行走在巴塔哥尼亚的百内国家公园 Hiking in Patagonia - Torres Del Paine

Huicong

飞行一万多公里，历时15个小时，我们从美洲最北国家，飞越赤道，来到美洲最南国家的最南端 Punta Arenas，这里是智利离南极最近的一个城市，几乎快到南极了。

Flying 10,000 kilometres, 15 hours, we came to the southmost city Punta Arenas, Chile, the closest city to Antarctica.

我们已经在南美洲的尽头了。

We are at the end of South America.

We came here for hiking at Torres Del Paine in Patagonia.

Torres del Paine is a national park encompassing mountains, glaciers, lakes, and rivers in southern Chilean Patagonia. The park is one of the 11 protected areas of the Magallanes Region and Chilean Antarctica. It is a popular hiking destination in Chile. The park has been elected as one of the fifty places that you must go once in your life by National Geographic, also as one of the five most beautiful places in the world. Hikers can opt for a day trip to see the towers, walk the popular "W" route in about five days, or trek the full circle in 8 to 9 days.

This google map marks our trekking footprint.

我们来到这里是为了在 Patagonia (巴塔哥尼亚) 的 Torres Del Paine (百内) 徒步。

百内是巴塔哥尼亚高原上的一片原始自然保护区，被《国家地理杂志》评选为世界上50个一生要去的地方之一。也有说它是世界五大美景之一。

由于靠近南极，这里有美丽的极地风光，除了冰川、湖泊、群峰、山谷，还有各种巴塔哥尼亚高原上的野生动物，如美洲狮，狐狸，驼马，驼鹿，羊驼等。这里是世界最佳徒步旅行目的地，是全球所有徒步爱好者的徒步天堂。

百内徒步路线有O线和W线。

这是 google map 的卫星图，标注着黄色星星的地方记录着我们的足迹。

Only 3 boarding gates at Punta Arenas airport, isn’t it cute?

Punta Arenas 的机场只有三个登机口。这样的登机口很特别吧！

Punta Arenas is the southernmost city in the world, and the capital city of Chile's southernmost region, Magallanes and Antartica Chilena, located on the Brunswick Peninsula north of the Strait of Magellan.

Punta Arenas 是世界最南城市之一，是智利南极区和麦哲伦省的首府，位于麦哲伦海峡西岸。

Punta Arenas is 250 kilometres away from Puerto Natales, the gate town of Torres Del Paine, 3 hours bus taking to arrive. The water poles behind me is the icon of Puerto Natales.

Punta Arenas 距离 Torres Del Paine (百内) 的门户小镇 Puerto Natalas 250公里，乘车3个小时。我身后的水柱是这个小镇的标志。

We booked this Hotel with Fjord view to treat us for the upcoming challenges.

徒步之前，犒劳一下即将面临挑战的我们，订了这个 Fjord view 的酒店。

We can see the Fjord from our room.

从房间里就能看到 Fjord。

In order to gain more energy, we ordered king crab, lamb, steak... before trekking.

当然也要补充体力，吃点智利有名的 king crab，羊啊，牛啊的。

Puerto Natales is 115 kilometres away from the park gate, 2 hours bus taking. We get warm welcome from guanacos on our way to the park.

Puerto Natales 距离百内正门还有115公里，2个多小时的车程。邻近百内，随处可见这些憨态可掬的驼鹿。

We will go W route, from west to east. We need to take boat at Fefugio Pudeto to go to Paine Grande, our trekking start point. We already feel the beauty of Paine Massif on the boat.

我们走W线，从西向东走。那就要从 Fefugio Pudeto 乘船到 Paine Grande，开始徒步。在船上就已经感受到了百内群峰的美了。

W route needs 5 days 4 nights, 80 kilometres. There will be no data & no WiFi, no emails & no phone calls, no WeChat & no moments.

W线需5天，O线需9天。我们走W线，5天4夜，80公里的徒步就从这里开始。徒步中，没有data没有Wi-Fi，没有邮件没有电话，没有微信没有朋友圈。

I am ready!

我已进入状态！

The road sigh is so natural! It tells where we are, the attitude, distance between refugios or mirador.

这里的路标都是这么的贴近自然！路标上告诉你所在的位置，高度，距离2个营地或观景点的距离。

This is the trail we are walking on!

我们是在这样的路上走！

Also this!

还有这样的路上！

Still 6 kilometres away from tonight’s refogio at Glacier Grey...... all the way up on the mountain, and with heavy load backpack, really hard!

距离今晚的 Glacier Grey 营地还有6公里……一直在上山，还要负重，真的很累！

2 more kilometres ahead......

还有2公里......

Eventually we are reaching Glacier Grey refugio. Tonight’s sunset is at 9:44pm.

终于在旁晚时分到了今晚的 Glacier Grey 营地。今晚日落时间是9:44pm。

Nov 28, 2017

This is where we live tonight. We brought our own sleeping bags.

今晚就住这里。我们自己带了睡袋。

Day 1 走了13.4公里。

Glacier Grey 格雷冰川

In the morning, we went to see Glaicer Grey.

Grey Glacier is a glacier in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. Before dividing in two at its front end, the glacier is 28 kilometers long, 6 kilometers wide and over 30 meters high.

清晨，去看格雷冰川。

格雷冰川是位于巴塔哥尼亚南部冰原的一个冰川，长28公里，宽6公里，高30米。

The first time so close to see glacier! So excited!

The day we are heading to Glacier Grey, a large iceberg broke off the glacier, which measured 350m (1,148ft) long by 380m (1,247ft) wide, as it floated free in waters of a glacial lagoon near the southern tip of the South American continent. The area of the ice block measured 133,000 square meters, equals 106 standard swimming pools area. We witnessed the break of Glacier Grey.

第一次这么近距离的观看冰川，激动得不得了！

就在我们向格雷冰川行进的当天，一块巨大的蓝白色冰块，长350米、宽380米，从格雷冰川上脱落，并漂浮在 Lago Grey 中。而分裂出来的大冰块面积约13万3000平方米，相当于约106个标准游泳池大小。标准游泳池长50米、宽21米。我们见证了格雷冰川的分裂。

This is the news reported iceberg break off Glacier Grey.

这是当天报道格雷冰川分裂的新闻。

So beautiful the glacier! Recording the amazing moment is a must!

这么壮美的冰川，当然要留下美好的回忆！

Our handsome son!

我们家的小帅哥！

My Hubby, is he handsome?! :)

老帅哥?！:)

Back from Glacier Grey, under sunshine, so relaxing!

Starting hiking on day 2!

从格雷冰川回到营地，沐浴在阳光下，好不惬意！接着开始 day 2 的旅程。

Far and far away from Glacier Grey......

离格雷冰川越来越远……

Tired, take a rest.

走累了，坐下来休息休息。

Paine Massif panorama

百内群峰 panorama

只要在高处，就能一睹百内群峰的风采。

Paine Massif under blue sky

蓝天白云下的百内群峰

Paine Massif from far away

Back to yesterday’s starting point Paine Grande from Glacier Grey.

远处的百内群峰

原路返回昨天的路线，从 Glaicer Grey 回到 Paine Grande。

Tonight’s Paine Grande refogio, this is the biggest one of all refogios in the park.

这是今晚住宿的 Paine Grande 营地。这是百内几个营地当中最大的一个。

Day 2 走了14.5公里。

We are heading to Valle Frances. The trail to Valle Frances is like this.

今天要去 Valle Frances 法国谷。去法国谷的路是这样的。

Crossing water, no worries, we are wearing water proof hiking boots.

要过河，不怕的，我们穿的是防水透气的登山鞋。

The trail is not an easy one, climbing mountain, crossing water and walking on the rocks. Only done 0.5 kilometres! Keep going, come on!

路确实不好走，上山，过河，还要踩在乱石上。才走了0.5公里。继续，加油！

More and more close to Valle Frances!

离法国古愈来愈近。

Finally we are reaching Valle Frances.

终于到达了法国谷。

Iceberg is just in front. Iceberg is cracking, cracking sound is spreading out, and some iceberg is breaking off.

清晰可见的淡蓝色的冰原就在眼前。不时地听到冰原断裂的轰轰巨响，目睹大块冰原从山顶上分离脱落下来。

Back from Valle Frances and going to Italiano refugio to pick up our backpacks, where we left our backpacks for light load.

In order to prevent catching fire, hikers need to cook inside this shelter and can only use propane. A hiker had ever caught a big fire when cooking, and destroyed a large forest.

从法国谷回来，去 Camping Italians 意大利营地取背包去今晚的 Frances 营地。去法国谷之前把背包放在了途径的意大利营地，轻装上阵。

这个是在意大利营地的厨房，如果想要自己做饭，就一定要在这里面做，只可以用气罐，为的是防火。曾经有一徒步者在做饭时引起火灾，烧了很大一片树林。

This is the only night we did not get the book of refugio, but we got the book of tent with platform, thus we don’t need to bring our own tent.

今晚是这4晚当中唯一没有订上木屋的一晚。不过也还好，订上了带 platform 的帐篷。不至于自己背帐篷。

Not forget to read even on travel:)

徒步旅行也不忘读书 :)

Son sleeping in the tent looks like a little baby :)

宝宝睡在帐篷里的样子就像一个小 baby :)

We feel not bad even sleeping in the tent, we still have running water and hot water for shower and cleaning, more so the area is tidy enough!

即使是住帐篷，营地的条件也不错。这里用的是太阳能供热的热水系统，running water, hot water，干净整洁。

Shower room.

淋浴间。

Bathroom.

盥洗室。

Day 3 走了17.8公里

Heading to Chileno refugio in the morning.

清晨出发去 Chileno 营地。

All day walking along Lago Nordenskjord. Massif reflection in the green lake with snow mountain all around, it is so spectacular!

差不多一天都在沿着 Lago Nordenskjord 走。淡绿色的湖水中映射出山峰的倒影，在远处雪山的映衬下，美丽，苍茫，壮观！

Crossing bridge.

要过桥。

Crossing water even if there is no bridge.

没有桥的溪流，就要淌水过去。

The clouds looks so incredible!

天边的云彩是那样的迷人！

From this short cut, temporarily son will go separately from us to the last point, he will take the stuff that we won’t use tonight to reduce our backpacks load, but he needs to walk some extra kilometres. He grows up! I am so proud of him!

从这个 short cut，宝宝和我们要暂时分开，他把不需要带到营地的物品先送到明天离开百内的最后一个地点。这样我们可以减轻一些负重。只是宝宝要辛苦多走好多的路了。他真的长大了！我好欣慰！

This is the last section to Chileno refugio. Walking in the valley, so amazing!

这是通往 Chileno 营地的最后一段路。就这样地，走在山谷里，美不胜收！

So tired, really want to get a horse to ride!

走累了，真想骑上一匹马！

Love this sign very much!

太喜欢这个路标了！

Eventually I am at the refugio! I am wet all over!

The people running the refugio is so cute! The black board has everything you need, such as weather report, bus schedule, sunset & sunrise time......

终于走到了营地，我全身都湿透了！

经营营地的人真可爱！小黑板上有你所需要的各种信息，天气预报，时刻表，日出时间......

No wonder why everything here is so expensive, as all supplies are delivered in and out by helicopters.

难怪这里的一切都很贵，那是因为所有的物资都只能用直升飞机运送。

Our meals ordered might be in the package hung by this helicopter.

这架直升飞机吊着的包裹里可能就有我订的餐。

Day 4 走了18.7公里。

3 o’clock in the morning, we woke up and departed to the most famous Base Las Torres to see sunrise.

凌晨三点出发去百内最著名的 Base Las Torres 三塔看日出。

Today’s Sunrise is at 5:37 am.

今天百内的日出时间是5:37am。

Dec 2, 2017

Base Las Torres is just in front.

三塔已呈现在眼前。

Golden Base Las Torres panorama

日照金山 panorama

Golden Base Las Torres

日照金山

Take a photo with golden Base Las Torres.

我和日照金山合个影。

Although there is only 4 kilometres from refugio to Base Las Torres, this 4 kilometres are all the way up by almost 400 metres attitude high, and also walking at the dark night with headlight, on the rocks, crossing water & bridges......

In the last one kilometre, I could not go any further, and wanted to give up. But I finally made it with hubby’s help and encouragement. I got see Base Las Torres, sunrise and the golden colour. I am so proud of myself!

从营地到三塔，虽说只有4公里，可这4公里一直在上升，还要在漆黑的夜里带着头灯，踩着乱石，汤着河水，踏着小桥......

最后一公里处，我真的不想走了，想放弃了，真的走不动了。最终，在老公的帮助鼓励下，我还是坚持走完了全程，登上了三塔，看到了日出，看到了日出金山。I am so proud of myself !!!

The trail to Base Las Torres is like this.

黑夜里就是走在这样的路上去三塔看日出的。

Walking on such a small bridge.

踏着这样的小桥。

You might be followed by it if you walk away from the trail.

如果你偏离 trail 走，你还会可能被它尾随。

We will leave Torres Del Paine.

就要离开百内了。

Back home along this direaction indicator.

顺着这个方向标指引的方向回家。

Day 5 走了14.2公里。

Clearly see the Fjord on the plane

飞机上清晰可见的 Fjord

Clearly see the glacier on the plane

飞机上清晰可见的冰川

W route, well completed!

Forever memorable & unforgettable experience!

百内W线，圆满完成！

此山此水，此生难忘！