法兰西漫游～～巴黎-蒲罗旺斯-尼斯之旅 【尼斯/法国蓝色海岸French Riviera】

Art Historian

Le souvenir, c’est La presence invisible. 记忆是无形的存在。

　 ～～～～～～Victor Hugo 雨果

法国蓝色海岸 ~ The French Riviera (Côte d'Azur) is everything it claims to be and more. The best places to visit on the French Riviera all offer something different, from celeb-laden streets to quaint nostalgia. Heck, why not try to cover all of them in one magnificent road trip?I wish, but that is impractical. Any way I provide a list for you: 1) Grasse, 2 ) Eze, 3) Antibes, 4) Villefranche-sur-Mer, 5) Juan-les-Pins, 6) Saint-Tropez, 7) Cannes, 8) Menton, 9) Nice. Personally, I think Nice is more realistic.

We toke train from Avignon ~Aix-en-Provence TGV~Marseille Saint-Charles ~Toulon~Saint-Raphael Valescure~ Cannes~Antibes ~ finally arrive Nice. I can see Mediterranean Sea intermittently on the train.

蓝色海岸（法語：Côte d'Azur；奧克語：Còsta d’Azur，義大利語：Costa Azzurra，又稱作法國里维埃拉（英語：French Riviera），地处地中海沿岸，属于法国东南沿海普罗旺斯-阿尔卑斯-蓝色海岸大区一部分，为自瓦尔省土伦与意大利接壤的阿尔卑斯省芒通之间相连的大片滨海地区。蓝色海岸被认为是最奢华和最富有的地区之一，世界上众多富人、名人多汇集于此。位于阿尔卑斯省的滨海小城戛纳为戛纳电影节主办地，每年一度的金棕榈奖就在此地颁发。尼斯是此地區的最大城市，同時也是著名的度假聖地。三面被法國環繞的親王國摩納哥也位於此處。二戰時因德國和義大利回應盟軍火炬行動，法國南部包括蔚藍海岸及摩納哥被義大利軍事控制及佔領。

蓝色海岸地处法属地中海沿岸的一部分，该区域从地理位置上来看，西部与位于同属阿尔卑斯滨海大省的滨海泰乌勒交界，东部与芒通这个法国与意大利接壤的边境小镇紧紧相联。蓝色海岸蜿蜒盘旋的海岸线均隶属于法国滨海阿尔卑斯省。北部为阿尔卑斯山所环绕，南面临海，海岸线长达3,000米。東面接壤的是義大利的利古里亞海岸，也稱作義大利里維耶拉。

蓝色海岸得名于一部发表于1888年的同名小说，作者为Stephen Liegeard。

The Promenade des Anglais is a promenade along the Mediterranean coast of Nice, France. It extends from the airport on the west to the Quai des États-Unis on the east, for a distance of approximately 7 km. Administratively speaking, it forms part of Route nationale 98, which runs between Toulon and Menton. 

据说这条沿蓝色海岸的步行街是几十年前英国政府出资修建的。当时法国正处于经济消退状态，才接受了英国政府的支持。

漫步人生路，体验“人生难得糊涂与从容”！

远远望去，海面波光粼粼，远处的楼台巍峨，点缀在海水与天空之间。

Hotel La Villa Nice Vector Hugo

我们只在这里住两天，从这里去Promenade des Anglias 大道只有两个街区，步行五分钟。

Hotel Le Negresco

This sophisticated hotel is across the Promenade des Anglais from Neptune Beach on the Mediterranean Sea. We are here for lunch.

Welcome to Place Masséna! 尼斯市中心最繁华热闹的广场之一！街头有艺人表演。

Located right in the heart of the city, Place Masséna is the main square here in Nice. The plaza was named after local Niçoise general, André Masséna, who served in the Napoleanic Wars. It sits at a crossroads of several main boulevards. Particularly with the seafront to the south and the main avenue of Jean Médecin jutting off to the north.

The Place Masséna is a historic square in Nice, Alpes-Maritimes, France. It was named for André Masséna. Its layout was designed by Joseph Vernier in 1843-1844. Before the Paillon River was covered over, the Pont-Neuf was the only practicable way between the old town and the modern one. The square was thus divided into two parts in 1824. With the demolition of the Masséna Casino in 1979, the Place Masséna became more spacious and less dense and is now bordered by red ochre buildings of Italian architecture. The recent rebuilding of the tramline gave the square back to the pedestrians, restoring its status as a real Mediterranean square. It is lined with palm trees and stone pines, instead of being the rectangular roundabout of sorts it had become over the years. Since its construction, the Place Masséna has always been the spot for great public events. It is used for concerts, and particularly during the summer festivals, the Corso carnavalesque in February, the military procession of 14 July or other traditional celebrations and banquets.

Fountan de Soleil

Iconic fountain with a statue of Apollo.

The Castle of Nice was a military citadel. Built at the top of a hill, it stood overlooking the bay of Nice from the 11th century to the 18th century. It was besieged several times, especially in 1543 and in 1691, before it was taken by French troops in 1705 and finally destroyed in 1706 by command of Louis XIV.

The Musée Matisse in Nice is a municipal museum devoted to the work of French painter Henri Matisse. It gathers one of the world's largest collections of his works, tracing his artistic beginnings and his evolution through his last works. The museum, which opened in 1963, is located in the Villa des Arènes, a seventeenth-century villa in the neighborhood of Cimiez.

The Marc Chagall National Museum (Chagall Biblical Message) is a French national museum dedicated to the work of painter Marc Chagall - essentially his works inspired by religion - located in Nice in the Alpes-Maritimes.

The museum was created during the lifetime of the artist, with the support of the Minister of Culture André Malraux, and inaugurated in 1973.[1] It is also known as the "National Museum Marc Chagall Biblical Message" ("Musée national message biblique Marc Chagall") as it houses the series of seventeen paintings illustrating the biblical message, painted by Chagall and offered to the French State in 1966. This series illustrates the books of Genesis, Exodus and the Song of Songs.

Chagall himself provided detailed instructions about the creation of the garden by Henri Fish, and decided the place of each of his works in the museum. The chronological order of the works was not followed.[2] Chagall created the mosaic which overlooks the pond and the blue stained glasses that decorate the concert hall; he also wanted an annual exhibition to be held on a topic related to the spiritual and religious history of the world.

LA PLACE ROSSETTI

Lively old town area with Niçoise specialty shops, outdoor restaurants & Cours Saleya market.

The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Nice is a Roman Catholic basilica situated on the Avenue Jean Médecin in the centre of Nice, in France. It is built in the Neo-Gothic architectural tradition. The basilica, built between 1864 and 1868, was designed by Louis Lenormand and is the largest church in Nice, but is not the cathedral of the city. Inspired by Angers Cathedral, it is built in the Gothic style. Its construction was motivated by a desire to add French architecture to the city following the acquisition of the County of Nice by France from the Kingdom of Sardinia; at the time Gothic buildings were considered to be characteristically French. Its most prominent features are two square towers 65 m high, which dominate the east front together with a large rose window featuring scenes of the Assumption of Mary. On 29 October 2020, three people were killed at the church in an act of Islamic terrorism. The suspect was identified as a 21 year old Tunisian illegal immigrant, who had reportedly shouted "Allahu Akbar" while holding a Quran.

The Palais Lascaris is a seventeenth-century aristocratic building in Nice, France. Currently, it is a musical instrument museum. Located in the old town of Nice, it houses a collection of over 500 instruments, which makes it France’s second most important collection after the Musée de la Musique de la Philharmonie in Paris.

Antibes 安提壁

This is a charming town on the French Riviera on the shores on Mediterranean sea. There is so much to see……

我们有两个意大利朋友开车来尼斯与我们相聚，陪同我们在周围游玩。沿途是法国乡村风景名胜：第一站是一个叫圣保罗德旺斯（Saint-Paul-de-Vence）的小镇。属于是法国滨海阿尔卑斯省，位于该省南部。第二站是一个只有几十户人家的小村落。（Tourrettes is a perched village in the Var department of Provence, set in the hills inland from the Cote d'Azur to the north of Frejus and west of Grasse.）村外有古罗马水蕖遗址。第三站也是极小的小镇叫 Gourdon。第四站是个几十万人口的小城。第五站是安提比。计划晚上在此落脚。

我们去的几个小城镇的简图，下面介绍的小镇在这张图上面都可找到。

【Saint-Paul-De-Vence 】is a commune in the Alpes-Maritimes department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region of Southeastern France. One of the oldest medieval towns on the French Riviera, it is well known for its modern and contemporary art museums and galleries such as the Fondation Maeght,[3] and for the 17-century Saint Charles-Saint Claude chapel, which in 2012–2013 was decorated with murals by French artist Paul Conte.

Until 2011, the commune was officially called Saint-Paul.

从这座小城的最高处可见远方的阿尔卑斯山脉的雪峰。

图片中间可见摩那哥王国的标志性建筑。

【Tourrettes-sur-Loup 】 (Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, France)

Tourrettes is a perched village in the Var department of Provence, set in the hills inland from the Cote d'Azur to the north of Frejus and west of Grasse.

Note: Tourettes is not to be confused with Tourrettes-sur-Loup, a perched village in the Alpes-Maritimes department of Provence!

On the way you will pass the 11th century Church of Saint André (restored in the 16th century) to reach the clocktower that stands at the top of the village - the clocktower was built in the 14th century, as was the small chapel of Penitents.

Along the way you pass lots of quaint houses, and small open squares. There is a village lavoir to the north of Tourrettes.

The castle on the hill to the west is the Chateau de Puy, built in 1830 by Alexandre Fabre - he had worked in Russia for 20 years and built the castle to be a copy of the École des Cadets in the town of Saint Petersburg in Russia.

　　【Gourdon 】has kept a strong medieval identity : fortified doors, half-timbered houses, narrow streets winding up to the esplanade of the old castle… There, at the top of the hill, the hilly landscapes announcing the Périgord. Of the castle and the 17th century ramparts, only the circular shape of the promenades remains. The rue du Majou, the Maison du Sénéchal which houses craft exhibitions during the summer, the 17th century Town Hall, the Saint-Pierre Church, the Maison Cavaignac… are all opportunities for discovery.【古尔东】法国西南部城市，奥克西塔尼大区洛特省的一个市镇，古尔东位于洛特省西北部的一处山峦之间，其附近区域被称为“布里亚讷地区”，历史上是一个重要的封建家族领地，现留有大量中世纪建筑。

【Grasse 】is the only subprefecture of the Alpes-Maritimes department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte-d'Azur region on the French Riviera.

Considered the world's capital of perfume, Grasse obtained two flowers in the Concours des villes et villages fleuris and was made Ville d'Art et d'Histoire (City of Art and History).Grasse has had a prospering perfume industry since the end of the 18th century. Grasse is the centre of the French perfume industry and is known as the world's perfume capital.Grasse has had a prospering perfume industry since the end of the 18th century. Grasse is the centre of the French perfume industry and is known as the world's perfume capital

格拉斯法国东南部城市，普罗旺斯-阿尔卑斯-蓝色海岸大区滨海阿尔卑斯省的一个市镇，格拉斯位于滨海阿尔卑斯省西部内陆，阿尔卑斯山南段的一处山谷之中，是一个区域性的中心城市，多条公路在此交。格拉斯因出产香水而闻名，其产品畅销世界各地。被称为世界香水之都，我们参观了一个当地的香水博物馆(Molinard).

Parfumerie Molinard - Bastide historique & Musée

我们去参观家名为 Molinard 的香水博物馆，学点东西。比如香水中香精浓度与其香精含量成正比, 且浓度越高，香味的持续时间越长。见下图说明。这款香水世界持名,以清淡耐久著称，下次再见到这款品牌的香水，就知道产地与质量啦！

毕加索在世界许多国家都有以他命名的博物馆

The Musée Picasso in Antibes

formerly the Château Grimaldi at Antibes, is built upon the foundations of the ancient Greek town of Antipolis. Antibes is a resort town in the Alpes-Maritimes department in southeastern France, on the Mediterranean Sea. The castle is the subject of a classification as historical monuments since April 29, 1928.

博物馆二楼后面的平台正对着大海。又见安提比的蓝色海岸。（Antibes at Côte d’Azur)

THE PICASSO NATIONAL MUSEUM in Vallauris

Museum focused on Pablo Picasso, with a ceramics collection, plus large-scale murals in a chapel.

这个毕加索在1952年期间以”战争与和平”为主题所绘制的壁画，占据了整座小教堂全部的园型穹顶与墙壁。

”War and Peace” Spanning over 100m2, this monumental painting was crafted on panels of hardboard, a material flexible enough to be laid over the chapel’s vaults.

It was painted in his studio the Fournas, and Picasso worked on flat surfaces rather than a curved shape We are in 1950, in the throes of the Korean War. As a member of the French communist party, Picasso campaigned for the Peace Movement, designing the dove that would go on to be used around the world. He decided to create a monumental artwork that would express his political views. In 1951, over the course of a dinner in the nave of the castle’s chapel held by the Vallauris potters in honour of his 70th birthday, Picasso expressed his desire to decorate the vaults. He had a vision of turning the old deserted sanctuary into a sort of Temple of Peace.

The Renoir Museum in Cagnes-sur-Mer, Côte d’Azur

In 1907 the Impressionist painter, Pierre Auguste Renoir, bought Les Collettes, a pretty pale stone farmhouse set in a garden of olive trees looking out over the sparkling blue of the Mediterranean Sea. Like others, he had fallen in love with the clear colors and the quality of light of the south of France.

Renoir was one of the leading Impressionists of the time, along with Alfred Sisley, Claude Monet and Edouard Manet, pioneering the revolutionary style that rejected the stiff, formal French academic painting for outdoor scenes, capturing the changing, luminous light. Renoir discovered the region in 1882 when he visited Paul Cézanne in Aix-en-Provence on a journey to Italy. He was already famous, known particularly for Luncheon of the Boating Party, produced in 1881 and one of the most important works of the past 150 years.

Renoir 后半生的住宅建在地式相对高些的丰山坡上，这是从后面二楼平台上可见的地中海风光。

这是当初Renoir 做画的地方,我们如今可以看到几乎完全相同的风景。联想起“物是人非”。他晚年深受类风湿关节炎病痛的困扰，画笔必须被缠绑在手上才能做画。

Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is a commune in the Alpes-Maritimes department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region in Southeastern France. In 2017, it had a population of 1,573. Cap Ferrat was named in 2012 as the second most expensive residential location in the world after Monaco. Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is located on a peninsula next to Beaulieu-sur-Mer and Villefranche-sur-Mer and extends out to Cap Ferrat. Its tranquility and warm climate make it a favourite holiday destination among the European aristocracy and international rich who visit the French Riviera.

离开法国前一晚在安提壁一家小餐馆的晚餐🥣菜谱。

倦鸟归巢，该回家啦！法国再见了！

All I ever wanted was everything ！那是不可能的！

回来时在纽约入海关，人山人海的，之后还要重新检查行李（New York JFK airport all gates security check together unbelievable)，好像累的没有感觉了。在那里入关转机一定要给自己留足够的时间!

备注：以前去过的许多地方没有记录下来，现在自己都想不起来了！这些年才开始记录，也为下次出门旅行奔波，捉供点动力！听说我们离开法国的第二天全法的航空管制人员大罢工，许多航班都延误或取消了。