2017年10月英国南部自驾之旅之二《普利茅斯》

晒轮

2017年10月11日至10月16日，行程6天，租车自驾了英国南部的坎特伯雷、索尔兹伯里、普利茅斯、彭赞斯，一路也顺便浏览了多弗尔、比奇角、英国的Land's End、科茨沃尔德（Cotswolds）的拜伯里、 下斯特劳斯，水上伯尔顿。共行车1517公里。为了方便阅读，将行程中的坎特伯雷、普利茅斯、彭赞斯3处景点做成美篇。

2016年自驾游美国时，曾去了几个与美国独立有关的城市，如波士顿、费城、巴尔的摩，游览了费城的独立宫、波士顿的自由之路和麻省的普利茅斯等几个与美国独立有关的“红色”景点。

在游览美国人文的祖先、1620年从英国来到美国的“五月花号”船上的清教徒们登陆普利茅斯的景点时，感觉这一切既陌生又熟悉；既遥远又似近在眼前。似乎与中国革命的历程不无相似，都是由一群少数人的星星之火而燎原起来的？而来美国的是一群什么样的人？是一群有抱负、有大志的革命先驱？还是一群来发财致富的投机冒险之徒？是一群饱学之士为实现理想而前来奋斗？还是一群身经百战的强人来此血腥征服赢得天下？

不管怎样，这些人的后代在此生存发展下来，并在此建立了一个新的国家―美利坚合众国，而且认定现在的美国精神就是这些人的精神。

据说这些人当初是怀着对“被迫害”的不满，从英国的普利茅斯港乘“五月花号”船离开自己祖国的，而且一去不返。终于在有一天，154年后的1775年4月19日凌晨向祖先祖国的英国军队打响了美国独立的第一枪，并在1776年的7月4日通过《独立宣言》，成立了美利坚合众国。又过了150多年，这个独立的美利坚合众国取代了祖先祖国的日不落帝国，成为世界第一强国。

两个 “普利茅斯”，如同曾经连接英国与美国脐带的两头，有着血脉的相通，也有着割断的疼痛。

我们来英国的普利茅斯，是要看看这个诞生美国精神的“源点”和美国人文祖先的“起点”。

2017年10月13日

早餐后，我们告别了肯特郡的坎特伯雷，开车前往距离坎特伯雷约30公里多佛尔（Dover）海峡，面见一下这个不寻常的地方。

多佛尔海峡（Strait of Dover），法国一侧称加莱海峡，位于英吉利海峡的东部，介于英国和法国之间，是连接北海与大西洋的通道。海峡长30——40公里，最窄处仅28.8公里，大部分水深24～50米，最深64米。现是国际航运要道，航运十分繁忙，每年通过12万艘次以上的船舶。

公元前55年8月末的一个夜晚，罗马共和国著名的政治家、军事家，后成为罗马帝国实际帝皇的凯撒，率领1万名装备优良的罗马士兵，乘坐80艘战船从法国的布洛涅出发，进发不列颠岛，次日清晨，来到了多佛尔，由此开启了罗马帝国入侵不列颠长达354年的历史，英国也从此开始有了文字记载的历史，随罗马人而来的雇佣兵一支，盎格鲁-撒克逊人开始在此扎根、繁衍，代替了当地的斯旺斯贡布人、比克人、凯尔特人而成为不列颠的主人。　

隔着多佛尔海峡，对面就是法国的加莱。不列颠岛和欧洲大陆过去是相连的，大约在9000年前，气候突然变暖，海平面上升，欧洲大陆的西北岸发生了陆沉，不列颠逐步与欧洲大陆分离，成为孤悬在大西洋上的海岛。　

　在多佛尔白崖高地上眺望了多佛尔海峡和海港，对面就是法国的加莱。就此告别，我们开车继续向普利茅斯方向，前行约120公里，来到了位于英格兰东萨塞克斯郡伊斯特本西南的英吉利海峡岸边的比奇角（Beachy Head）。

比奇角，是一处白垩岩组成的海岸悬崖，悬崖高达162米，是英国最高的海岸悬崖，据说已经有一亿年的历史。比奇角悬崖垂直于海平面上，雪白的崖壁在阳光的映射下显得熠熠生辉，碧蓝色的海面生成源源不断的淡蓝色的波涛。这是一个”美丽的海角”。

另外，这里也是世界著名自杀圣地，排名第四（1、富士山，2、金门大桥，3、尼加拉瀑布）而闻名于世。　

　欣赏了比奇角，我们开车约180公里，前往索尔兹伯里，参观了索尔兹伯里大教堂。这是英国著名的天主教堂，13世纪早期哥特式建筑，大教堂有英国最高的塔楼、最大的大教堂回廊，欧洲最古老的机械塔钟，存有原始的“大宪章”（并且是四份“大宪章”中保存最完好的一份）。索尔兹伯里大教堂是历代朝圣之地。

参观结束后，开车49公里，去伯恩茅斯的住宿地。

　

傍晚到达驻地，因联系地址只有邮编，没有门牌号码，代替门牌号码的是一个花园的图案，谷歌导航告诉我们已到达，但我们按图索骥找了一遍也没见到相似的院子。只好去打扰当地居民，最后还是靠一位路边行走的男士，热情地带我们直接找了过去，“索骥到家”。不知何故？这家真的没有门牌号码。（英国的地址由城市、街道、邮编、门牌号码组成，邮编多数情况下可以等同门牌号）

一位“老奶奶”坐在窗前等候我们，看到我们到来很开心，领着我们去休息的卧室。走进一个漂亮的院落，再有一个舒适的阳台，里面就是我们的卧室。原来这是他们家的餐厅，因孩子们都有自己的小家啦，大餐厅空闲了，就改成民居了。“老奶奶"原是教艺术的老师，墙上挂着的画，桌上摆着的雕塑，庭院的设计，都出自她的巧手。

　

“老奶奶”告诉我们，下面桌上摆放的雕塑人像，都是她亲手制作的作品，其中一位是她已去世的父亲。　　

2017年10月14日

因行程安排紧凑，早餐后我们与艺术老师的房东话别，开车前往普利茅斯。

开车约200公里，到达普利茅斯（Plymouth），已近中午11点，天气阴冷还伴有细雨。普利茅斯位于英国英格兰西南区域德文郡，是一座有丰富航海史的城市，曾经是英国皇家海军的造船厂，也是16——19世纪，英国人出海的港口。重要的是1620年搭载着部分英国清教徒的“五月花号”商货船由此港出发前往美洲“新世界”，并最终成就了1776年7月4日美利坚合众国的诞生。

谷歌导航告诉我们即将到达目的地，我们及时将车停在路边可以停车的地方，自动收费机处付费，一次停车最长时间为1小时30分钟。

我们终于来到了普利茅斯港，也真的找到了《五月花号博物馆》。下图是位于港口路边的《五月花号博物馆》。

博物馆小巧玲珑，分布在楼中的1组垂直单元中，一楼是商店，销售参观门票和纪念品，五月花号博物馆就在楼上3楼、4楼的单元中，门票成人每人每票3磅。

博物馆展示的大多为图片和文字说明，少部分的模型和样品。博物馆用图片和文字，尽可能详实地告诉参观者，398年前发生在英国、荷兰和美国之间与《五月花号》商货船有关的故事。文字说明都为英文书写，对于只有初级英文基础的我们，只能看看图片，拍下文字说明，再通过电脑翻译，结合阅读一些历史书籍，来了解说明中所叙述的故事。

在1楼购买参观门票后，可搭乘升降电梯直达3楼单元，进入五月花号博物馆。

博物馆为专题博物馆，面积有限，但尽可能的收集了与《五月花号》有关的故事，梳理了来龙去脉，另外，博物馆里有一个露天阳台，面对着普利茅斯港的一个码头，码头上有一扇《五月花号》出港纪念门。

下面是博物馆展出的图片和文字说明，我们把它输入在电脑中，再录入美篇，我们是通过电脑的在线翻译成中文，读起来不很顺畅，对于英文好的朋友，可以直接阅读英文。在录入电脑时，可能会有错误，请多谅和包涵，也欢迎指出，帮助改正。

BEGINNINGS 开始

this is the story of the MAYFLOWER PILGRIMS A story which has become firmly embedded in our collective histories and an enduring tale of courage in the face of adversity.Though these ear settlers of the New World play a significant role in America'spast,they left their mark in Plymouth too.电脑翻译上面的文字：“这是一个有关五月花清教徒的故事。这个故事深深地印在了我们的历史记忆中，并成为一个在逆境中生存的不朽的故事。虽然这些到达新世界的移民现在美国扮演着重要的角色，但他们也在普利茅斯留下了自己的印记。

these early religious refugees, or PURITANS, who sailed into Plymouth by chance,were only in port for a few days.However,evidence of their stay can be seen on the streets around the city ,with MAYFLOWER a familiar name heard by many. 这些早期的宗教难民，或清教徒，偶然来到普利茅斯，只是在港口停留了几天。然而，在城市周围的街道上可以看到他们留下的痕迹，The MayFLOWER set sail from Plymouth for the NEW World in 1620,however,this epic journey begins some years earlier in the Midlands, in a small village called Scrooby. 许多人都听说过“五月花”这个名字。1620年，“五月花号”从普利茅斯出发前往新大陆，然而，这一史诗般的旅程开始于一些年之前的中部地区，在一个叫做斯克比的小村庄。”

THE TRUE CHURCH真正的教会

The Pilgrims were originally a group of religious people from the Midlands and the North of England. They believed there was a need for reforms to purify the church. 清教徒最初是一群来自英格兰中部和北部的宗教人士。他们认为需要改革来净化教堂。The more radical of the Puritans were know as Separatists. These Separatists began to withdraw from the church and formed independent congregations, Persecuted for their faith, they resolved to find freedom in exile where they could live according to their religious beliefs. 清教徒中较为激进的人被称为分离主义者。这些分离主义分子开始从教会撤离，并成立独立的教会，因为信仰而受到迫害，他们决定在流放中寻找自由，在那里他们可以按照自己的宗教信仰生活。

Like other English Puritans, these Separatists had different views from the Church of England.It was very unusual at this time to question the church and the supremacy of the state,as head of the church. This made Living in England difficult for them. 和其他英国清教徒一样，这些分离分子与英国国教有不同的观点。在这个时候质疑教会和国家至高无上的地位是很不寻常的，作为教会的领袖。这使他们在英国生活困难。

'Seeing themselves thus molested...by a joint consent they resolved to go into the low countries(Holland),where they heard was freedom of religion for all.' WILLIAM BRADFORD“看到自己这样难受……经双方一致同意，他们决定进入低地国家(荷兰)，在那里他们听到的是人人享有宗教自由。” 威廉·布拉德福德

break for freedom对自由的破坏

经过几次尝试，清教徒们才设法从英国逃了出来。

First Attempt第一次尝试

The first attempt was made by the congregation of a church at Scrooby in Nottinghamshire.They wanted to flee religious persecution and leave for a more tolerant Holland,which had long been a haven for exiled English Separatist families.The Dutch were liberal and accepting of people who did not share their views.They themselves had also suffered religious persecution at the hands of Spain. 第一次尝试是在诺丁汉郡的克劳比教堂举行的。他们想逃离宗教迫害，前往更宽容的荷兰，那里长期以来一直是流亡英国的分离主义家庭的避难所。荷兰人是自由主义者，接受不同意他们观点的人。他们自己也曾受到西班牙的宗教迫害。

However,word of their attempt to escape got out and officers of the Crown arrested the emigrants and they were put in prison for a month. 然而，他们试图逃跑的消息传出后，王室官员逮捕了移民，他们被监禁了一个月。

Second Attempt第二次尝试

The next attempt was more successful. in 1607,a number of Pilgrim families arranged to board a boat at Immigration Creek in the Humber Estuary.However,the ship left before the women and children could get on board and the women were arrested, It was a year before the failies were reunited in Amsterdam. 下一次尝试较为成功。1607年，一些朝圣者的家庭安排在亨伯河口的移民河上登船。然而，在妇女和儿童上船之前，这艘船离开了，妇女们被逮捕了，这是在阿姆斯特丹重新团聚的一年之前。

Exile in Holland流亡在荷兰

The Pilgrims found it hard to settle in Amsterdam,with its strange language and customs. There was also an English Reform Church already estabished in the city and religious issues began to arise between them and the Pilgrims.William Brewster,the Elder of the Leiden community,resolved that the only way to keep the flock together and protected from contentions with the Ancient Brethren, was to move to Leiden. 清教徒们发现很难在阿姆斯特丹定居，因为他们的语言和风俗很奇怪。在城市中已经建立了一个英国改革教会，宗教问题也开始出现在他们和清教徒之间。莱顿社区的长者威廉·布鲁斯特(William Brewster)决定，保护他们不与教徒兄弟们争论的唯一的办法就是将清教徒们搬到莱顿去（荷兰的一个城镇）。

Preparations for the move were undertaken by Brewster and their new pastor,John Robinson .With permission granted by the mayors and magistrates, the Pilgrims could now move to Leiden. 这一行动的准备工作由布鲁斯特和他们的新牧师约翰·罗宾逊进行。在市长和地方官员的允许下，这些清教徒们现在可以搬到莱顿去了。

Howere, despite much support from the town's people, the refugees were not happy there.the refugees were not happy there. 然而，尽管该镇人民给予了大量支持，难民们还是不高兴。难民们在那里并不快乐。They found it hard to make a living and could not establish the kind of religious community they had hoped for. The Dutch treated Sunday as a day for eating,drinking and enjoyment, but the Pilgrims thought it should be a day for prayer. They also feared that their children would grow up more Dutch than English.The situation in Holland was becoming more unsettled too,as religious disputes threatened civil war and peace with Spain was coming to an end. 他们发现很难谋生，也无法建立他们所希望的宗教团体。荷兰人把星期日当作吃喝享乐的日子，但清教徒认为这一天应该是祈祷的日子。他们还担心他们的孩子长大后会成为更有荷兰血统的英国人。荷兰的局势也变得更加动荡，因为宗教争端威胁到内战，与西班牙的和平也即将结束。

LOOKING TO THE NEW WORLD 放眼新世界

'So left the goodly and pleasantie citie which had been the resting place near 12 years; but they were pilgrims and looked not these things, but lift up their eyes to ye heavens, their dearest cuntrie, and quieted their spirits.' WILLIAM BRADFORD“因此，离开了那美好而快乐的城市，那是近12年的安息之所;但他们是清教徒，并不是看这些东西，而是仰望天空，他们最亲爱的cuntrie，让他们的灵魂安静下来。“威廉·布拉德福德

Meanwhile, across the Atlantic,an English colony called Jamedtown established in the Powhatan territory was beginning to flourish. There was much debate amongst the Leiden people that if they exited to the New World, they could finally have religious freedom away from the dangers of their current situation. 与此同时，在大西洋对岸的波瓦坦地区，一个名叫詹姆斯敦的英国殖民地开始繁荣起来。在莱顿的人们中有很多争论，如果他们前往这个新世界，他们就可以摆脱目前的危险，摆脱宗教的威胁。The Pilgrims purchased a small ship, the Speedwell, for the journey. Around 22 July 1620, they departed Holland for Southampton. There they planned to meet with a second ship, the Mayflower, where other families world join them and together set sail for the New World. 清教徒们购买了一艘小船，即“快速号”。1620年7月22日左右，他们离开荷兰前往南安普顿。在那里，他们计划与另一艘船“五月花号”见面，在那里，其他的家庭也加入到他们的行列，共同起航去新世界。

FUTURE INVEST MENT 投资未来

The Pilgrims needed financial support for their new venture and at this time. a wealthy London Iron Merchant named Thomas Weston arrived in Leiden with a proposal. He persuaded the Pilgrims that he could provide financial backing in return for receiving a sizable share of the colony's profits,once they had settled in the New World.His plan was to set up a joint stock company, in which adventurers in England invested money in the mission. Meanwhile, the planters or Pilgrims would send back profits they made from trade or fishing, during the first seven years of settlement. 清教徒们需要资金支持他们的新冒险。一个名叫托马斯·韦斯顿的富有的伦敦钢铁商人带着一个建议来到了莱顿。他说服了清教徒们，一旦他们在新大陆定居下来，他就可以提供经济上的支持，以换取在殖民地获得相当大的利润。他的计划是成立一家股份制公司，英国的冒险家们投资于该公司。与此同时，在最初的7年的殖民时期，种植园主或清教徒们将把他们从贸易或渔业中获取的利润返还给他们。The Leiden group also needed a place to settle and after long delays and much expense, secured a patent from the London Virginia Company. This granted them permission to establish a plantation near the mouth of the Hudson River. This land,however,was the territory of the Native American Lenape Nation, who were unaware that their homeland had been granted to another people. 莱顿集团还需要一个地方安顿下来，经过长时间的拖延和大量的开支，获得了伦敦维吉尼亚公司的一项专利。这允许他们在哈德逊河河口附近建立一个种植园。然而，这片土地是印第安人Lenape民族的领地，他们不知道他们的家园被赋予了另一个民族。

Strangers on Board 船上的陌生人

To make up the number of planters traveling to the New World, other settlers were hired by the investors to travel with the Pilgrims,The Pilgrims did not like this, they called the non-Pilgrims Strangers. So,with many misgivings,the journey was underway. 为了弥补前往新大陆的种植园主的数量，其他移民被投资者雇来与清教徒一起旅行，清教徒们不喜欢这样，他们称这些非清教徒为陌生人。因此，有了许多疑虑，旅程开始了。

THE MAYFLOWER AND THE SPEEDWELL “五月花号”和“快速号”船

Of the two ships bought to take the coloniste across the Atlantic,only the Mayflower completed the voyage. 在这两艘船中，只有五月花号完成了航程。

The Speedwell was a small cargo ship bought and fitted out in Holland .It was intended for use as a fishing and trading ship once the Pilgrims arrived in the New World .However,the masts and sails were too tall and too heavy.This put her under much strain and meant she constantly needed repairs. “快速号”是一艘在荷兰购买和装备的小型货船。当清教徒抵达新大陆时，它被用来作为捕鱼和贸易船。然而，桅杆和船帆都太高了，太沉重了。这使她承受了很大的压力，意味着她需要不断的修理。

The Mayflower was a typical merchant ship of the early 17th century and was previously used for shipping wine,tar, herring and timber. she was a much stronger vessel than the Speedwell, well-built and reliable. 五月花号是17世纪早期的一种典型的商船，以前用于运输葡萄酒、焦油、鲱鱼和木材。她是一艘比 “快速号”结实得多的船，结实可靠。

FALSE STARTS 失败的开始

After 11 days in port, the Mayflower and Speedwell left Southampton on 5 August 1620. however,after traveling only a few miles, the Speedwell sprang a leak. Both ships had to put into Dartmouth ,in Devon,while the Speedwell was repaired. Around 20 August,the two ships set sail once again.They were complaints that the Speedwell was once again letting in water. 在港口11天之后，五月花号和 “快速号”在1620年8月5日离开南安普敦。然而，在仅仅行驶了几英里之后，这个 “快速号”就产生了一个突然的泄露。两艘船都不得不进入德文郡的达特茅斯，在那里修复了 “快速号”船。8月20日左右，两艘船再次起航。但 “快速号”又一次进水了。The ships sailed back to Plymouth, this being the most convenient port to use. Here the Speedwell was further examined,the general conclusion was that she was over-masted and carrying too much for the Atlantic crossing.It was decided to abandon the Speedwell, with passenger and provisions now crowding onto the femaining ship,the Mayflower. 船驶回普利茅斯，这是最方便的港口。在这里，进一步检查了 “快速号”船的情况，总的结论是她桅杆过高，而且携带的东西太多，无法穿越大西洋。决定放弃这艘 “快速号”船，所有的乘客和物资现在都拥挤在这艘名为“五月花号”的船上。

A PLYMOUTH WELCOME 普利茅斯的欢迎

It is believed the Pilgrims received a warm welcome in Plymouth. Those that did not live on board the ship probably stayed in,or visited, houses around the quay such as Island House and the Elizabethan House.These buildings still stand today. 据说清教徒在普利茅斯受到了热烈欢迎。那些没有住在船上的人可能住过或参观过码头周围的房子，比如岛屋和伊丽莎白时代的房子。这些建筑至今仍屹立不动。

Elizabethan House 伊丽莎白时代的房子

The Elizabethan House was called London House when it was built in the 1580s,It may have been the Plymouth offices of the London Company of Virginia,Today it is called the Elizabethan House because it was built in the time of Queen Elizabeth I,It is situated on New Street not far from here. 伊丽莎白时代的房子被称为伦敦的房子，它建于1580年代,它可能是伦敦弗吉尼亚公司的普利茅斯的办公室,今天它叫做伊丽莎白时代的房子,因为它是建立在女王伊丽莎白一世的时候,它坐落在新街离这里不远。

Island House 岛屋

Island House dates from between 1572 and 1600 and is reputedly one of the house in which the Pilgrims were entertained prior to their departure for the New World,It is situated a few doors away on The Barbican. 岛屋建于1572年到1600年之间，据说是清教徒们在离开新大陆之前被款待的一所房子，它位于巴比肯的几扇门之外。

Not the First 不是第一个

More than half a century before the Mayflower made a chance call into port. Plymouth had played its part in North American history. Many Plymothians had been instrumental in opening up the New World and the first Englishmen to trade across the Atlantic were the Hawkins family of Plymouth. ，在五月花号进入港口的半个多世纪前，普利茅斯在北美历史上就已扮演了重要角色。许多人在开拓新大陆方面发挥了重要作用，而第一批横渡大西洋的英国人是普利茅斯的霍金斯家族。

A FINAL FAREWELL 最后的告别

The ship-builders in Plymouth said the SPEEDWELL was unfit to cross the Atlantic,the MAYFLOWER would therefore have to travel alone.There was not enough room for everyone on board one ship but, by then, some Pilgrims had already lost heart or were simply too weak and sick to continue the journey by sea. 普利茅斯的造船工程师说， “快速号”不适合横渡大西洋，因此“五月花”号不得不独自旅行。船上没有足够的空间供船上每个人使用，但到那时，一些清教徒已经丧失了信心，或者是因为虚弱而无法继续航行。

LIFE ON-BOARD 船上的生活

There were 102 passengers on-board the Mayflower when it finally set sail for the New World; 41 from the original Leiden community and 61 migrants from England, interested in making their fortune in a new colony. There were a further 20 to 30 crew. “五月花号”上有102名乘客，终于启航驶向新世界;来自最初的莱顿社区和来自英国的61名移民，他们对在一个新殖民地发家很感兴趣。还有20到30名的船员。The Mayflower was around 30m long (about the same as two coaches parked end to end) and with so many people on board, life was cramped and noisy for the Pilgrims. The passengers were berthed on the gun-deck,which acted as living quarters for the families. Cabins were created using blankets to divide the space but this would have provided little privacy. 五月花号大约有30米长(大约相当于两辆停靠在终点的长途客车)，船上有那么多人，生活对清教徒来说是拥挤和嘈杂的。乘客们被停泊在炮甲板上，作为家庭的住所。小屋是用毯子来分隔空间的，但这样做几乎没有隐私。The gun-deck offered very little fresh air or daylight. There were no toilets or bathrooms and there would have been an unbearable smell.People spent as much time on deck as they possibly could. 炮甲板提供的新鲜空气或日光很少。那里没有厕所或浴室，而且还会有一种难以忍受的气味。人们尽可能多地在甲板上呆上一段时间。

LIFE AND DEATH 生命和死亡

Three women were pregnant on board ship when the voyage began. Elizabeth Hopkins gave birth to a baby boy, Oceanus during the journey and Susanna White gave birth whilst the Pilgrims were finding somewhere to settle.He was called Peregrine meaning traveller. 航行开始时，船上有三名妇女怀孕。伊丽莎白·霍普金斯在旅途中生下了一个男婴，苏珊娜·怀特在清教徒们到达后寻找安顿的地方时生下了孩子。他被称为游隼。

But life took its toll too.The passengers were not used to rough weather at sea and suffered badly from sea sickness. Much of the food set aside for the journey had been eaten during the long delays in England There were hardly any fresh vegetables or fresh meat on board and with such a poor diet and cramped living conditions,sickness such as scurvy and consumption must have been common. 但生活也付出了代价。乘客们不习惯海上恶劣的天气和晕船。在英国长时间的延误中，大部分食物都被吃了，因为在英国，几乎没有新鲜的蔬菜和新鲜的肉，而且饮食不佳，生活条件很差，坏血病等是常见的。One of John Carver's servants, John Howland,nearly died when he fell overboard in a storm, He grabbed a rope as he fell and other members of the crew fished him out of the sea with a boathook and he survived.One of the crew members died on the voyage and a servant named William died three days before the Mayflower sighted land,Both men were burled at sea wrapped in sailcloth. 约翰·卡弗的一个仆人，约翰·豪兰德，差点在暴风雨中丧生，他抓住一根绳子，他摔倒了，其他船员用船把他从海里捞了出来，他活了下来。其中一名船员在航行中死亡，一个名叫威廉·巴顿(William )的仆人在五月花号到达陆地的前三天死去，两个人都被裹着帆布葬入大海。

LAND AHOY 登陆

On 9 Novermber 1620,land was finally sighted at Cape Cod,64 days after setting sail from Plymouth.Cape Cod is a long stretch of land that curves out from the coast of Massachusetts into the Atlantic. 1620年11月9日，在从普利茅斯出发后的64天，陆地终于在科德角被发现。科德角是一条从马萨诸塞海岸延伸到大西洋的狭长陆地。The Mayflower initially took a more northerly course than intended, 90 miles away from their proposed destination,pushing them far north of Virginia.After consultation amongst the passengers and Captain Jones, the leaders decided to persevere and sail south to the Hudson River,where they had permission to settle. However, the dangerous shoals nearby prevented them from continuing south and after finally seeing land, the Pilgrims were desperate to set ashore at long last. 五月花号最初采取的路线比预定的路线要偏北，离他们提议的目的地有90英里远，把他们推到维吉尼亚以北。在乘客和琼斯上尉商量之后，领导们决定坚持下去，向南航行到哈德逊河，在那里他们得到了定居的许可。然而，附近的危险的浅滩阻止了他们继续往南走，最后终于看到了陆地，于是他们就迫不及待地要上岸了。The Mayflower sailed round the Cape and two days later anchored in Provincetown Harbour. 五月花号绕过海角，两天后停泊在普罗文斯敦港口。

The Pilgrims had sailed a total of 2800 nautical miles. 这些清教徒总共航行了2800海里（5186公里）。

'In the name of God,Amen. 奉上帝之名，阿门。

We whose names are under-written, the loyal subjects of our dread sovereign Lord,King James, by the grace of God, of Great Britain,France,and Ireland King,Defender of the Faith,etc“

我们的名字签写在下面，我们的君主，国王詹姆斯，上帝的恩典，英国，法国，爱尔兰国王，信仰的捍卫者等等，都是我们的忠实臣民

THE MAYFLOWER COMPACT五月花号公约

Having undertaken,for the glory of God,and advancement of the Christian faith,and honor of our King and Country,a voyage to plant the first colony in the northern parts of Virginia,do by these presents solemnly and mutually. in the presence of God,and one of another,covenant and combine our selves together into a civil body politic, for our better ordering and preservation and futherance of the ends aforesaid, and by virtue hereof to enact, constitute, and frame such just and equal laws,ordinances, acts, constitutions and offices. 为了上帝的荣耀和基督教信仰的进步，为我们的国王和国家的荣誉而进行的一次航行，在弗吉尼亚北部建立了第一个殖民地，这些都是庄严而又相互的。在上帝面前，以及另一个，盟约，将我们的自我结合在一起，成为一个公民的政体，为了我们更好的秩序和保护，以及结束上述的目的，并藉此来制定、构成和框架，这些公正和平等的法律、法令、宪法和公职。from time to time ,as shall be thought most meet and convenient for the general good of the Coloey unto which we promise all due submission and obedience. in witness whereof we have hereunder subscribed our names at Cape Cod,the eleventh of November [ New Style,November 21],in the year of the reign of our sovereign lord .king James. of England, France,and Ireland.the eighteenth. and of Scotland the fifty-fourth. Anno Dom, 1620'

Mayflower Compact从时间到时间，正如我们所认为的，最符合和方便的是，我们承诺所有的服从。兹证明，我们在科德角，11月11日(新历，11月21日)，在我们主的统治年，在此签名。詹姆斯国王。英格兰、法国和爱尔兰。十八。在苏格兰，第五十四。Anno Dom,1620年 五月花号公约

网上下载《五月花号公约》：译文

版本一、

“以上帝的名义，阿门。

吾等签约之人，信仰之捍卫者，蒙上帝恩佑的大不列颠、法兰西及爱尔兰国王詹姆斯陛下的忠顺臣民——为了上帝的荣耀，为了吾王与基督信仰和荣誉的增进，吾等越海扬帆，以在弗吉尼亚北部开拓最初之殖民地，因此在上帝面前共同庄严立誓签约，自愿结为一公民团体。为使上述目的得以顺利进行、维持并发展，亦为将来能随时制定和实施有益于本殖民地总体利益的一应公正和平等法律、法规、条令、宪章与公职，吾等全体保证遵守与服从。

据此于耶稣公元1620年11月11日，吾王英格兰、法兰西、爱尔兰等十八世暨苏格兰第五十四世君主陛下在位之年，在科德角签署姓名如下，以资证明。

版本二、

我们在上帝面前共同立誓签约，自愿结为一民众自治团体。为了使上述目的能得到更好地实施、维护和发展，将来不时依此而制定颁布的被认为是对这个殖民地全体人民都最适合、最方便的法律、法规、条令、宪章和公职，我们都保证遵守和服从。”

——五月花号公约，1620年11月11日

版本三、

“以上帝的名义，阿门。我们，下面的签名人，作为伟大的詹姆斯一世的忠顺臣民，为了给上帝增光，发扬基督教的信仰和我们祖国和君主的荣誉，特着手在弗吉尼亚北部这片新开拓的海岸建立第一个殖民地。我们在上帝的面前，彼此以庄严的面貌出现，现约定将我们全体组成政治社会，以使我们能更好地生存下来并在我们之间创造良好的秩序。为了殖民地的公众利益，我们将根据这项契约颁布我们应当忠实遵守的公正平等的法律、法令和命令，并视需要而任命我们应当服从的行政官员。 ”

THE MAYFLOWER COMPACT 五月花号公约

The Pilgrim leader were aware they were far north of the place the London Virginia Company had granted them to settle.They were also aware that if they settled where there was no lawful colonial authority, they would have no right to elect leaders or make laws. There were tensions and many arguments, but eventually the passengers agreed to stay together and drew up an agreement called The Mayflower Compact, which everyone promised to follow and obey. 这位清教徒的领袖意识到，他们在伦敦维吉尼亚公司给他们定居的地方是很远的地方。他们还意识到，如果他们在没有合法殖民当局的地方定居，他们就没有权利选举领导人或制定法律。有一些紧张和争论，但最终乘客同意在一起，并起草了一份协议，称为“五月花号公约”，每个人都承诺并遵守。

The Mayflower Compact set out the laws for the colony and was signed on 11 November by all 41 male passengers, the head of each household.Today, this is recognised as the first official document of American democracy, but at the time no women were allowed to sign it. “五月花号公约”为殖民地制定了法律，并于11月11日由所有41名男性乘客，每个家庭的首领签署。今天，这被认为是美国民主的第一个正式文件，但在当时没有妇女被允许签署。

ON DRY LAND 在陆地上

The Mayflower Pilgrims finally set down anchor on 11 November 1620, After landing, the men explored the immediate region on foot and by shallop (small sailing boat), whilst the women and children stayed on board ship. The passengers had to remain on the Mayflower for a further month whilst a party explored the coast, searching for a site for their new colony. 1620年11月11日，“五月花”的清教徒们终于登陆，他们在着陆后，用脚和沙普(小帆船)探索了邻近地区，而妇女和儿童则留在船上。乘客们不得不在五月花号上停留了一个月，而另一伙则在海岸上寻找他们的新殖民地。

The shallop excursion provoked a brief attack without casualty, by Native Americans from the village of Nauset. This was in response to explorers who raided the Nauset storage of corn that may have appeared abandoned. 这次的“浅水之旅”引发了一场没有伤亡的短暂袭击，是由来自于一个叫Nauset村庄的土著印第安人发起的。这是为了回应那些曾经突袭该村庄玉米储存地的令人恶心的探险家们。

It was midwinter when they finally found a place to settle, By sheer chance they chose a place already known to English seafarers as Plymouth! 到了仲冬，他们终于找到了一个安定的地方，他们选择了这个已经被英国海员们称为普利茅斯的地方!

Getting through their first winter was going to be the Pilgrims' biggest challenge yet. Although there was a carpenter amongst the passengers and many were used to farming, it was a new land and they had very little food. About half of the settlers died and at one point there were only seven people well enough to look after the sick and dying. 度过他们的第一个冬天，是对清教徒们最大的挑战。虽然在乘客中有一个木匠，许多人习惯于耕作，但这是一块新土地，他们几乎没有食物。大约有一半的移民死亡。因疾病和死亡，有一处只有七口人。

PLYMOUTH OR PATUXET 普利茅斯或PATUXET

The land that the Mayflower pilgrims had decided to colonise was already inhabited. A tribe called the Wampanoag had been living there for over 12000 years. 五月花号的清教徒们决定殖民的土地已经有人居住。一个叫做万帕诺亚格的部落在那里生活了12000多年。

All along the coast of New England there are places with names from the South West of England. The Mayflower Pilgrims chose to settle in a place called Patuxet by the Native Americans. The English sailors knew it as Plymouth. 在新英格兰沿岸，有一些地名来自英格兰西南部。五月花号清教徒选择定居在一个叫做Patuxet的地方。英国水手们称它为普利茅斯。

The Pilgrims believed that God had brought them to the New World so must approve of their efforts to create a settlement in Plymouth. Fore the Wampanoag, the epidemic that wiped out Patuxet had also impacted many other villages with a high fatality rate leaving the tribe weakened. While other European ships had brought misfortune, the Wampanoag most likely considered the arrival of settlers with women and children less threatening. These conditions probably made it easier for the colonists to make their settlement amongest the Wampanoag. 清教徒相信是上帝把他们带到新大陆，所以上帝一定同意他们在普利茅斯建立殖民地的努力。在万帕诺亚格人之前，Patuxet的流行病已消灭了许多的村庄，他们的死亡率很高，导致部落的削弱。尽管其他欧洲船只带来了不幸，但万帕诺亚格人很可能认为移民的到来对妇女和儿童的威胁较小。这些情况可能使殖民者更容易在万帕诺亚格地区定居。

Whilst the Pilgrims saw it as a sign that God was helping them in their work, the Wampanoag embraced them as allies who would strengthen their hold on their territory. 虽然清教徒们认为这是上帝在帮助他们工作的一个告示，但万帕诺亚格人却只把他们作为盟友，加强了对自己领土的控制。

GUIDE AND LOYAL FRIEND 指导和忠实的朋友?

Squanto, whose home the Pilgrims now occupied, stayed with them. He helped them plant and harvest crops, showed them where to plant corn and how to catch herring. He was of great value to them, acting as well as an emissary to the Wampanoag. It was his guidance, and the alliance he helped to forge with Oosameequan, that made the colony's settlement possible. 斯匡托的家现在被清教徒们占领了，他和他们住在一起。他帮助他们种植和收割庄稼，向他们展示如何种植玉米和如何捕捞鲱鱼。他对他们的帮助有很大的价值，他帮助建立了一个与Oosameequan合作的联盟，这使得殖民地的建立成为可能。

FAREWELLS 告别

It was hard work for the Pilgrims, they were short on ration, had no fresh fruit or vegetables and were still weak sfter their long winter of sickness. 对清教徒来说，这是一项艰苦的工作，他们缺乏食物，没有新鲜的水果和蔬菜，而且仍然虚弱地度过漫长的冬天。

However, the weather started to improve and with it the sickness amongst the Pilgrims started to ease. The crew were also beginning to recover and were preparing for their return journey home. it is a sign of the new found confidence of the settlers that not one of them returned with the crew to England. 然而，天气开始好转，随之而来的是清教徒们的疾病开始缓解。船员们也开始恢复，准备回家。这是新发现的定居者信心的一个标志，他们中没有一个人跟着船员回到英国。

The Mayflower finally set sail on 5 April 1621 and arrived back in England in May of that year. There is little known about what happened to her following this voyage, however ,by 1624 she was described as being in ruins and was most likely dismantled and her timbers used as building materials. 五月花号终于在1621年4月5日起航，并于当年5月返回英国。然而，在1624年的一次航行中，几乎不知道五月花号发生了什么？她被描述成废墟，最有可能被拆除，她的木材被用作建筑材料。

THANKSGIVING 感恩

With the help and guidance of Squanto,the Pilgrim colonists learnt how to hunt local animals, gather shellfish and grow corn, 在斯匡托的帮助和指导下，清教徒们学会了如何捕猎当地的动物、收集贝类和种植玉米，By the end of the summer,they had crops to yield, 11 buildings had been finished and health had been restored with good weather and improved diet.The settlers celebrated their first successful harvest with a three-day festival of thanksgiving,attended by Massasoit and his men. 到夏末时，他们已经收获了庄稼，11栋建筑已经完工，由于良好的天气和饮食的改善，人们恢复了健康。这些移民庆祝他们第一次成功的收获，举办了一个由马萨索特和他的人参加的为期三天的感恩节。

Thanksgiving Day is still commemorated by many in America and Canada today as a day of giving thanks for the blessing of the harvest and of the preceding year. However, this was not related to the 1621 Pilgrim's harvest until much later in history,in the 19th century. 今天，在美国和加拿大仍然有许多人纪念感恩节，这一天是为了感谢丰收和前一年的祝福。然而，直到很久以后19世纪，这与1621年的清教徒的收获没有关系。

Many Native Americans do not celebrate Thanksgiving but rather observe the annual holiday as a National Day of Mourning, acknowledging the sacrifices of their ancestors as a result of colonisation. 许多印第安人不庆祝感恩节，而是把每年的这个假日当作全国哀悼日，承认他们的祖先为了殖民而做出的牺牲。

REMEMBERING THE MAYFLOWER PILGRIMS 记住五月花号清教徒

Although the colony lasted only 72 years, the Pilgrims had a lasting impact in history and particularly on America's culture and identity. 虽然只持续了72年,殖民地清教徒们在历史上产生持久的影响,尤其是对美国的文化和身份。

From 1685 onwards, colonial governments were restructured and the Plymouth colony became part of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, one of the United Colonies of New England. However, the memory of the Mayflower Pilgrims has endured. 从1685年起，殖民地政府重组，普利茅斯殖民地成为麻萨诸塞州的一部分，这是新英格兰的联合殖民地之一。然而，对五月花的清教徒的记忆依然存在。

It is not until much later that these early colonists became known as the Pilgrim Fathers and then simply the Pilgrims, the early pioneers of colonisation of North America. Why these colonists were named this and not earlier explorers and settlers, no one can be sure.

Although the term Pilgrim had been used by Bradford in his writings, the 1790s onwards. A hymn composed to commemorate Forefathers Day introduced the term and it became established. 直到很久以后，这些早期的殖民者才被称为清教徒祖先，然后才是清教徒，他们是北美殖民的早期开拓者。为什么这些殖民者被命名为早期开拓者而不是早期的探险者和定居者，没有人可以确定。

虽然“清教徒”一词在作品中被布拉德福德使用，但在17世纪90年代开始。为纪念先祖而创作的一首赞美诗，介绍了这一术语，并建立起来。

'As one small candle may light a thousand,so the light here kindled hath shone unto many, yea in some sort to our whole nation.' WILLIAM BRADFORD “正如一根小蜡烛可以照亮一千个，所以这里的光照耀着许多人，在某种程度上照耀着我们整个国家。“ 威廉·布拉德福德

MAYFLOWER COMPACT 1620 1620年五月花号协议

GOVERNOR BRADFORD'S COPY OF THE MAYLOWER COMPACT

Preserved In his handwriting in his History of Plymouth Plantation,

OVER 300 YEARS AGO!

布拉德州长复制的被保存在普利茅斯种植园的300年以上的手书1620年五月花号协议。300多年前 ！

LIST OF PILGRIMS ABOARD THE MAYFLOWER 五月花号上清教徒名单

共103名

THE MAYFLOWER LEGACY 五月花号遗产

The Mayflower Compact 2020

a covenant between the communities of the United Kingdom, the Netherlands and the United States of America to work in partnership towards a joint 400th commemoration of the sailing of the Mayflower in 1620. 英国、荷兰和美利坚合众国之间的一项盟约，为纪念1620年“五月花号”航行400周年而合作。

We, the advocates of Mayflower 400, whose names are underwritten, undertake in the furtherance of glorious legacy of the Mayflower and the advancement of the principles of Freedom,Personal Liberty and Democracy enshrined therein, to solemnly and mutually covenant and combine ourselves together into a civil body for the better engagement.

preservation,and furtherance of the aforesaid ends. 我们，“五月花号”400年的拥护者，我们的名字被写在下面，以促进“五月花号”的光荣遗产和在其中所载的自由和民主原则的推进，庄严地和相互之间的盟约，并将我们自己结合在一起，成为更好的参与的公民机构。

对上述目的的保护和促进。

In Witness whereof we have hereunto subscribed our names at Plymouth England the twenty first of November,in the Reign of our Sovereign Queen Elizabeth II Anno Domini,2014. 兹证明，我们于2014年11月20日在英国女王伊丽莎白二世在位期间，在英国普利茅斯为我们的名字签名。

　　最早移民美洲的英国人并不是英格兰的清教徒。1585年，英国的第一批殖民者来到弗吉尼亚的罗阿诺克岛（现该岛属于美国的北卡罗来纳州）。但是，这批殖民者没有成功，到1590年，罗阿诺克岛殖民行动宣告失败。

1607年，100多名英国人在弗吉尼亚的詹姆斯河边建立了一个叫詹姆斯顿的城堡（现改名为威廉斯堡），詹姆斯顿成了英国在北美的第一个成功的殖民地。

在早期的美洲殖民者中，第一强大的是西班牙，在16世纪到17世纪，中美洲、南美洲的大部分地区、美国的西部和南部地区都是西班牙的殖民地。

但 现代美国人最崇尚和缅怀的早期殖民者，是1620年乘五月花号船来到美洲，在马萨诸塞的普利茅斯登陆的英格兰清教徒们。

现代美国人认为，美国的崛起、伟大和成功，主要就是发扬光大了《五月花号公约》的精神。因为这份被称为《五月花号公约》的文件，被认为是美国民主的第一个正式文件，之后成了新罕布什尔州、罗德岛州、康涅狄格州、纽约州这些新英格兰地区自治政府的思想基础和法律基础。1775年4月19日“独立第一枪”在马萨诸塞州打响，1787年5月30日开始召开的关乎美国前途和命运的制宪会议，高票当选主席的是来自的马萨诸塞州的49岁的纳撤尼尔.戈勒姆，马萨诸塞州人比其他州的人有更多的“不自由，毋宁死”的精神。多年后，《五月花号公约》的精神，成了美国人民引以为荣、为其自豪的美国精神。

学者认为《五月花号公约》的精神是：1、反对压制迫害，崇尚民主自由；2、不怕艰难险阻，积极开拓进取；3、提倡公正平等，遵循共同法律。

根据《五月花号》博物馆的介绍，1620年11月11日到达美国普利茅斯港的103名人员应该不全是来自英格兰的清教徒们，其中去世了两位成人，增加了三位婴儿，有20-30名的船员，61名来自英国的对新殖民地发家很感兴趣的移民，真正为了“自由”而来的清教徒大概就是最初来自英国斯克比的小村庄，后来逃离到荷兰阿姆斯特丹，再由阿姆斯特丹转到莱顿社区的人们，应该大约只有20多人。

不管人数多少，《五月花号》博物馆的介绍中没有提及到这些人携带了充足的武器和弹药，计划用武力去开疆拓土，杀出一片天地。 介绍中也没有提及到这些人携带了大箱小包的书籍，踌躇满志的去教化愚民，为新世界带去一片曙光。

也许 他们这些人出发前想携带充足的武器和书籍，但毕竟带食物和水更重要。就是想要带也带不了，因为就算在长约30米、宽约8米，大约240平方米的平面上拥挤103人，每人平均不到3个平方米的空间生活66天，也不容易，尽管五月花号木船会有2-3层，但毕竟船上还有锚、工作间、粮食、淡水等仓储不能住人的空间，且吃水载重也是有限的。

下图是2016年10月10日在美国马萨诸塞州普利茅斯港，1620年五月花号船靠岸英格兰清教徒们登陆地，拍摄的五月花号复制船。

根据《五月花号》博物馆的介绍，在着陆美国普利茅斯，准备登陆前，船上的41名男性成员共同签署了《五月花号公约》，这个被认为“充满美国精神”的公约中却没有明确提到他们来此“新世界”

到底有什么计划？

到底有什么目标？

没有看到他们要在若干年后建立一个新的国家的理想，

也没有看到他们要在若干年后取代英国称霸世界的宏伟蓝图。

下图是在博物馆楼上可以俯瞰1620年五月花号船出港纪念石门和繁忙的普利茅斯港。

但自“五月花号”成功登陆以后，从英国陆续来此的英格兰清教徒达到了17800人。其中超过100人是牛津、剑桥大学的毕业生。这一万多人到达新英格兰6年之后，虽然还在为基本的生存而辛苦劳作，却建立起了哈佛神学院【哈佛大学（Harvard University），简称哈佛，坐落于美国马萨诸塞州剑桥市，是一所享誉世界的私立研究型大学，是著名的常春藤盟校成员。这里走出了8位美利坚合众国总统，133位诺贝尔奖得主（世界第一）、18位菲尔兹奖得主（世界第一） 、13位图灵奖得主（世界第四）， 曾在此工作或学习，其在文学、医学、法学、商学等多个领域拥有崇高的学术地位及广泛的影响力，被公认为是当今世界最顶尖的高等教育机构之一 。

　　哈佛同时也是美国本土历史最悠久的高等学府，其诞生于1636年，最早由马萨诸塞州殖民地立法机关创建，初名新市民学院，是为了纪念在成立初期给予学院慷慨支持的约翰·哈佛牧师。学校于1639年3月更名为哈佛学院。1780年，哈佛学院正式改称哈佛大学。】

据历史学家研究，当时的马萨诸塞地区“是世界上教育程度最高的地区”。

1775年7月3日，乔治·华盛顿在哈佛学院所在地坎布里奇就任北美独立战争军队的统帅，他的司令部也一度设在坎布里奇。

1776年美利坚合众国诞生后，哈佛学院为独立战争的主要领导人乔治·华盛顿、托马斯·杰斐逊（《独立宣言》主要起草人，美国第三任总统）、约翰·杰伊（美国联邦最高法院首任首席大法官）、亚历山大·汉密尔顿（首届美国联邦政府财政部长）等人授予荣誉法学博士学位。

由此我们不能否定马萨诸塞对美利坚合众国创建的贡献。

不能否定马萨诸塞的普利茅斯对马萨诸塞建设的贡献。

不能否定来到普利茅斯的清教徒们对自由、平等、民主、公正的追求。因为有《五月花号公约》为证。

　　这是位于英国普利茅斯港、现 悬挂着英国和美国国旗的纪念1620年五月花号船出港的石门，她似乎在永远等待着那些远航游子们的平安回归，也似乎提醒着人们永远不要忘记有人在此离港，航行在茫茫的人类文明的大海之中。

谢谢浏览！有错误之处欢迎指正。

2018年元月6日