roe. Everything goes together and works so well, and the rice absorbs so much flavor from all the other ingredients; it’s excellent (perhaps this is just another variation on the rice topped with savory ingredients that I’ve enjoyed so much in every country I’ve visited).

悉尼的另一个亮点是悉尼鱼市，那里有各种不同的美味的新鲜海鲜，价格相对便宜（不过，我说相对来说，悉尼总体上物价相当昂贵，甚至比墨尔本更贵）。尽管龙虾是最昂贵的食物，但我实际上不太喜欢它的烹饪方式（称为“mornay”）用土豆泥填满外壳，然后把奶酪放在龙虾上面，我不太喜欢土豆泥。不过，我真喜欢扇贝。他们的烹饪方式被称为“aburi”，外壳上装满了寿司米饭，上面加了扇贝和艾奥利酱，上面涂上一层融化的奶酪，并撒上鱼子，融合在一起，效果很好，米饭吸收了如此多的来自其他食材美味；很棒（也许这只是另一种形式的盖浇饭，上面有咸味的各种成分，在我访问过的每个国家，我都非常享受这个）。

Food from the Sydney fish market. The aburi scallops are on the left. The oysters were pretty good too; the only thing I didn’t like much was the lobster. I’ll stick to my mom’s preparation method in the future, haha. 来自悉尼鱼市的食物。Aburi扇贝在左边。牡蛎也很好；我唯一不喜欢的就是龙虾。我还是喜欢我妈妈的烹制方式，哈哈。

Fresh-caught lobster and crab for sale at the fish market. 新鲜捕获的龙虾和螃蟹在鱼市出售。

Live crabs at the fish market. 鱼市的活螃蟹。

I don’t really have much else to say about Sydney, actually. I enjoyed my time there, but it felt very much normal to me – there weren’t as many super notable things that made me want to write about them. A lot of Australia felt that way, actually – nice, but not spectacular. Living in Australia felt like being on a metaphorical plateau, instead of climbing mountain peaks – the overall quality of life is elevated, but the highlights aren’t quite as high. For the most part, I could find the all things I found in Australia elsewhere, and oftentimes in higher quality. But the combination of those things, and a culture which allows one to enjoy them regularly, is something that’s probably only found here.

实际上，关于悉尼，我也没有什么可说的了。我很享受在那里的时光，但我觉得也很平常——没有那么多超级值得注意的事情让我想写它们。实际上，澳大利亚很多人都有这种感觉——很好，但并不特别。在澳大利亚生活感觉就像在一个平坦的高原上，而不是攀登山峰——整体生活质量提高了，但亮点没有那么显眼。基本上，我在澳大利亚看到的所有东西都可以在其他地方找到，而且质量往往更高。但扡这些东西的组合在一起，让人们能时不时地享受它们，可能只能在这里找到。

The Three Sisters, part of the nearby Blue Mountains (accessible by public transit!). While pretty, I couldn’t help but feel the landscape was kind of tame compared to the meticulous perfection of Japanese gardens or the raw power of Taroko Gorge. 三姐妹，附近蓝山公园的一部分（乘坐公共交通到达！）。虽然很漂亮，但我还是觉得，与日本花园精致的完美或太鲁阁峡谷的原生态相比，风景有点一般

Picture time! There’s more of them this time since this post was short.

图片时间！这次有更多的照片，因为这个帖子有点短。

Birds at the train station in the Blue Mountains. The first time I saw one of these, it was sitting on a shop sign and I thought it was a pet… then I saw a whole flock of them at the train station. The horn-looking thing on their heads expands into a full crest when they’re agitated – it’s quite eye-catching! 蓝山火车站的鸟儿。我第一次看到时，它坐在商店的牌子上，我以为是一只宠物......然后我在火车站看到了一大群，当他们激动时，他们头上看起来像角的东西会膨胀成一个完整的冠冕——非常引人注目

Autumn was in full swing in Sydney, with lots of pretty foliage. 悉尼的秋意正浓，有很多漂亮的树叶。

Historic looking ship in the Sydney Harbor; apparently it still sails! 悉尼港历史悠久的船；显然它仍能航行！

Crocodile pizza. You know how they say every exotic meat just tastes like chicken? Crocodile… actually didn’t taste that much like chicken. It was closer to white fish, like cod, in texture and taste. 鳄鱼披萨。你知道他们说每种异国情调的肉尝起来都像鸡肉吗？鳄鱼......实际上尝起来不太像鸡肉。它在质地和味道上更接近白肉鱼，就像鳕鱼一样。

The Blue Mountains were hosting an ultramarathon when I visited, with 50K and 100K variants running the whole weekend. 当我参观时，蓝山正在举办一场超级马拉松，整个周末都有各种50K和10万的比赛

Another meat pie. Apparently Australians have this for breakfast? It feels far too heavy for breakfast to me. 另一种肉馅饼。显然这是澳大利亚人的早餐？对我来说，做为早餐感觉太油腻了。

Harbor Bridge at sunset. 日落时分的海港大桥。

Australian Aborigines performing on the street. 澳大利亚原住民在街上表演。

Pretty flowers!

The oldest pub in Sydney. Already crowded at 5 PM on a Thursday. 悉尼最古老的酒吧。周四下午5点已经很拥挤了。

I ran halfway around the Sydney Harbor trying to get the Opera House shot from above before the sun set. But at least there was this rainbow to point out my destination! 我绕着悉尼港跑了半圈儿，试图在太阳落山前从上面拍摄歌剧院。幸有彩虹指引方向

I was inspired by the quaint atmosphere of the Blue Mountains to try taking some more rustic shots. Not entirely sure how to do that, but I liked this one! 我受到蓝山古色古香的启发，尝试拍摄一些更质朴的照片。确定该怎么处理，不过这张我挺喜欢

The Circular Quay seems to be the hub of downtown Sydney; here’s the railway station against a backdrop of the downtown skyscrapers. 环形码头似乎是悉尼市中心的枢纽；这里是市中心摩天大楼背景下的火车站。

Ocean swimming competition I passed by. It seemed quite official, with a judges and everything, but everyone was remarkably friendly and relaxed. Australian personality, I suppose. 我路过海洋游泳比赛。这似乎很正式，有评委等等，但每个人都非常友好和放松。我想这是澳大利亚人特性

Morning dew drops on a flower. 早晨的露珠落在花瓣上

Rather arresting WWII memorial. WWII memorials were everywhere in Australia, and especially Sydney. 二战纪念碑。二战纪念物在澳大利亚随处可见，尤其是悉尼。

Another picture of the Opera House, with the cityscape in the background. 另一张歌剧院的照片，背景是城市景观。

非文的话：

好像我对悉尼的印象比小娄同学好一些，也许因为悉尼是我去澳大利亚的第一站，新奇感还在。而墨尔本是我的最后一站。所以我们对两个城市的感觉差异不小。我对墨尔本的印象基本就定格在小企鹅上，别的都没有太多感觉。悉尼的鱼市是我建议小娄去的，看来他还挺喜欢

很高兴小娄在外面还惦记着妈妈的手艺🦞。这么多年下来也算是喂熟了😊.

下一篇估计该是新加坡了吧？老娄小娄都去过了，就我还没去过。想想十八个小时关在机舱里，就总是望而却步。准备跟着小娄把这站打卡了。