乌镇·江南的记忆（Wuzhen · Memories of Jiangnan）

母女情深

原创：倪捷儿 摄影：千喜

Original: Ni Jie Photography: Qianxi

水乡梦长，古镇每每在橹声中醒来。7000年前，这一带属于新石器时期的马家浜文化圈，是先民的家园，文明的摇篮。2500年前，这里是春秋时期吴越两国交界处，发生过战事，演绎着历史。1100多年前，唐朝咸通年间开始建镇，虽几度起落，几经枯荣，但不改江南底色，延续着文脉。几千年的中国，风尘仆仆地走来，在杭嘉湖平原一处小桥流水人家美美地歇了一宿，浓缩成一段段美丽的故事，它的名字叫乌镇——牵动全世界鼠标的互联网小镇。

The dream of the water town is long, and the ancient town wakes up every time with the sound of the oar. 7,000 years ago, this area belonged to the Neolithic period of the Ma jia bang culture circle, which was the homeland of the ancestors and the cradle of civilization. 2,500 years ago, it was the border between the states of Yue and Wu during the Spring and Autumn period, where wars were fought and history unfolded. More than 1,100 years ago, during the Xiantong period of the Tang Dynasty, the town began to be built. Although it experienced ups and downs and ups and downs, it did not change the color of Jiangnan and continued the cultural heritage. For thousands of years, China has come and gone, and in the flatlands of Hangzhou, Jiaxing, and Huzhou, it has rested beautifully for a night. It has condensed into a series of beautiful stories, and its name is Wuzhen - an Internet town that moves the world's mouse.

乌镇位于浙江省桐乡市北端，地处富饶的杭嘉湖平原中心，属太湖流域运河水系。是中国首批历史文化名镇和中国魅力名镇之一，5A级旅游景区，联合国世界文化遗产保护单位。镇区由十字形的水系划分为东栅、西栅、南栅、和北栅四个区域，东栅是保护开发的一期工程，2001年正式对外开放。西栅是保护开发的二期工程，历时四载磨砺，投资近10多亿，2017年正式对外开放。东栅、西栅姐妹篇，完美呈现了中国江南水乡古镇的风貌。

Wuzhen is located at the northern end of Tongxiang City, Zhejiang Province, in the center of the prosperous Hangzhou-Jiaxing-Huzhou plain, and belongs to the Taihu River basin canal water system. It is one of the first batch of historical and cultural towns in China and one of the most charming towns in China. It is a 5A-level tourist attraction and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town is divided into four areas: East Gate, West Gate, South Gate, and North Gate, by a cross-shaped water system. The East Gate is the first phase of protection and development, which was officially opened to the public in 2001. The West Gate is the second phase of protection and development, which has been polished for four years and invested nearly 1 billion yuan. It was officially opened to the public in2017. The East Gate and West Gate are sisters, which perfectly presents the scenery of the ancient water towns in Jiangnan.

乌镇除了拥有小桥流水人家的水乡风情和宏大完整的明清古建筑群之外，还散发出浓郁的历史底蕴和文化气息，百年老屋中的欢声笑语传递着水乡人家的温暖亲情；传承五代的酱园依然酱香浓郁；染坊晒架上的蓝印花布天然朴素；三寸金莲馆神秘奇异；名人故居、深宅大院风华依旧；明清建筑曲雅大气；民间工艺巧夺天工；古树浓荫，清溪环流；天然湿地，白鹭成群；水阁汲水，晨霭行舟。

In addition to the water town charm of small bridges, flowing water, and thatched-roof houses, and the grand and complete ancient buildings of the Ming and Qing dynasties, Wuzhen also exudes a rich history and cultural atmosphere. The laughter and joy in the old houses of a hundred years old convey the warm family affection of the water town people; the soy sauce factory that has been passed down for five generations still has a strong aroma of soy sauce; the blue printed cloth on the drying rack of the dyeing shop is natural and simple; the three-inch lotus foot hall is mysterious and strange; the former residences of famous people and the grand mansions still retain their elegance; the ancient buildings of the Ming and Qing Dynasties are elegant and grand; the folk crafts are exquisite; the ancient trees provide dense shade, and the clear stream flows around; the natural wetland is home to flocks of egrets; the water pavilion draws water, and the boat sails in the morning mist.

乌镇的美，美在它的水。一条河从春秋时期流来，南北穿乌镇。京杭大运河流近乌镇，分出一支从镇的西北角注入，一直往前走是河，略一分神就成了港，稍一驻脚便成了湖，七拐八弯就织成了水网。乌镇依水建街，傍水设市，家家是临河阁楼，户户有汲水晓窗。桥在水上，上桥下桥，是乌镇人的茶余饭后；船在水上，上船下船，是乌镇人的出门与回家。临水的那一边，是比心事还长的长廊，可以坐，可以卧，可以话桑麻，可以说情话。

The beauty of Wuzhen lies in its water. A river has flowed through Wuzhen since the Spring and Autumn period. The Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal flows near Wuzhen and splits into a branch that flows into the northwest corner of the town. As you walk further, it becomes a river, then a harbor, then a lake, and finally a network of waterways. Wuzhen builds its streets along the water and sets up markets by the water. Every household has a riverside pavilion, and every household has a morning window for drawing water. Bridges are on the water, and going up and down the bridge is what Wuzhen people do after tea. Boats are on the water, and going on and off the boat is what Wuzhen people do when they go out and come back home. On the side by the water, there is a long corridor that is longer than one's worries, where one can sit, lie down, talk about mulberry and hemp, and say sweet nothings.

乌镇的美，美在它的水。西栅河宽不过20米，鸡犬之声相闻。墙根躺三两排木椅，支三两根木柱，下八九级石阶，便有摇橹船荡着波儿在候着。独自坐在平顶的摇撸船里，什么都可以想，什么都可以不想，任绿波拍打你的心灵，轻轻的荡，悠悠的喜。乌镇是一个可以发呆的地方，直到你呆若木鸡，凝成一幅壁上画、岸边图、水中景。乌镇就像一块温润的江南玉，任风霜雨打精心地雕，细细地磨，在流水时光里淡淡的滋养着自己。

The beauty of Wuzhen lies in its water. The width of the West Village River is no more than 20 meters, and the sounds of chickens and dogs can be heard. There are three or four rows of wooden chairs at the foot of the wall, supported by three or four wooden pillars, with eight or nine stone steps below. There are rowing boats rocking on the waves waiting for you. Sitting alone in a flat-roofed rowing boat, you can think about anything or not think about anything, let the green waves beat your soul, gently rocking and leisurely happy. Wuzhen is a place where you can daydream, until you become as still as a chicken, and become a painting on the wall, a picture by the shore, and a scene in the water. Wuzhen is like a smooth piece of jade from the south of the Yangtze River, carefully carved and polished by wind, frost, and rain, nourishing itself gently in the flowing time.

乌镇的美，美在它的桥。世上没有两片相同的树叶，乌镇没有二座一样的桥。乌镇的桥始建于南宋，今日已有80多座，堪称水乡古桥博物馆。单孔桥、三孔桥和石拱桥，造型不一各成风景。或庄严持重，结结实实，披一身斑驳的绿苔；或纵身跃然，寥寥几笔，如国画里一勾灵巧的飞白；或朴素平淡，简简单单，像老农民的汗巾，随意搁在河的腰身上。石桥上，一些建有古色古香的亭阁，一些雕刻着精细的图案或对仗工整的桥联。

The beauty of Wuzhen lies in its bridges. There are no two identical leaves in the world, and there are no two identical bridges in Wuzhen. The bridges in Wuzhen were built during the Southern Song Dynasty, and today there are more than 80 of them, which can be called a museum of ancient water bridges. Single-arch bridges, three-arch bridges, and stone arches, each with its own unique shape and scenery. Some are solemn and dignified, covered with a patchwork of green moss; some are graceful and nimble, with a few strokes like a delicate white in Chinese painting; some are simple and plain, like an old farmer's handkerchief, casually placed on the river's waist. On the stone bridges, some have ancient-style pavilions, and some have exquisite carvings or well-matched bridge couplets.

乌镇的美，美在它的桥。它目睹了多少的别离和等待。倚桥頋盼，凭栏张望，离乡或还乡的日子，大多在水天茫茫的季节，在慈母茫茫的眼神里。桥乡乌镇是个有故事的地方，江南女子身着一袭蓝印花布旗袍，撑一柄青伞，最是那一低头的温柔，把个袅袅娜娜留在空空蒙蒙的画里。在乌镇人眼里，桥不单是路的延伸，是一座可演绎千百年悲欢故事的舞台，可以成为一生故乡梦的寄托，还可让多情的人有个展目驰怀的所在。

The beauty of Wuzhen lies in its bridges. It has witnessed countless separations and waits. Standing by the bridge, leaning on the railing, looking out, the days of leaving or returning home are mostly in the season of endless water and sky, in the mother's endless eyes. Wuzhen, a place with stories, is a place where Jiangnan women wear a blue-printed cheongsam and hold an azure umbrella. It is the gentle moment when they bow their heads, leaving a graceful figure in the empty and hazy painting. In the eyes of the people of Wuzhen, the bridge is not only an extension of the road, but also a stage where thousands of years of joys and sorrows can be performed. It can be a place where one's hometown dreams can be nurtured, and it can also be a place for the sentimental to gaze and dream.

乌镇的美，美在它的水阁。乌镇民居多依河而建，街与河道平行，临河的房屋称为“下岸”，下岸的房屋就称为水阁。人们以木柱或石柱立在河上，架上横梁和木板，就成为伸展在河道上的阁楼。东栅和西栅，逶迤数里的水阁绵延成最美的风景线。坐一小船，荡波而去，碧水蜿蜒，小桥映影，橹声欸乃中水阁长卷在眼前徐徐展开，临河窗户里晃动着忙碌或悠闲的身影，窗口吊兰垂下长长的叶子，恍惚间，你仿佛也沉入这个千年的枕水之梦境。

The beauty of Wuzhen lies in its water pavilions. Wuzhen's residential buildings are built along the river, and the streets run parallel to the river. Houses by the river are called "lower shore," and the houses on the lower shore are called water pavilions. People stand on wooden or stone pillars on the river, set up beams and planks, and become a loft extending over the river. The water pavilions in Dongzha and Xizha stretch for several miles, forming the most beautiful scenery. Sitting in a small boat and drifting away, the blue water meanders, the small bridge reflects the shadow, and the sound of the oar creaks as the water pavilion unfurls slowly in front of you. The busy or leisurely figures in the windows of the riverside houses sway, and the hanging ivy of the window hangs down long leaves. In a trance, you seem to sink into this thousand-year-old dream of water.

乌镇的美，美在它的廊棚。乌镇人叫河岸为帮岸，帮岸上常有廊棚，就是一边连着屋顶的檐街。廊棚全部为木结构的柱子，柱下往往还垫着个鼓形的石墩，廊棚一色的鱼鳞黑瓦盖顶，下面往往是一条石板道，随河曲折。廊棚一般坐落在面北的街上，大多临河，也有居中的。廊棚沿河一侧设有靠背的木板长凳，当地人称为美人靠，倚在美人靠上，看天空，看水波，看湖面，看倒影，河里小船时而穿过，欸乃有声，只觉得时光在这一刻停止了。

The beauty of Wuzhen lies in its covered walkways. The people of Wuzhen call the banks of the river "bang jian," and along the banks, there are often covered walkways, which are one-sided eaves connected to the roofs. The covered walkways are all made of wooden columns, and under the columns, there is often a drum-shaped stone pedestal. The covered walkways are covered with fish-scale black tiles, and under them, there is often a stone path winding along the river. The covered walkways are generally located on streets facing north, most of them are along the river, and there are also some in the middle. Along the river side of the covered walkways, there are wooden bench seats with backs, which the locals call "beauty's seat." Sitting on the beauty's seat, looking at the sky, the water waves, the lake, and the reflection, small boats sometimes pass through the river, making a sound, and one feels that time has stopped at this moment.

乌镇的美，美在它的街。东栅大街长约0.9公里，西栅1.8公里，街面宽3至5米不等，由已被岁月打磨得锃亮的青石板铺成。老街大多沿河，街与河之间也是房子，河中生柱，水上架阁。窗户很讲究，大窗套小窗，窗叶微启，爬墙虎苍苍地攀缘着窗格。街两边是马头墙隔出的一间间店铺和住房，屋挨屋，墙跟墙，门通门。门楼上有精美的砖雕、石雕、木雕，处处流露出这个古镇昔日的繁华，看着斑驳痕迹的百年老店，让人恍惚间有穿越时空的感觉。

The beauty of Wuzhen lies in its streets. The East Gate Street is about 0.9 kilometers long, and the West Gate Street is 1.8 kilometers long. The width of the street varies from 3 to 5 meters, and it is paved with green stone slabs that have been polished by time. Most of the old streets are along the river, and there are houses between the street and the river. There are pillars in the river and pavilions on the water. The windows are very elaborate, with large window frames and small windows, and the window louvers are slightly open, with creeping ivy climbing up the window grids. The streets on both sides are separated by horse-head walls, with one after another of shops and houses, with houses next to houses, walls next to walls, and doors leading to doors. There are exquisite brick carvings, stone carvings, and wood carvings on the door towers, showing the prosperity of this ancient town in the past. Looking at the century-old shops with their faded traces, it makes people feel as if they have traveled through time.

乌镇的美，美在它的巷。临河边的小巷，短得像一声横笛，河边随风摇曳的杨柳，来不及与它打声招呼，转眼就不见了。短巷该有浣纱的女子吧，恍惚间听到水声，忍不住回头再望，只见是一条摇撸船驶过，短巷尽头仍是空无一人。蔓延到古镇荒草边的小巷，又悠长得像一曲琵琶，悠长得连心都陷进去了。拾掇起记忆的残片，走向幽深或者遥远，让你牵肠挂肚却又看不尽、想不清。在长长短短的小巷间流连久了，仿佛连人也回不来了。

The beauty of Wuzhen lies in its alleys. The small alley by the river is as short as a transverse flute, and the willows swaying in the wind by the river are gone before you can say hello. There should be women washing clothes in the short alley, and in the haze, you hear the sound of water and can't help but look back. What you see is a rowing boat passing by, and at the end of the short alley, there is still no one. The small alley that extends to the edge of the ancient town's wild grass is as long as a pipa, long enough to make your heart sink. Gather up the fragments of memory and walk into the depths or the distance, making you worried and yet unable to see or think clearly. After lingering in the long and short alleys for a long time, it seems that even you can't come back.

乌镇的美，美在它的街灯。小巷深深，得有路灯来照亮，乌镇的街灯很低调、很适度。铁皮白罩，简洁、端庄、秀美、素朴，挂在街巷的角落，不夸张、不挡道、不遮视线，但它却是青砖粉墙上不能缺少的一笔，是乌镇的缩影。曙光初上就隐退，只装点街巷的风景；夜幕一降便上岗，在该亮处发光。月读天，风读地，巷口处遥遥相对的，是一只陈年的灯笼，轻轻地晃，敲着岁月的更。柔柔的街灯照亮夜归的人，他们的心里是暖暖的，柔柔的街灯照亮盼归的人，她们的心里是喜喜的。

乌镇的美，美在它的倒影。乌镇的大部分景物，都有它水中的倒影，仿佛怕年华逝去，常常临水自照，时间久了，水上的和水里的，已分不清哪边才是真实的世界。水悠长又波澜不惊，河道不是很宽，可是恰好完整地映入岸上的风情。选一座桥坐着，自己也坐成倒影的一部分，久久的像一个痴儿。桥影和灯影，是水中倒影最美的两个部分。桥和影，在水面相接，仿佛长久拥抱，永不分离；灯和影，却像是把阳光下的花和雾里的花，一并地展示给你看，无论清晰与朦胧，都让人生出很多的幽思来。

乌镇的美，美在它的布局。乌镇的整体建筑，像极了一幅幅酣畅淋漓的书法——以河面为宣纸，舒舒展展地铺陈开来；以行舟为字体，疏密相间，动静相宜，真如舟行水上一般；以帮岸和水阁为装裱，浓墨重彩地格外生动起来。鸟瞰乌镇，房屋林林总总、挤挤密密，老街高高低低、曲曲折折，满眼是紧凑与生动，像茂密的藤萝做自然的舒卷。这样的手笔，这样的杰作，只能来自热爱生活的心灵，才能与千年文化的传承相匹配。陈向宏和他的团队做到了，千年古镇乌镇做到了，无限敬佩。

乌镇，是一个充满诗意可以做梦的地方。在那儿住下，早起，晚睡。一个人漫步在青石板的路上，或者是幽幽的长巷里，或者是厚重的石桥上；一个人傻看着波澜不惊、波光潋滟的河面，或者是一扇半掩着的、缕着花格的木窗，或者是一墙爬满藤蔓青苔、高高茸立的马头墙，便会似醒非醒地自言自语了。明明我是第一次来，昨这般熟悉和亲切，是前世的记忆？还是今生同样江南水乡长大的缘故，或者电影里、书本里描述的场景烙在了脑海里。此刻的心很温柔，温柔的想做一个长长跨越时空的梦。

2001年，以观光游为主的东栅景区正式对外开放。东栅景区西起应家桥，沿东市河两岸向东至逢源双桥止，占地1.98平方公里。由老街、东市河、明清古厅、水阁、廊棚、展馆、作坊及11座古桥等组成，自东往西复往东形成一个回路，依次分别为传统作坊区（三白酒作坊、蓝印花布作坊等）、传统文化区（江南百床馆、江南民俗馆、江南木雕馆、矛盾古居、修真观和古戏台等）、传统民居区、传统商铺和水乡风情区等。老街已有百余年的历史，两侧俱为清未民国初民居厅堂。

2007年2月，西栅景区正式对外开放。西栅景区占地3.4平方公里。景区四面由“护镇河”包围，将景区分割成12个岛屿式独立街区，72坐石桥坐落其中，景区北侧为天然湿地、自然农垦区、果园等。西栅老街全长1.8公里，保存完好明清建筑及古屋老厅25万多平方米。街区内名胜古迹（乌将军庙、昭明书院等）手工作坊（草木本色染坊、益大丝号、叙昌酱园、亦昌冶坊、三雕作坊）、经典展馆、宗教建筑、民俗风情、休闲场所让人流连忘返，人和环境、自然、建筑和谐融合，自然风光美不胜收。

寒窗巨著垂青史，功德谁能用斗量。东栅，是镇上钟灵毓秀、文昌人杰之处。西端，立志书院、文昌阁旁是茅盾家；东端，财神湾后有木心家。一西一东，双星相耀，矛盾，文学巨匠；木心，文坛偶像。当年，矛盾大展宏图，树文坛丰碑。其时，木心正是小小少年，耳闻目染，见贤思齐，塔下读书承泽“矛盾书屋”。日后，木心文学艺术成就斐然，赢得生前身后名。从此，乌镇东栅一条街，因他们而辉煌。相同的乡里故土，彼此的文学艺术缘分，这样神奇的故事，怎么就单单发生在乌镇东栅？

湖山自昔无今古，代有名贤地更灵。乌镇地沃民秀，诞育俊彦无数。孔氏、陆氏、唐氏第众多名门望族、书香门第，繁衍绵延，几乎左右了乌镇数百年的文脉。沈东𦤎、李乐、鲍廷博、严辰、汤国梨、沈泽民、王会悟、严独鹤等都在各自领域创造非凡成就。晚唐丞相裴休、明代旅游家徐霞客等名贤硕儒，足迹频顾水乡古镇，村头巷尾旧迹依稀，诗文佳话流传至今。乌镇的乡贤名人，有的走出乌镇，建树客地，辉煌他乡；有的则留在家乡，造福百姓，辛勤耕耘。他们是乌镇的代表和骄傲。

唐代银杏宛在，昭明书室依稀。绿水澹澹，清风悠悠，传唱着乌镇似水年华的动人旋律；古桥默默，小巷幽幽，见证了乌镇悠久灿烂的历史奇怪。历经岁月沧桑，古道大都湮没，景观依稀尚存。所幸的是，沿河而筑、“十”字布局的镇区整体格局未变，以街巷河道构成的交通脉络依然清晰，经过“修旧如故”的民居、道路、桥梁等，依旧保存了关于过往的记忆碎片，可以让人遥忆与想象。如今的乌镇，被人们称为“江南水乡古老文明的活态博物馆”。

乌镇街、坊、巷的数量和规模非同小可，俗称四门八坊数十巷，据民国《乌青镇志》记载，当时尚存有八街八坊六十八巷的规模，历尽百年风雨，坊和巷发生了很大变化，但大街的格局依在，尤其是观前街、东大街、南大街、西大街等，不仅保存完好，其功能还在发挥。老街由青石板铺成，已被岁月打磨得锃亮。街两边是马头墙隔出的一间间店铺和住房，临街的房屋由可拆卸的木板构成墙壁。慢慢的走，慢慢的看，便可耗去大半日的光阴。

位于修真观广场的古戏台，建于清乾隆十四年（1749），为歇山式屋顶，飞檐翘角，庄重中透着秀逸。戏台两边的台柱上有副对联：“锣鼓一场，唤醒人间春梦；宫商两音，传来天上神仙。”正中上方悬一横额“以古为鉴”。辛亥革命后，这里是群众集会的场所，也曾是宣传抗日的舞台。今日的舞台从早到晚都有演出，演的是桐乡的地方戏花鼓戏，它是乌镇民间艺术的一朵奇葩，被挖掘恢复，外来者可能听不懂吚吚呀呀的唱腔，但从台下原住民如痴如醉的表情中，可深深感悟到传统文化的无穷魅力。

2013年，乌镇戏剧节横空降落在小镇上，习惯于看越剧、花鼓戏，听评书的乌镇人津津有味地在家门口欣赏着这些现代艺术，并不感到诧异。在他们看来，戏剧就是生活，而生活又像是一场场精彩的戏剧。一千年前如此，一千年后依然如此。戏剧节一年一度，每天都有近百场大小不一的演出，每天都会有惊喜等待发现。古老与现代，东方与西方，不同的文化糅杂拼合在一起，竟然如此和谐融洽，风情万种，这样的乌镇又怎不令人着迷。

乌镇人最密不可分的生活精华都凝在了与乌镇的水相连的三只缸中。一是酒缸，三白酒的醇香，早早绕过了前面的弄堂，用江南百姓生活的瞬间浓烈挑逗远方游客探幽的兴奋。二是染缸，宏源泰蓝白相间的布段，朴素和绵长，不动声色地谋杀着刚从花绿世界跌进古镇人们的相机内存。三是酱缸，酱缸沉香，百转流长。今日西栅通安桥南，《叙昌酱园》的金字招牌仍风采依旧，空气中依然弥漫着那种沉淀在乌镇人骨髓里的韵味，透入肺腑，让人的味蕾在坠落间品出了人生的滋味。

慢步走在东栅大街长长的青石板路上，突然被一阵醇厚的酒香袭中，三白酒的醇香和甜酒酿的糯香，在空气里飘荡着。循着微醺的空气，寻到了三白酒的店铺，掌柜的一脸和气，掌柜背后的墙上，贴着祖师爷高公生的画像，更加地一脸和气。我好奇地拐进店后的酒坊，迎面墙上是一个大大的“酒”字，一面蓝色酒幌挂在后坊，上书“千年古镇，百年糟坊”。再往里走，便是热气蒸腾，酒香浓郁。酿酒的汉子们各自忙碌着，浸白米的，挑酒缸，搬酒坛子的，眯缝着眼睛品尝新酒的，都沉醉在各自的的劳作中，我也看醉了，醺醉了。

三白酒坊又称高公生糟坊，始创于明朝初年，誉为御酒。高公生糟坊为前店后坊格局，主要生产三种产品，三白酒、白糯米酒和甜白酒。何谓三白酒？《乌青镇志》上说“以白米、白面、白水成之，故有此名”。三白酒以糯米为主要原料，生产要经过大米浸淋、蒸饭、摊凉、下缸、糖化、前期发酵、后期发酵、固体分离、蒸馏和储藏陈酿几道环节。产品具有香气浓郁、酒味醇厚、入口柔绵、回味爽净、余香不绝的特点，受到百姓的喜爱。置身于酒坊巨大的蒸笼边看涓涓佳酿滴落坛中，着实是件美事。

中国的蓝印花布世界闻名，乌镇则是蓝印花布的原产地之一。宏源泰染坊始创于宋元年间，系蓝印花布制作基地，也是花布制品集散中心。蓝印花布，又称药斑布、拷花布，是我国传统的民间工艺精品，已有上千年的印染历史。以前，江南一带农村家家户户都使用蓝花印布，窗帘、头巾、围裙、包袱、帐子、台布等都用它来做。至今，乌镇蓝印花布的印染还遵循着祖辈留下的工艺，纹路设计、花稿刻制、涂花版、拷花、染色、晒干等均沿用土法，以其天然田园气息受到欢迎。

位于西栅的草木本色染坊是乌镇手工环保印染晾晒大型工坊。与东栅的宏源泰染坊不同的是，西栅的草木木色染坊除了以蓝草为原料浆染制作蓝印花布工艺外，还有独特的“彩拷”工艺流程，“彩拷”布染色彩丰富，色浆从当地的茶叶、桑树皮、乌桕树叶等草木原料中提取。染坊晒布场地由青砖铺就，竖立着密密麻麻的高杆和阶梯式晒布架，规模相当庞大。那晒场挂着一排排印花的布匹，随风飘荡，像及夕阳中晃着小腰身的重柳，也像极步履婀娜的江南女子，让你一下子就进入温婉的世界。

中国是酱油生产起源最早的国家，距今已有两千多年的历史。乌镇人陶叙昌在清咸丰九年（1859）创立了以自己名字为号的叙昌酱园，有150多年的历史。其酱品都采用传统手工酿制法，前店后坊，自产自销，主要生产瓣酱、酱油、酱菜和酱鸭等系列酱制产品，产品口味独特，深受欢迎。每年春秋，酱园收购邻近村镇的优质黄豆、蚕豆等原料，蒸熟之后，摊在竹匾混合面粉和酱曲，再放到曲房中进行72小时左右的制曲，接下来便是经过长达半年的自然晒露、发酵酿制，整个制作流程才算完成。

走进叙昌酱园，映入眼帘的就是满院子青灰色的酱缸，缸身上“叙昌酱园”、“咸丰年间”的字样昭示着酱园悠远的历史。如若是大晴天，酱缸都被揭去了竹编的大斗竺，尽情地饱吮着阳光的味道，数十米外都能闻到浓郁的酱香。这香味也勾起了童年的记忆，在那个贫瘠的年代，豆酱是早餐绝好的佐料，酱三丁、酱三丝和酱爆蔬菜则在中晚餐之间轮回。春节了，屋檐下挂满了酱色的鸡鸭鱼肉，盼着年三十，只要二片，就可以狼吞虎咽地把一大碗米饭吃个精光，酱味支配着幼小的我的味觉全部。

亦昌冶金创建于明嘉靖年间，创建人湖州铁匠沈济，时为浙北唯一一家冶坊，乌镇冶业从此开端。亦昌冶坊建筑结构独特，所用立柱全用石料雕琢而成，当地人称“石脚屋”，其作用是防止冶炼时溅出的火花引燃木料。天井中安放一口大锅，系清同治五年（1866年）沈家炼官炉建炉100周年之际冶炼而成。工匠们依然使用传统的浇铸工艺制作铁器，只是昔日的煤炭旺火改成了电炉熔铁，风箱扇风也换成了鼓风机助燃，但选料仍然是优质的纯生铁，制作工艺也一如祖辈的繁复精致。

乌镇素有“丝绸之乡”之称，物产富足，其地宜桑，乡民多以养蚕作绵为生。益大丝号始创于光绪初年（1875），创始人沈永昌，是一家包括种桑、养蚕、缫丝、制丝和造绵为一体、声誉卓著的百年老店。织造选用当地名产生丝、鹅绒和孔雀翎、金银线，大花缕机里经过一百道工序才能织出成品，一天仅能织5～6厘米，可谓“寸锦寸金”，该产品又称“乌锦”。想感受悠久的江南蚕桑文化，可在作坊观看国宝级的乌锦织造工艺和珍品，并亲手在古老的缫丝机上操作一番，可获得一种好奇心的满足感。

水上市场是水乡人民傍河成埠，因水成市的一个真实写照，水上市场人称“水市口”，是乌镇人生活贸易中最重要的组成部分。每逢集市期间，四乡八邻的镇村居民们都习惯在清晨摇着船出来喝早茶，顺便赶个早市，把家种的农产品带到集市买卖。临河的居民只要吆喝一声，船就会摇到水阁边，不出门也可以买到新鲜的水果蔬菜。水上集市延续了千百年，而今，于景行桥隔西市河相望的水域，在传承传统集市的基础上，又重新规划调整了集市。集市商品品类更为丰富，质量更有保障。

西栅的水上市场被一条东西走向的木栈桥一分为二，木栈桥与景行桥隔西市河相望，水域东西两侧临河都建有水阁。水乡多的是水产，沿街一字摆开的几个红色大桶，装满了四乡居民捕获的龙虾、甲鱼等水产，鲜活水灵；南来北往的干货也是集市的主角，带上一袋嘎嘣脆的爽口小食，优哉游哉。要说水上集市最出彩的，自然是河面上的船只。船只载着大米、蔬果、新鲜小玩意在河面穿梭。只要你有购买的需求，船夫便会把船摇橹过来，前来兜售。传统水乡的生活方式，也在一招一式中显现。

醒来的乌镇，从曙色里钻出来那么多的船，或撑一支长篙，或摇一柄烂桨，聚向水市口。晨雾还没散去，水市口就熙熙攘攘热闹起来，八方来船已挤满了河道，两边的水阁里，茶馆、肉铺、小吃店、豆腐摊也早早的卸下了门板开张了，水乡的一天拉开了序幕。集市上的小吃一字摆开：葱香阵阵的烧饼、带着异地风味的煎饼果子、喷香松软的炒栗子，若是真正的吃客，一定会来上一份独属于小镇的早点：煎饺、馄饨和大肉包。小葱点缀，骨汤打底，要的就是早晨的一口“鲜极”，美味极了。

“小镇不是用来怀念的，是用来生活的，不仅是为老年人所需要，更多的是为年轻人所喜爱。”这是陈向宏总裁爱说的一句话。自1999年来，他和他的团队在政府的高度重视和大力支持下，第一件事是做好历史风貌的整体保护，注重修旧如故、以存其真。如果东栅是一种静态的保护，那么西栅就是一种动态的保护。西栅对老街所有建筑的内部结构进行了调整，整个历史街区以旅游功能为主进行改造，注入社区概念，配建直饮水、布局雨污分流、网络覆盖，古老外表下有机更新了现代生活形态。

第二阶段是做好文化的传承和创新。着力历史文化名人和传统文化的保护，着力恢复和传承比如香市、姑嫂饼、蓝印花布、三白酒、皮影戏、花鼓戏等传统生产生活习俗，着力拓展乌镇的文化内涵，还增设了乌镇长街宴和戏剧节，建了乌镇大剧院、木心美术馆，做了现代艺术展和视觉艺术展。乌镇开展高质量的文化活动已经成为常态。现在的乌镇，不仅是个古镇，更是一个文化小镇，她不仅是建筑美，还是传统和现代的结合，所以更有内涵和活力。

第三阶段是走向世界。2014年起，中国政府决定举办世界互联网大会，每年一届。乌镇被确定为世界互联网大会永久会址，称“世界互联网大会·乌镇分会”。至2019年10月，已如期举办6届。世界互联网大会落户乌镇，令人称羡，却非偶然。源远流长的历史文化，广联互通的区位优势，强劲的综合实力和互联网经济基础，更有承接古今、融通天下的人文情怀依托。其实，自2000年起，陈向宏就带着他的团队去世界各地观摩、表演和推荐乌镇，通过几年不懈努力，乌镇打开了世界市场。

每年900多万游客光顾，这在世界上都是一个令人瞩目的数字，世界互联网大会选择乌镇为永久会址，也正是基于乌镇前几年打下的坚实基础，这种文化的传承，为这个镇走向世界打开了一个窗口。乌镇走到今天，最可贵的是，她做好自身文脉传承在同时，积极融入了外面的世界，紧跟科技的发展趋势，对接了互联网时代。最后的枕水人家是乌镇特有的建筑形态，无论是基于从她的历史传承，还是从她现在展示的活跃身姿看，乌镇都不是静态的，她充满活力和无限可能，这是乌镇的特性和神奇。

曙光初露的晨曦，夕阳西下的黄昏，行走在乌镇，一股氤氲厚重的历史气息便扑面而来，仿佛让人置身历史与现实的交错时空里。乌镇的繁华、灵秀和深沉，都是历史积淀使然。现实洒落在淡淡的初阳光芒或斜阳余晖里，石板路，石板桥、石帮岸及帮岸上的廊棚，木门、木窗、木墙及水阁上的木板，每个角落，每个物件，都在默默地向每一位曾经到过或梦中向往乌镇的人诉说历史的往事。在乌镇，看到的是历史，踩到的也是遗迹，所以得轻轻地走、静静的看、慢慢的品、幽幽的思。繁华只是乌镇的外在形态，而沉静才是乌镇的内在特质。

保护、开发、传承和创新，这是乌镇的经验和模式；让最先进的世界文明成果与最悠久的中华文明积淀交流互鉴，让现代信息技术与中华传统文化交相辉映，这是乌镇的亮点和特色。第七届世界互联网大会·乌镇峰会将于11月23日在乌镇召开，中华历史文化与现代信息技术文明一年一度的风云际会，东道主乌镇自然得天独厚，可喜可贺，让世人羡慕不已。当全球互联网精英如约而至，新思想和新理念接踵而来，定会撞击出新的智慧火花；当现代信息技术成果汇聚于此，必将催生出创业合作的新机遇和新活力。以中华传统文化为底色，以现代信息技术为引领，乌镇将再一次站在续写历史成就未来的发展新起点上。

参考文献：《乌镇志》和《乌镇东西》 等 文字：倪捷儿 编辑：倪捷儿 审读：鄢祖锋 摄影：千喜 化妆：晨雪 出镜人：倪捷儿、陈望京 服装：修奇品牌 拍摄地点：乌镇东栅西栅