我爬金山长城,老外告诉我北京有个古村子,说爨底下村有味道。

这村子并不大,石头垒砌的房子是山里人坚守生活的需要,只是今天的人们视这原始为美,名气也逐渐大了。

有关“爨”字的由来,其一是根据姓氏而来;其二是源于军事。再咬文嚼字,“爨”是烧火做饭,分居各爨。

我寄宿在“财主家”四合院里的一间小屋,门锁是铜挂锁,钥匙上系了一根红绳,像我小时候揣在裤袋里的抽屉钥匙。如今,这种生活的味道没有了。

这古村落扎在山坳子里,房子是依山势而建,象形“爨”字的间架,形状如同支起的锅灶。

第二天早晨,山里是雨霏霏的天,我打着伞走遍了条条雨巷,还去了山上的土地庙看了看,给山神敬柱香。这雨巷没有戴望舒笔下那么惆怅,但也有另一番味道,敦敦实实的蜿蜒石阶,给人一种逶迤曲回的游离,如同行云流水般的勾勒出朱雀玄武。

走进村子,欣赏眼前与别处迥然不同的北方村落,有感北方的浑厚。

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LIU GONG

Liu Gong, born in 1964 in Nanjing, China, is a professional artist, painter and free-lancer. His paintings are included in Chinese Paintings of Masters, China Collections, Chinese Special Stamps of Masterpieces and Modern Paintings. He has authored Modern Paintings • Liu Gong’s Special Issue, Stories in Nanjing, Chinese Undercurrent Culture and The Spiritual Meaning of Chinese Paintings.